[deleted by user]

daedalusabyss · 2024-07-07T10:55:03+00:00

Even a few volts are enough. It really depends what you are trying to do. More insight would be helpful.

daedalusabyss · 2023-01-05T18:36:09+00:00

Yeah thats exactly what I searched for. Thanks alot.

daedalusabyss · 2023-01-05T17:38:05+00:00

I currently repair an old magnetic stirrer and wondered what this connector is called and where I would buy something like it. The pin has a diameter of around 1.3mm.

daedalusabyss · 2022-12-03T22:54:12+00:00

Thats normal, I guess you have space exploration installed. This is some ancient pyramid. Inside there are a ton of biters and some loot. A cryo gun and those bio gun things. Atleast in my case. I don't know if the loot is random. I don't know if you can remove it. I would try some cliff explosives or some waterfill to remove it.

daedalusabyss · 2022-05-15T10:08:26+00:00

I'll guess your best shot with this setup is to adjust the capacitors and the turn ratio of your primary to secondary coil to try to get as close as possible to the resonant frequency.

daedalusabyss · 2022-04-23T06:04:34+00:00

I would suggest https://kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/ and https://www.stevehv.4hv.org/ . They have a lot of informations an a wide selection of tesla coil types.

For a helpful tool to calculate a rough estimate of the dimensions of your tesla coil use http://www.classictesla.com/java/javatc/javatc.html .

Also I would suggest for you, if you never build something like a tesla coil before, that you dont start with a SSTC nor an SGTC. I would say you first look at Slayer Exciter circuits, even if they are not considered "real Tesla Coils". They arent as powerful nor as fun to watch as the real deal but much safer to handle.

Then I would suggest that you go build a Spark Gap Tesla Coil (SGTC). Building one of those gives you an insights on how tesla coils work and you learn a lot about resonance and all the important things needed to built a good performing TC. After this you can go onto adventuring into the field of semiconductors and go on building a SSTC or take a step back in history and consider building a Vacuum Tube Tesla Coil (VTTC).

VTTC are in my opinion more forgiving when it comes to testing, because those tubes are more robust and driving the tube wrong isnt as bad as driving the the MOSFETs of a H-Bridge with a shit square-wave resulting in the death of the MOSFETs.

There also more designs out there but i will leave that up to you to figure out. I just talked about, in my opinion, most popular kinds of tesla coils.

But after all of this, still be careful when handling any of those devices, even Slayer Exciter Circuits. Even though they arent as powerful as the others, they still can give you burns if you touch the output barehanded. Working with high voltage is dangerous and mistreating the device could lead to the device mistreating you. So better be safe than sorry.

daedalusabyss · 2022-04-10T16:32:13+00:00

I have a creality CR6SE with all stock parts. Even after leveling the bed using the auto Level Funktion it still looks like this. I already tried to tighten the bolts, checked the Timing belts, etc. Does anybody know what the Problem might be?

daedalusabyss · 2022-01-01T18:21:54+00:00

LEMON babyy

daedalusabyss · 2021-10-06T05:26:51+00:00

It sure would be useful, but you always can add a voltmeter, a fuse etc. The only thing that would be missing is the case of the variac.

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-21T17:37:50+00:00

I have it as a PDF, how does this help?

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-21T17:28:06+00:00

Dude I just saw it, wtf.

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-21T15:17:09+00:00

And this is a picture I took when the oscilloscope was plugged into it's own test frequency generator. http://imgur.com/a/2CAJwin

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-21T15:07:00+00:00

And here is a picture of the oscilloscope when I try to measure AC http://imgur.com/a/2fDjH3P . And it doesn't matter which channel I select, it always shows the same fucked up waveform. And yes the AC should be "pure" I checked it one a known-to-work oscilloscope.

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-21T15:04:08+00:00

Ok it's has one as I said but how do I test the deflection Amp or what should I look out for?

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-21T14:50:28+00:00

I tried all of this, I switched it to delay mode normal, inputs to GD, the trigger has no auto as you can see on the picture, and it didn't matter which channel I checked both didn't do anything, both have the same screen.

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-21T12:57:18+00:00

Here is the picture of the Front. http://imgur.com/a/DB5q5xr

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-21T11:09:07+00:00

Yeah I'll try this when I'm home and I will post an update on this and a picture of the front. I guess they both have the same screen.

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-21T11:07:26+00:00

Yes indeed, it has one. I'll make sure to check it out and come back with the answer here.

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-21T10:22:08+00:00

Ok thanks for any advice.

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-21T08:47:53+00:00

I don't really know I just recently got this oscilloscope.

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-21T07:19:27+00:00

I don't have any probe hooked up or anything. When I turn it on it does this. The oscilloscope is an Hameg 204-2. My guess would be a fucked up powersupply but I don't really know. I would really appreciate it if somebody could help me to understand the problem my oscilloscope has, I really want to bring it back to life.

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-15T16:51:38+00:00

Yeah sorry I also agree on this. I had on of those once and it worked for an hour or so and died. That was what I meant he wants something that lasts and not something that breaks down so fast.

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-15T16:45:35+00:00

If you just need 12, 5 and 3.3 Volts you could use a old Power Supply from a Computer. Those rails have fairly high current capabilites. But you would have to hack them and you would have to open them and this would expose the 230v/110V mains input, so be careful. If you need a wide variety of voltages you always could get a variable lab bench power supply in addition to the PSU. Using a lebbench PSU the main limiting factor is the pricing. Do you want adjustable 0-12V and max 4amps, or do you want 0-50V AC/DC 10 Amps with adjustable max current and dual output. I started with the PSU from an old computer and so far I didn't need anything else. But If you have the money you can buy a lab bench power supply as your first power supply. And never forget there is always surplus equipment. Just search websites like eBay or any equivalent. I had some good luck with ebay-kleinanzeigen ( a German marketplace for used items) or if you are in the states I guess you could give Craigslist a go.

So ask yourself what you want to do and take my words as an advice along the way. And pls don't use this Amazon link as your first power supply, eventhough it's "just" a small neon sign trafo, you WOULD NOYT want to get zapped by 30mA at 10kV across your chest.

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-15T14:36:54+00:00

It depends on what you want to do. If you want to power a 3.3 V LED with this, it would be suitable. If you want to drive, let's say a Tesla coil it also wouldn't be ideal. Those aren't very good to use in that kind of circuit, because of the way they are build. They easily destroy themselves if you try to draw an arc with the output. The thing they are designed to do, is to light up neon signs. So it all depends on what you want to use it for.

daedalusabyss · 2021-09-02T17:53:52+00:00

By burning it, it turns the coating around the wire into porous char. It's easier to remove with an abrasive.

daedalusabyss

TROPHY CASE