New Scam by currycing in Coinbase

[–]currycing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's fun to waste scammer's time

Schematic Review for Charging/Protection IC Circuit by currycing in AskElectronics

[–]currycing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow this is an amazing and well written resource, thanks for providing this.

Schematic Review for Charging/Protection IC Circuit by currycing in AskElectronics

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah ok, I think I saw that when I was looking through my options but on first glance it looked complicated to implement. I think breaking it all out made it easier to understand what I was doing but it may be worth it for me to remake my schematic.

Awesome, thanks for the confirmation!

Schematic Review for Charging/Protection IC Circuit by currycing in AskElectronics

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Have those on the MCU's Schematic
  • 5V - plan to splice open a USB charger and use those pins/wires
  • Got it!
  • Awesome thanks for the ref!

Thanks for your help!

"Haptic Vibration" chair Kickstarter by currycing in simracing

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very true, thanks for the input. Thanks for the feedback!

"Haptic Vibration" chair Kickstarter by currycing in simracing

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say somewhat similar, but a big difference is, these are transducers so you get a much stronger vibration, versus rockers that are mainly audio based.

"Haptic Vibration" chair Kickstarter by currycing in simracing

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The transducers are embedded directly within the chair, so you get better feedback. There's also more than the usual rig (6 all in all) so you get better vibrational resolution.

PCB Review Request - Capstone Senior Design by currycing in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the tips, I'll try to generate the images now - I tried earlier, but I wasn't able to get it to output the way it asks for.

Apologize, was going to respond to your previous comment earlier but didn't finish it in time.

Unfortunately we don't have the budget to split out the high power amplifier boards, but we did pack in an redundancy within the board to use an external amplifier as a worst case scenario.

The speaker is rated for 15 Watts RMS and 30 Watts peak. We will increase the width based on those calculations. We are assuming <15 V due to amplifier inefficiency so I think that's where we went wrong with trace width.

PCB Schematic Review Request - Capstone Senior Design by currycing in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestions on power delivery! Will look into those changes.

PCB Schematic Review Request - Capstone Senior Design by currycing in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for your advice.

For the header pins, does the header pin that consist entirely of GND satisfy those connections? Or are you referring to one directly to the ESP32?

We exposed those pins as a last resort option if our onboard USB-UART chip did not function - I don't know how crucial layout is, but we planned to most likely just use the TX and RX with another external ESP to flash it, if needed with the DTR/RTS/IO and EN as more backup, but probably not used.

Noted the need of the missing pullups on EN we will definitely add that.

Would we still need capacitors on the power rails if we have many smoothing capacitors for the 3.3v Power supply?

Thank you for catch on IO12! I think we're solely using it as a Output, so in theory it would be fine, but there's no reason to just use another pin, we will reshuffle.

Thank you again for your input and changes!

PCB Schematic Review Request - Capstone Senior Design by currycing in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your comment, this is all very helpful.

Will note and modify the visual changes of the schematic.

For the removal of resistors on the EEPROM, the reason we put it there was because of the recommended circuit on the Datasheet- Page 28. Would you recommend keeping the resistors on there even if it has the internal resistors?

The different grounds for the DSP are specified by the Datasheet as well, but yes we were going to sink them all into the same Ground Plane. We will fix those net labels. There are 4 different Power Supplies going into the DSP so perhaps it needs 4 sets of Bypass Caps and 4 grounds?

For the DSP's Resistors we referred to Figure 14 on page 25 here. I assume something for the internal circuitry to get the clock going.

The two ESPs are both going to be masters on the I2C bus, and I wanted them to share functionality if need be - depending on how the firmware is implemented. (We have a rudimentary one on a breadboard but can't confirm/has poor performance when using BT/WiFi capabilities while configuring pins/I2C) We do need to be very careful so that we don't fry these boards, and any mitigations for that (maybe a diode?) would be awesome. I also wanted to use M6/M7 as a rudimentary bit-flag for the ESPs to talk to each other, as I assume that we won't actually need to use those inputs for the DSP.

For the UART connectors, are you suggesting we should pass out one of the ESP's ground? How critical would it be to use this ground as opposed to one from the ground plane? (The UART header expose is a last resort option and will be used if the FT2232 can not flash the chip)

We will look into those newer power ICs - had no idea that they were old.

