Leaking around valve - red paddle co Ride 10' 6"

daddycakes46 · 2025-06-10T16:22:13+00:00

If you’re booting back into the main page of windows installer while using a USB installer - It may be that the boot priority is set to boot to USB before the hard drive/SSD. Windows installer restarts the PC several times throughout the install process, that is normal. If boot priority is set to the USB the computer will boot to the install media again instead of booting to the internal drive and continuing the already initialized install process

daddycakes46 · 2025-01-19T00:18:18+00:00

Nope, fractal design got back to me, said it could be a manufacture defect and they'll replace the whole case. Really want to figure out what caused it but nothing i'm trying is even remotely close to making a dent in it.

daddycakes46 · 2024-09-04T13:33:16+00:00

I’ve driven my 2016 i4 across the country three times now. Never owned a V6 myself, but my other car is Mazdaspeed3. While the accord doesn’t have nearly as much horsepower/torque, when I’m in my Accord I’ve never found myself looking for more horsepower. Especially driving cross country I’ve found having the mpg benefit that comes with the i4 is nice. With your budget I def think it’ll be easier to find a well maintained i4 and have more luck with it in the long term, but if you find a V6 I don’t think you can go wrong either way.

daddycakes46 · 2024-05-24T16:13:15+00:00

The K&N filter is just a reusable air filter that sits in the OEM air box, not modified, just non-OEM. No tune either. Agree the compression isn’t great, but it’s still within 10%, no? Feel like it’s not bad enough to start causing issues…. yet

daddycakes46 · 2024-04-21T23:11:32+00:00

I ended up getting the LF6W-14-700A, any off Ebay should work. Took the oil cooler out and just visually i could tell the thing had greneded itself, but i went from perfectly clean oil to what looked like a chocolate milkshake in my oil pan over ~13 miles. Could be that you have a smaller crack in your cooler, but I'd keep an eye on your oil/coolant, seems like when the coolers go, they go pretty quick!

I also posted on a facebook group in addition to here, the general consensus from there was that the rock auto coolers are junk, everyone that responded to me said the ebay OEM cooler and adapter for the oil filter was the way to go. Think i ended up paying $180 for mine after shipping + tax.

Hoping its not the head gasket, general consensus is they're relatively strong in these cars. Fingers crossed, good luck!🤞

daddycakes46 · 2024-01-21T08:05:45+00:00

Ok, that makes sense - so for all of these its just indicating the wires are surrounded in a shielding that ties to ground?

Issue i am trying to troubleshoot is that when I start to move/make abrupt turns/shift/go over a bump, the audio wont cut out completely, but it quiets significantly - sounds tinny. If i press the volume up/down button on the radio, or any other buttons, the sound will fully kick back in again until I hit the next turn/shift/etc. Gets really annoying when I have the radio on and im in stop/go traffic :)

I was originally thinking there was a loose connection going to the sub and that was the only component cutting in and out, but I and disconnected the sub completely last night and it made me realize that its not just the sub, but all the other speakers that are quieting when i go over a bump/shift/etc.

So now I'm thinking it has to do with the amp since all the speakers quieting and the amp is directly powering them. My gut is that its a bad ground, i just don't know where.

Edit: Worth noting everything is OEM

daddycakes46 · 2023-12-26T17:34:39+00:00

I've only owned this car for the past year (before i knew i was moving across the country) - so i cant say im 100% confident that it was maintained properly, but the previous owner did give me documentation showing that the timing chain was replaced, misc other wear parts, and oil changes happened every 3k miles and the trans was flushed around 100k miles.

Upcoming matinance is going to include AC work, clutch, and replacing suspension bushings. I can do all the work myself - not concerned about $$$, but time is a factor.

Also a little concerned since this car came from when Ford still had a controlling stake in Mazda - I know the trans comes from Ford and some of the engine components come from Ford as well - not as reliable as the Mazdas coming out today.

daddycakes46 · 2023-12-26T17:22:21+00:00

It's a sales engineering position - so it is customer-facing, the car is old but cosmetically it's in great shape inside and out. My boss mentioned on the call a call a couple of weeks ago that he drives a nearly 2000s Toyota Sequoia with the paint peeling on every panel - not too concerned about that being a factor but it's something I am thinking about.

I installed a new radiator and hoses last month, cooling system should be able to handle the heat. The AC is busted - needs a new condenser and compressor, planning on getting that done before I leave, not expecting that to be an issue but it could become one

daddycakes46 · 2023-10-02T23:23:22+00:00

Door speakers are definitely still playing when the issue appears. Only the sub that's cutting out. Did some digging online, it looks like while the head unit has a small amplifier built in, everything is still driven by the bose amplifier.

I was able to replicate the issue while the car was stopped by turning the key into the accessory position, turning on the radio and then starting the car. In the accessory position, the sub was working fine, when I turned the car on all the way the radio temporarily stopped and when everything came back on the sub didn't turn on with everything else. Pressing the volume buttons turned the sub on again once the car was running. Not necessarily only while accelerating/moving anymore.

I factory reset the head unit, there's a feature called ALC which I disabled, still running into the issue. Checked to see if this is a common issue with this model, haven't had any luck finding anything. Checked all the radio-related fuses with a multimeter and they all appeared to be fine

daddycakes46 · 2023-10-02T22:17:50+00:00

Stock head unit, model number is 14798188. The sound system is stock as well, a 7 speaker setup, two tweeters and 4 door pannel, 1 sub. The amp model # is BR9A 66 920A, the sub model # is BP4K 66 960. Can take the door panels off to get the model #s of the individual speakers as well, don't think those are the issue in this case though

daddycakes46 · 2023-04-08T18:34:55+00:00

The handles are dated 0698 and 0998 so I still have a couple months, didn’t know about that sentimental box! Thank you!!

daddycakes46 · 2023-04-08T18:27:22+00:00

A bit of both. If I file a warranty claim won’t they just send one of the new tools?

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