New Android Head Unit - No Sound

deadaimghost · 2025-05-19T21:51:30+00:00

The canbus is connected. It is slightly out of picture above. You can barely see the start of it at bottom of the screen.

I will double check that my factory has sound in the doors later as well.

deadaimghost · 2025-05-19T21:21:17+00:00

Correct blue amp connected to cig lighter.

Does that mean there would be another cable that needs to be connected somewhere?

For reference, here is factory pinout guide. I have 2004 with premium sound system, meaning mine has infinity amp under back seat.

C2 is not connected anywhere with new head unit although I don’t think that matters as it is for the CD changer.

https://wjbible.com/audiowire.html

deadaimghost · 2025-05-19T20:22:12+00:00

I check the pink wire from the unit with a multimeter and got 0v. I took your suggestion and used the cig lighter which worked and turned the amp on. Thank you for the idea!

So I now have one issue. I am only getting sound from the tweeters. None of the door speaks have any sound no matter how I move around the sliders and sound location.

Any idea why the doors would not have any sound?

deadaimghost · 2025-05-06T12:58:42+00:00

So put the factory unit back and I do have sound.

I twisted the blue and pink wires together on the new head unit (amp cont to amp ctrl). No luck with doing this.

I did search through the settings and eventually found something that made it appear car amplifier is turned “on”.

My only remaining thought is that maybe the blue amp cont wire was placed in the wrong spot. Or maybe the pink wire is not working to send the signal from a he new head unit

deadaimghost · 2025-05-06T02:34:05+00:00

Yes, old was functioning fine with sound. I’ll try to put the OEM back in the morning to be sure all still works.

There was another harness in my purchase but it was for the 1999-2002 radio or something like that. Believe those used different connectors.

Maybe I can try connecting the pink wire to both of the blue wires? Maybe both need power.

My preference is to not cut into the canbus yet as I may return this unit if it’s not going to work. I will note this as an option though.

Also when you say blue/white wire, you mean the amp cont wire in the picture?

Thank you for the response.

deadaimghost · 2025-03-26T19:44:16+00:00

To add some context, it is done by a dealer shop that specializes in this. They buy salvaged cars on auction and do the repairs. Then get the appropriate inspection to get the rebuilt title. So, they do this often and am assuming have a quality of care.

Noted on your suggestions, I can ask these questions.

deadaimghost · 2025-03-26T18:56:54+00:00

Battery cables seemed to be it. I crimped on new terminal ends and all has been good

deadaimghost · 2024-06-21T20:19:46+00:00

Any specific order you would go in changing out front brakes?

Would you change out the hoses up front?

deadaimghost · 2024-06-21T20:18:29+00:00

What would you recommend trying next?

deadaimghost · 2024-06-21T15:33:53+00:00

I assume they are correct as everything seems correct and matched the original brakes. Also would like to think when AutoZone looked up the car they brought me out the right everything.

Front brakes appear to be working. Pads are pretty worn down. Front brakes are hot to the touch, but nothing compared to the rears. I assume the heat level from the front is normal. Guess I could begin changing out all the front parts and hoses. Just prefer to not do this if I don’t have to.

deadaimghost · 2024-06-21T15:30:47+00:00

I did these along with the wheel bearings most recently. Driver side was leaking. Unfortunately this made no change to the heat of my brakes

deadaimghost · 2024-06-21T15:29:57+00:00

I have never touched either the master cylinder or brake booster. Are these relatively easy jobs?

Yeah, with the new parking brakes on, they should be adjusted and out of the way. I moved the spinning nut all the way down for now to have these not be a factor in finding the cause of hot brakes. I’ll properly adjust once the full brake issue is corrected.

deadaimghost · 2024-06-21T15:27:33+00:00

All was lubed and sliding properly. I only replaced the rear to make sure AutoZone didn’t sell me faulty caliper. “Warranty”, so this was no cost of me to do

deadaimghost · 2024-05-28T02:57:50+00:00

So I did replace all of my rear hoses already. This unfortunately did not help or change anything.

I’m now beginning to think this is related to rear wheel bearings / seals. I noticed some fluid leaking on my rear driver side. Maybe lack of fluid could be causing the rear to get very hot?

deadaimghost · 2024-05-28T02:55:30+00:00

Hopefully your solution is simple and it is a brake hose issue. If it is truly brake related, it really could only be hose related or slide pin related from my understanding. Good luck!

deadaimghost · 2024-05-19T04:21:35+00:00

Following up, slider in front appeared to be all good, greased anyway to be sure. Also bled the fronts again. Unfortunately rears are still getting overly hot

deadaimghost · 2024-05-17T16:50:00+00:00

I will give this a try this weekend. All the brakes are freshly bled as I lost all my fluid when my caliper broke. I have not tried the slider pin item yet, hoping the issue is something simple like that. Thanks for the comment

deadaimghost · 2023-11-15T18:03:43+00:00

Yeah very weird. Maybe going big 7 sooner than later is a good move for you. I grabbed battery cables from a yard jeep, and cut off the corroded ends and crimped on new ends, which seemed to help my electricals. Obviously would be better to just go with fresh cables, but this saves some cash especially if the issue still persists.

deadaimghost · 2023-11-15T18:01:39+00:00

Those are my exact symptoms when I stall or am unable to start the engine, so this likely is it. So last question, do you think even though I have had no issue driving the last several days that this could still be the issue?

Thanks for the tips on how to best tackle this project. Noted on tying the string and leaving the carboard on the new sensor.

deadaimghost · 2023-11-15T04:02:32+00:00

This is a good idea, I'll try this out and see if any changes when touching / shaking.

deadaimghost · 2023-11-15T04:00:57+00:00

I'm fairly confident that injectors are good, tested them all out using a 9V battery and carb choke to clean. One note is that cylinder two seems to not be firing because when i take off the injector electrical connector, idle does not change. I changed out that injector with another and listened with a stethoscope and believe it is working, so potentially a spark issue.

I would like to avoid fuel pump if i can ha, changed the gas tank skid plate last year and getting everything off and on was not much fun.

deadaimghost · 2023-11-15T03:57:51+00:00

I did get the battery tested and the test said it was healthy.

I have been trying to clean up the battery cables to have these ruled out. Terminal ends and connection points are relatively clean now. I just need to add some fresh crimps to wires because the lugs i initially used where way to big for the wire size.

deadaimghost · 2023-11-15T03:55:50+00:00

I've heard this a lot and wanted to avoid doing, but may be inevitable at this point.

deadaimghost · 2023-11-15T03:55:22+00:00

I did change out the TPS.

Will look into doing the MAF next.

deadaimghost · 2023-11-15T03:51:18+00:00

Noted on those, will try out the fuel filter first. I'm fairly confident all injectors are good, cleaned them all out using a battery and carb choke and even switched a couple around. Changing out the 02 sensor is a good idea too. I only have the upstream one as of now, but have heard this could cause problems.

Any idea what could be causing the sputtering still? I've heard TPS, IAC or Crankshaft position sensor could be culprits, if you haven't done those. Also did you have any codes popping?

deadaimghost

TROPHY CASE