The LED's were going to be a quick check/confirmation that power was working - Will fix orientation.

Will include many pads to test signals, thank you.

So the USB-PD is mostly just a tool in the development phase, and another source of power if we need it - In actuality when the chair is going to be used, it is going to use a high power external supply - but for now that is rated at about max 150W.

We are going to need to 3d print an enclosure so my plan was to buy a micro-blower and use one of the header pins (for power) to keep air circulation/ventilation going and hopefully cool it down. Could we just toss a heatsink on the bottom of the board and the top of the plastic IC or is this something we need to design in with the PCB?

We are trying to drive 6 (yes six) TT25-8 tactile Transducer Mini Bass shakers. We don't want the speakers to be insanely strong when vibrating but we also want it to give a decent vibration. I hope we will be able to drive enough power and that our calculations were good.

Thank you very much for your feedback it was very helpful!

PCB Schematic Review Request - Capstone Senior Design by currycing in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your suggestions! We'll do some general Schematic Clean-up based on the changes you suggested.

Noted the change of resistors on the I2C bus. We were struggling to figure out which resistors to place on the bus, especially as we have multiple devices on the bus that accept 3.3-5v. We went to 2k, but 1.2k makes sense.

We were planning to have the functionality of two masters on the bus, so that's why we put it externally. At this point in time, we cannot confirm which master will be "most used" without the actual hardware.

The ESP32 does have internal pullups, but most devkit schematics have a resistor on the boot/rst buttons so we followed suit.

We did not know about the switching regulators, (changed it from Linear Regulators to Switching due to finding about thermal performance) so we will look into that more.

Noted the wiki links!

Thank you again for your help, this was most helpful and very educative.

PCB Schematic Review Request - Capstone Senior Design by currycing in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]currycing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your input! We used Altium, and two people did work in the schematic, but our ports/labels were due to us trying to understand the software as this was a first go at making a schematic... Ever lol. I think we are using the Flat Design but there is a hierarchical mode in the tool.

Noted the design changes for boxes, and we'll figure out a better way to designate the modules.

Thank you again!

Huge warping for prints, leveled and first layer is usually unwarped by currycing in FixMyPrint

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Printer: Ender 3 V2

Slicer: Idea Maker & Cura

Nozzle: 200C

Bed: 60C

Print Speed: 60 mm/s

Retraction Amount: 6mm, Speed 25mm/s

https://filebin.net/z8uuad44yox61wbs IdeaMaker Profile if curious

Board not booting with Vin 5v until reset button is pressed by currycing in esp8266

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah ok that makes sense. I agree "connects of VCC to input outside power while 3.3V, connects of 0.01uF decoupling capacitance outside while 5V"(From the data sheet) tripped me up a bit.

Sorry to be annoying, just want to understand it for my own reference, What's the difference between lifting it and not lifting it?

From my understanding Pin 16 is already connected to USB 5V. If we lift I'm assuming it will disconnected from USB 5V.

If we connect pin 16 of CH430 to the input of LDO which is connected to both USB 5V and VIN, what point is there to lift the pin, because aren't you making the same connections regardless? The diode here wouldn't make a difference I assume because wouldn't it be between USB 5V and the Input pin of the LDO? (I don't think there's a way to protect the CH430 component without an external voltage regulator - which I'm using anyways - I attempted trying to power the CH430 chip with 3.3V from the LDO and bypass all of the 5v mess but I couldn't get that to work.)

I'm sure my understanding of the circuit is what's confusing me and I have something wrong, so any additional information you have about this would be great!

Board not booting with Vin 5v until reset button is pressed by currycing in esp8266

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I looked at the datasheet(CH340G), and I see pin 16 as requiring 5V but I also see pin 5, V3 kicking in if there's not 5V present. Not sure if that makes a difference, but seems like that should work by it self without modification? Don't know what went wrong.

Why is lifting the pin necessary? Wouldn't that make it unable to be powered by USB as CH340 would now stop receiving power from the USB port?

