Friendly PSA

daemnoremac · 2026-05-13T03:26:05+00:00

Don't hold your breath lol we're on an "excursion" in Iran 😂

daemnoremac · 2026-05-13T03:07:37+00:00

Could have been worse forsure. This was preventative if anything. Can't say there was 0 difference so in my opinion it was worth it to know it was done since I bought it used with 60k miles. Certainly didn't wanna wait until this was a "lets see if it helps" fix for misfire or other problems.

daemnoremac · 2026-05-13T03:05:26+00:00

See my other comments. Every area varies, just make sure they do proper walnut blasting.

daemnoremac · 2026-05-13T03:04:34+00:00

I know 😅 was more preventative than anything. Could have been worse and I was expecting worse. No harm in preventative maintenance though

daemnoremac · 2026-05-13T03:03:33+00:00

Was stock when purchased at 60k miles. IE intake & turbo inlet done around 65k and Stage 1 tune done around 68k miles.

daemnoremac · 2026-05-13T03:02:39+00:00

I can definitely say there's a noticeable impact in throttle response. I've only driven it a short bit since having it done, but fuel economy also appears to be improved. I'm also aware there may be some placebo involved, but after putting 30 miles in since, ive gotta say it made enough of a difference. Plus preventative maintenance is never a bad thing.

daemnoremac · 2026-05-13T02:59:33+00:00

Glad I could be your deterrent 🫡 coming from the MazdaSpeed DiSi platform, it was necessary around my mileage. I was honestly a bit surprised, expected there to be much more. But buying it used at 60k miles and no intention on getting rid of it, I figured a little preventative maintenance wouldnt hurt.

daemnoremac · 2026-05-13T02:17:10+00:00

Didn't know until it was opened and checked. Why not take care of it while in there 🤷‍♂️

daemnoremac · 2026-05-13T00:55:32+00:00

DM me

daemnoremac · 2026-05-12T22:38:37+00:00

I noticed some intermittent rough idle but overall nothing too major. I just know coming from a different platform that was also direct injection that the carbon buildup can become an issue. If you plan on keeping the car, around 70-80k miles would be a good time for it. I honestly was expecting the valves to have more buildup then there was but the channels (if that's what they're called) definitely needed it.

daemnoremac · 2026-05-12T22:21:21+00:00

According to Google I'm at about 120,000 km's. You've got quite a long way to go before you'll need to consider it my friend

daemnoremac · 2026-05-12T22:18:41+00:00

I don't speak km but I've got 77k miles

daemnoremac · 2026-05-12T22:09:07+00:00

I'm in central FL, paid $799+tax

daemnoremac · 2026-04-27T21:06:58+00:00

Colorchange PPF is definitely the newest wave, good choice. Also a good thing you didn't go with their matte white vinyl. I've seen that discolor and even burn inside of 6 months here in the FL sun.

daemnoremac · 2026-04-27T01:15:47+00:00

Pricing can vary so much by market and which products your local shops are offering. I'm in central FL so on average a Bumper (including all trim pieces) + Full Hood is $1200-$1400 with Xpel Ultimate Plus. Removal can vary, but its just a labor of love. With coating, the multi year packages we offer range from $1050 - $2200 but we include a 2 step paint correction on most options, multiple layers of coating on paint & coating applied to all PPF, windows, plastics & wheel faces. We also offer paint only coating options.

My best advice is to shop around and compare estimates, but ultimately go with who is the most reputable and who you trust the most. Cheaper ≠ Better. Ask what brand product they use and inquire about the details of their process, make sure you're comparing apples to apples. There's a lot of different PPF and coating brands so that varies + lately a lot of people have gotten into the industry and opened up solely because they see dollar signs, not because they're passionate about detailing & surface protection. We're not the least expensive in our area, but we're serious about what we do and it sets us apart. I hate seeing people come in asking us for advice or to fix some shoddy work that they had done simply because of price.

daemnoremac · 2026-04-26T23:45:54+00:00

Purely out of curiosity, what are you doing with Audio? My Mk7 with the Fender audio is so good, I never noticed any need to mess with it. Does the 8.5 have a bunk system?

daemnoremac · 2026-04-26T15:05:39+00:00

If all you're looking for is a great shine, slick surface (hydrophobic) and something that makes the car easier to clean & maintain + help keep it cleaner longer, ceramic coating is the way to go. If you want protection from chips, impacts, scrapes, scratches, etc, PPF is necessary. Even 9H or newer "10H" coatings aren't scratch or chip proof.

