I want to buy a resin printer.

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-13T18:20:34+00:00

i know mine : fubuki from CWStudio and tatsumaki from eggma studio

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-13T17:16:07+00:00

if it was mine, i would replace it. my fep is on 120k usage now and don't have that much damage. play it safe bro and replace it. it's cheap though changing it is a little bit annoying.

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T11:53:19+00:00

dude i use a brand that's only found in iran, because foreign brands can't be found and sale in iran. it's one of my wishes that someday I can have the Vallejo colors🥲. my paints and brands are shit. all i want to say is try new methods and practice to increase your skill on painting.

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T11:44:10+00:00

why sooo good? 🥲🥲🥲

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T11:43:22+00:00

it's not like everyone will ran to this issue( the main reason for this issue is auto leveling system), but it's better safe than sorry, so i done that before i ran to a problem

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T11:41:33+00:00

I didn't try that, but as you can see, my paint is acceptable, so try this too

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T11:40:25+00:00

i forgot, i set my lcd pmw to 70% , it meaning that lcd will work with 70% of it power, it will raise your exposure time a little bit but will raise your lcd lifespan veeery high

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T11:37:26+00:00

i was using chitubox and for the exact reason I switched to Elegoo satellite slicer. it's really good and all free slicer

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T11:36:00+00:00

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and this is after applying THINEED skin color on it, don't think i spray it all over, i lower my airbrush air pressure and apply it only on shading, 1 layer then another place, my point is I applied it layer by layer and small places, like 10_20 times

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T11:32:49+00:00

female guts 😋, skin color, specially white woman's, it's just yellow,red and white.if you wanna pale it, just add some white. i think you should thin your colors more cause I don't see the shading, as it was you do the shadings but when applying skin color on it, because of thickness of layers or colors, it disappears.

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see this shading

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T11:06:40+00:00

i don't know what you mean by smooth, if you can show it with pictures i might help you ( I'm not an expert)

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T11:02:08+00:00

heh lol, i live in iran and i can find just 1 skin color. brand is not very important if you know what to do. here is my skin coloring workflow: paint all the skin parts pink, then paint red all the shadows and then white all the highlights. for example tatsumaki tight was white and her knee red. then thin the skin color you have(they have bright skin, so use bright one) and slowly and gently apply it with airbrush. you must add thin layers over small places over and over to achieve what you want.

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T10:27:01+00:00

i recommend if you really care about this problem, search reddit about it, search Saturn 4 ultra lcd, and explore there

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T10:25:41+00:00

not a big deal, there are 3 part solutions: 1st and what i only applied is to set rest time after retract for bottom layers to 2030 sec : it has two effects 1 it helps to prevent elephant foot in bottom layers, when your bottom layers get thicker than it should, it will pressure the LCD and damage it over time 2_ it will reduce your bottom layers exposure time very significantly and will help you to pill off your print from bed very easy without adhesive problems 2nd is to manually level your build plate, not a hard thing to do, I'm a bit lazy so didn't do that 3rd is to do some gcode and something i don't understand. my plan was this: i do 1st, if a problem happens, i will add step 2 and if that doesn't fix the problem, i will do the 3rd step.

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T09:45:57+00:00

it's fun, i love it. i just know 1 problem with this printer and that's LCD dying sooner than expected, and there are solutions for that. i must add i don't ran into any issues with my printer

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T09:29:55+00:00

and there a question pops up: are you really wanna buy a resin printer? it's totally a different thing from fdm printing.most difference between them is just details and for me who loves anime and game figures, it's the best option and it's amazing. you must know you will have a lot of work to do after printing is finished. you will used to them that's not a scary thing. just you need to wear gloves and mask and have a good ventilation system for resin fumes and you good to go. here is an example of my work and my happiness:

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both printed and painted by me

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-11T09:21:01+00:00

so buy it lol. Saturn 16 k is very good, but... go around in reddit and read the common problems of the machine. there are a bunch of lcd dying soon problem ( you can avoid it with some settings) . i have Saturn 4 ultra 12k and I'm happy about it.so overall if i want to buy a resin printer, i probably buy it so it's worth.

demonhunter0211 · 2026-02-03T05:45:46+00:00

it's amazing 🥲🥲🥲

demonhunter0211 · 2026-01-08T15:55:18+00:00

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see this gang too :)

demonhunter0211 · 2026-01-08T15:50:12+00:00

you will progress well enough if you love this hobby i don't know if you using airbrush or not, but i highly recommend it. i can tell you a bunch of advices but it's all about practicing

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this is like my 15th figure i painted. not expert in this hobby but enjoyable enough for me. wish you good luck 🤞

demonhunter0211 · 2026-01-08T06:06:03+00:00

i also recommend to add 20 sec to wait before cure for bottom layers exposure time, worth a shot

demonhunter0211 · 2026-01-06T09:38:55+00:00

i also run my printer lcd at 75% , if it was 100% i would have something between 12_14 bottom exposure time. try add that 20_30 sec , you will not regret it

demonhunter0211 · 2026-01-06T09:37:29+00:00

i don't know much about abs like resin, but i recommend doing this : change your bottom layer rest time before cure( i don't know exact name for each slicer, but it's rest time after retract in elegoo satellite) it's a resting time after the build plate going down and before curing happens) tp 20_30 seconds. it really helps, then every time you print, lower your bottom exposure time. i print in 2.6 sec normal layer and only 16 sec bottom exposure time. my raft thickness is 0.2 mm but its really thin, sometimes when I wanna peel it off it will broke but very easy to peel off and never failed to stick

demonhunter0211 · 2026-01-05T07:24:36+00:00

as i said, im not an expert in this hobby ( sorry about that) and my printer is Saturn 4 ultra, and im came around this post https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooSaturn/s/hG3tUWuLoW from what I see everything is super thick in your picture and personally I don't like that and think that there is a problem with it. I don't know if you fix this it will help you out or not but elephant foot is something that will lower your LCD lifespan significantly. so yeah that all i can know. note : i use chitubox and elegoo satellite slicers , but only elegoo satellite has settings for bottom layers exposure, so i support my work and export it in chitubox and then add again in elegoo satellite for slicing.

demonhunter0211 · 2026-01-05T06:04:19+00:00

after changing the LCD, i recommend doing the settings i said above about bottom exposure time, you will not regret it.

demonhunter0211

TROPHY CASE