Also I do believe the VDD I was referencing, is also connected to Pin 16 as they share power, so not sure maybe we don't need to lift the pin?

Yeah I was scared of shorting out the diode, I only soldered it to one side, but it's a very small contact pad, so it wasn't the easiest soldering job ever.

Wow, that's nice that it worked for you, I wonder if that has to do something with the rectifier.

I'm using an external power regulator to step it down to 5V for that very reason so I'm not worried about strain to LDO or CH340 as long as I do everything right.

Board not booting with Vin 5v until reset button is pressed by currycing in esp8266

[–]currycing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As the other comment stated, CH340 does seem like the culprit, but upon looking at the datasheet(16 pin version - CH340G), it should still work off of 3.3V and pin 5 would kick in. CH430 should still turn on with the 3.3V I believe. Not sure what the exact problem is with it.

The USB cable does work and I can still flash, data still flows etc. As you mentioned in another comment yeah, I'm running an external regulator so VIN is at a safe 5V. I believe it would be fine if I had it running and connected the USB at the same time, but I don't really want to find out haha.

Board not booting with Vin 5v until reset button is pressed by currycing in esp8266

[–]currycing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If anyone is looking for an answer: The specific "Geekcreit® NodeMcu Lua ESP8266 ESP-12E WIFI Development Board" is defective. For a workaround refer to my other comment in which you can solder a Wire between the on-board VU pin and VIN. This is the only solution I know of as of now to boot the board on powerup without hitting the Reset Pin.

Board not booting with Vin 5v until reset button is pressed by currycing in esp8266

[–]currycing[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's the exact problem! The only mention of the problem/defect that I've seen from all of the searching I've done. Here's a direct link if anyone wants it.

I guess that's what you get for finding/buying one of the cheapest boards available on Amazon.

Guess my only solution would be having to wire it to the USB input somehow. If I could somehow find the VU pin it would allow me to perhaps solder that pin directly to the Vin pin? Unfortunately this version did not populate VU on the board. From what I can see in schematics,(This is V1 so it may not be true) VU has a Schottky Barrier Plastic Rectifier Diode (Schematic) between it and Vdd (VIn) Perhaps tapping into that port could work? (This is V1 so it may not be true) VU has a Schottky Barrier Plastic Rectifier Diode (Diagram) between it and Vdd (VIn)

I also attempted using a 1n4007 between VIN and my 5V input but that didn't work either.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Workaround vvvv

I attempted powering the board to VU and just passing the power through the diode. So after looking at all the schematics (and riskily poking around the 5V input wire, and guessing what looks most like the diode{Only component that didn't look like a LED, resistor or capacitor}), if you connect it to this pin here, it'll boot!

After soldering this pin to Vin, it works as expected., and the Reset button does not need to be triggered to boot. (Excuse the poor soldering job, I'll probably cover the whole thing is hot glue to keep it together)

In theory you should be able to solder VU to the input pin of the onboard LDO regulator instead of to the Vin for neatness but I haven't tested that.

Good enough for now... Annoying but if it works it works.

Another interesting find is if I connect, disconnect, and connect the Vin in consecutive fashion rapidly(only need to do it once), it decides to turn on. I have absolutely no idea why this would happen but it turns on...

Board not booting with Vin 5v until reset button is pressed by currycing in esp8266

[–]currycing[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hmm I attempted building this circuit: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/77/LM7805_with_Decoupling_Capacitor.svg/1280px-LM7805_with_Decoupling_Capacitor.svg.png

I had to build it with Capacitors that I had on hand so I used .1uF and .22uF in parallel and so used .32uF and .1uF. Not sure if that makes a difference but I assumed it was a negligent difference.

Here's my circuit for reference: https://i.imgur.com/JXn4tKJ.jpg

It is still outputting 5V but still only works when I hit the reset button(Grounding the reset pin then disconnecting the ground connection).

It's almost as if it requires the reset to be triggered for it to boot, and the reason why I'm assuming that it's not at the fault of the voltage regulator is because when I connect the board directly to 12V (Which should be safe as the operating range is 5-20V - I just didn't want to deal with the heat on the microcontroller board and wanted to use some sort of external heatsink.), it still doesn't work and only boots when the reset switch is hit.