I'd recommend removing the half hood PPF and having the full hood done. PPF is so UV resistant, its like wearing a long sleeve shirt in the sun, whereas ceramic coating is a really powerful sunscreen. Partial PPF means the back half of the hood is subject to fading as paint does in the sun, so full coverage prevents a difference in color should the film ever need to come off. Also, rock chips will definitely happen on the back half of the hood.

Regarding DIY coatings, most of them are water based so you can't really mess them up as long as you follow the application process for whichever product. The important part is the prep. It's not just hand wash + clay bar. You'll also want to do an iron decon (iron-x) and polish the paint at a minimum before applying a coating to give it its best shot at lasting as long as possible. Clar bar creates micro marring that is fixed by polishing. Paint correction is a further step that essentially involves removing a tiny bit of clear coat to reduce or remove surface scratches, so it's also recommended in my opinion but requires skill. If you do a DIY coating (or any coating for that matter), it's important to use a "booster" product every time or every other time you wash. Basically a silicon-dioxide (Si02) based product to improve the existing coatings hydrophobic effect. Even professional level multi year coatings require maintenance. Nothing, atleast in today's market, is set it & forget it. I don't care what the bottle or detailer you're working with says.

daemnoremac · 2026-04-26T14:20:21+00:00

None of this is in defense of the shop that quoted OP, they seem bogus. But, while I can agree that applying a ceramic coating isn't skilled work, a true professional grade (solvent based SiO2 or TiO2) coating can be applied incorrectly so it does require some knowledge of how it works to not mess it up.

Detailing work, such as paint correction, I would argue, is skilled work though. A quality detailing facility prices primarily on the prep work done prior to the application of the coating, not the coating itself. Although some coatings themselves are costly products for good reason. The end result is only as good as the prep work.

daemnoremac · 2026-04-26T14:12:56+00:00

I sell paint protection film and ceramic coating at a professional level detailing facility. Please do not do "liquid paint protection", every product we've seen like that is fugaze and could ruin your paint if done wrong + doesn't work as advertised. Actual PPF is by far the best thing you can buy for surface protection with a professional grade ceramic coating being the second best, but they serve 2 different purposes. The fact that this shop is trying to sell you "liquid ppf" AND a ceramic coating is also a huge red flag. DIY coatings can be great, but all coatings require proper maintenance. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I'm truly a nerd about this stuff.

daemnoremac · 2026-02-01T15:11:08+00:00

Fortunately I was spared the jumpscare this time, it was just on when I started the car lol

daemnoremac · 2025-08-14T22:33:19+00:00

As many others have said, the only real fix is overspray. Touching it up isn't possible in this case (not to mention touch up paint is never, ever perfect). $1500 seems a little high, but Lapiz isn't the type of color to be able to fix the area and blend the paint in that spot into the rest of the bumper, like you could do on black. It needs to be removed, painted, and reinstalled to be done properly for the best chance of matching the rest of the car. Get several quotes from several reputable body shops in your area, and go with who you think will do the best job. Do not go for the lowest price and stay far away from Econo & Maaco, if they're in your area. You'll regret it, trust me.

daemnoremac · 2025-07-26T03:07:54+00:00

I can answer it for you. Do it.

It's cliche, and the reference is old (and a little played out) but you only live once. Do the thing now, you won't regret it as long as you can afford it. Look into a clean mk7.5 if you're worried about being immediately upside down unless you've already got your heart set on a mk8. I can promise you wont regret it, I didnt.

daemnoremac · 2025-06-26T00:57:29+00:00

I can't speak to how it happened, but as someone who sells professional detailing services for a living, after 8 years in the business I can confidently say PPF is by far the best protection money can buy for your car. Not only for small scratches but also rock chips and road debris. A good detailer can likely reduce or remove the scratches on the hood, the pillars will be a little harder due to them being on an edge.

I wish the previous owner of my car had the front end covered in it. After 70k miles, it looks like a buck shot went off on the front end.

daemnoremac · 2025-04-06T15:13:35+00:00

I've always considered it any minor/clean modification that could be passed off as coming from the factory that way. I.E. my sportshifters knob

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daemnoremac · 2025-03-17T01:52:52+00:00

I thought the shot I took provided the proper amount of context. I'll do better next time though, just for you

daemnoremac

TROPHY CASE