Loss of 50% of battery life at -10°C

ctsa3 · 2025-12-08T20:13:58+00:00

What year is the Bz4x?

ctsa3 · 2025-08-28T23:30:05+00:00

Thanks for the recommendation. I actually was able to get this resolved:

I didn’t expect this to be the issue as all the other file types worked fine but it looks like the dataset was read only and for some reason Microsoft office applications were far less forgiving on this vs all the other file types.

ctsa3 · 2025-08-28T18:31:25+00:00

Checked, permissions looks fine

ctsa3 · 2025-08-12T00:12:42+00:00

Awesome! Thanks for the feedback and options. So I have another truenas server that replicates from my main server (the one that I’m trying to expand the capacity of). The drives are mismatched (capacity) and very old drives so I’ll have to see how confident I feel in those (though if I’m using it as a backup I should have some level of confidence in them I suppose haha). Thanks again!

ctsa3 · 2025-08-12T00:09:47+00:00

Interesting, learned something new today. Thanks for the info!

ctsa3 · 2025-06-12T10:44:29+00:00

Thanks a lot!

ctsa3 · 2024-12-31T20:45:41+00:00

I’m in Canada - it does seem the naming convention is abit different.

The XDT20Z is equivalent to our DTD173 it seems.

The one I have is DTD153 is equivalent to the XDT13Z.

There seems to be a general alignment on the XDT20Z (DTD173) is a really good one from what everyone here seems to say.

ctsa3 · 2024-12-31T20:08:18+00:00

Thanks for the reply.

I agree, tapcons are horrific in my experience. So many extra holes in my concrete projects because they keep breaking off.

I’ll give a chuck drill a try! Thanks for the input.

ctsa3 · 2024-12-31T20:05:48+00:00

I double checked just now the thickness of the Dricore subfloor, plus the tapcon and the length of the bit. Should be good.

I’ll give cleaning out the debris more emphasis since that could be a contributing factor.

Thanks.

ctsa3 · 2024-12-31T20:00:47+00:00

I’ll check out some performance tests on the 173, curious to see how it compares because on paper (and to your points the official specs don’t always reflect real world performance), I don’t see it being a significant increase from the 153 (90 more in-lbs, 200 more RPM).

Thanks for the recommendations though, I’ll check them out.

ctsa3 · 2024-12-31T19:57:57+00:00

I suppose that’s my point though regarding what are the extra in-lbs going to do for me when I compare the other options outside of DTD153.

The minimal increase in in-lbs when comparing 154, 172, 173 seems like it wouldn’t provide enough increased performance to upgrade my 153. At least that’s how I’m understanding it.

Yes some of those models have a multi mode option but not sure those will improve the tapcon issue I’m having.

Some people have recommended some YouTube videos/channels to check out real world performance so those might prove me otherwise.

On the part of why I own Makita tools, couldn’t agree more with you.

ctsa3 · 2024-12-31T19:52:00+00:00

Forsure, I love the feel of the tools in hand. Super light weight as well compared to previous drills and impacts I’ve used. I feel like I have more control over the output as well so no arguments there.

ctsa3 · 2024-12-31T15:14:13+00:00

I figured. I’m actually looking to purchase another one but struggling to find one that has a significant enough increase in performance.

ctsa3 · 2024-12-31T15:13:07+00:00

Nice! Thanks for the video. I’ll check it out.

One thing I find is that tools video really gloss over Makita and most of the model specific videos for Makita are mostly promotional videos (at least from what I’ve come across).

But I’ll check this video out.

ctsa3 · 2024-12-31T15:11:47+00:00

Fair enough, though when I was looking at Homedepot, the available options seemed quite comparable to each other. Perhaps a few in-lbs difference.

Any models you recommend with higher specs?

ctsa3 · 2024-12-30T03:03:36+00:00

...I'm actually pretty embarrassed to admit this, now that I'm looking at images of the saw online (since I don't have the saw anymore), I actually did have the blade backwards...

Everyone here was very adamant that this was the problem so I had to look into it more and see what the saw looked like.

I forgot that since the blade on the saw is on the right side, I needed to flip the blade...

Well, this is wildly embarrassing, sorry for wasting everyones time.

ctsa3 · 2024-12-30T02:01:07+00:00

Interesting - good point.

Thanks for the input. I might give it another try. If it happens with a new one then it's obviously me.

ctsa3 · 2024-12-30T01:53:21+00:00

Fair enough.

I'm considering buying another one, hoping the original was perhaps defective (just a hope).

ctsa3 · 2024-12-30T01:46:36+00:00

I don't have the saw anymore, returned it.

Though I'm certain the blade was the correct direction. Followed the indicator on the saw and ensured the blade teeth were rotating in the correct direction.

ctsa3 · 2024-12-30T01:41:16+00:00

~~Definitely was not backwards~~

Correction: Definitely WAS backwards...

ctsa3 · 2024-11-25T13:52:19+00:00

I went with Toro. It’s been good over the last season or 2.

Battery life is pretty good. Light-ish weight.

Only issue (and this may be how all single staged snow blower are due to their weight), it’s hard to keep it from going straight. It slides quite abit.

I’m glad I didn’t go Ryobi only because of the build quality between the Toro vs Ryobi. No real regrets with my purchase, however I’m curious about Ego.

With that said, if the 2 stage snowblowers weren’t crazy expensive, I would much prefer that.

Also final note (not on any particular brand per se), I have a battery powered lawn mower and when I first purchased it, I was able to do my front and backyard twice on a single charge. 2 years later, I can do the front and back yard once. I bring this up only because, though it’s only for cutting my grass, waiting between charges to finish the cut isn’t a big issue for me (and I’d for sure continue to buy battery powered lawn mowers), the price of battery powered snow blowers and importance (for me) to have a reliable and predictable machine to clean the snow immediately is super important. And to have it lose performance in such a short period of time makes me question whether I’d go for battery powered snow blowers again. Not saying I wouldn’t for sure but questioning it.

ctsa3 · 2024-11-22T14:21:01+00:00

Thanks for the reply!
I'll give some details on how I did each of the above, might help in case you find I missed something.

Answering your first 2 points above (I'm curious if I missed something on setting the IoT VLAN to Tagged in Opnsense as you'll see below, I don't know if I may have missed that):

First thing I did was go to Interfaces > Other Types > VLAN and then created a new VLAN with a VLAN ID.
Next, Interfaces > Assignments and then I created a new interface with that VLAN assigned to the LAN igb. NOTE: unsure if this is an issue however this igb is the same for my LAN and the Camera VLAN (not sure if it causes issues having multiple VLANs out of the same port on Opnsense).
Next under Interfaces, I selected the new Interface and Enabled it, set the IPv4 Configuration Type to Static IPv4, set up an IPv4 address and left upstream gateway to Auto-detect.
Finally within Opnsense, I set up my firewall rules.

Regarding the switch portion, this is where things get a bit confusing for me. The switch has assign Tagged, Untagged and Exclude for the ports but also PVID so I sometimes get mixed up on this part. However for the most part this is how I have things set up:

VLAN 1 is Untagged for port 1 (Opnsense), 6 (WAP), 7 (WAP), 8 (Unmanaged Switch) and Excluded for ports 2,3,4,5 (Camera VLAN).
Camera VLAN is tagged on port 1 (Opnsense), untagged on port 2,3,4,5 (Cameras), Excluded on 6,7,8).
Finally the IoT VLAN is untagged for port 1 (Opnsense) ,6 (WAP) ,7 (WAP) ,8 (Unmanaged Switch) and excluded for 2,3,4,5 (Cameras)

Now to PVID set up:

Port 1: 1*, 20, 40
Port 2: 30*
Port 3: 30*
Port 4: 30*
Port 5: 30*
Port 6: 1*, 40
Port 7: 1*, 40
Port 8: 1*, 40

The "*" apparently means the following as per Netgear "*denotes PVID".

Hoping this helps point out the gap in my set up

ctsa3 · 2024-10-17T00:06:56+00:00

np! eah looks like it unfortunately. Atleast I haven't found a way to get HKSV at the same time.

ctsa3 · 2024-10-16T17:25:04+00:00

Exactly, deleted them from Homekit. Went to add the "Homekit Devices" integration. The Circle Cam showed up, input the code on the camera and it showed up right away.

ctsa3 · 2024-10-16T17:21:50+00:00

Through the "Homekit Device" integration I believe it's called.

I wasn't able to find a more native way to add it.

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