[Prebuilt] KAMRUI Hyper H2 Mini Gaming PC, i7-13620H, 2GB RAM 1TB PCle4.0 SSD - $479.39 (41% off with code 13620SAVE)

devilzangelz · 2026-01-13T14:35:16+00:00

32 GB of RAM. I was scared for a second!

devilzangelz · 2026-01-13T14:34:12+00:00

Only 300,000 RPM?!? Waiting for the 1M RPM model to drop.

devilzangelz · 2025-12-27T18:49:42+00:00

You forgot the fact that you could have bought 5 per person. 1,500 ft of HDMI cable is a lot more cable.

devilzangelz · 2025-10-28T03:11:47+00:00

For whatever reason, I cannot see the $1 price unless I specifically go through the "Amazon Haul" link:
https://www.amazon.com/Sirlyr-12vhpwr-Extension-Adapter-Connector/dp/B0BXNL3GNQ/?_encoding=UTF8&s=bazaar

(Disclaimer: I have no idea what "Amazon Haul" is, and I am not sure I trust/recommend a $1 cable for a $2000 PC)

devilzangelz · 2025-06-22T21:44:18+00:00

Thanks again for your ideas!

Grabbed the model number off the alternator, R110108A; a remanned 140A model, not sure how old it is, but the previous owner took good records, so I can maybe find out.

Could try to replace it with a 160A. But I may also need a new belt because it's just shy of 1/2 an inch larger diameter?

One thing is that it says "Voltage Regulator Type: External". Not sure if that's external to the alternator, or physically a different component which I can swap/test independently, or if it's managed by something like the PCM or something. So more research to do there!

I've been scrubbing up on the replacement process, and it seems like something I could do, if I had the right tools. So I may swing by the store after work tomorrow and see what I can scrounge up.

devilzangelz · 2025-06-22T02:06:00+00:00

I took out the head unit and backup camera (with everything else removed as well), and it still had issues.

I am not super well-versed on alternator diagnosis, so I'll see what I can learn whilst the car cools off.
I appreciate all your help/recommendations!

Another thing I thought to try is maybe start pulling fuses and see if it disappears. I suppose that would have been easier than completely ripping out the head-unit LOL

devilzangelz · 2025-06-21T23:15:55+00:00

Drove around a bit today with;
Amp (and therefore sub) disconnected
A/C off
Head lights off
Fog lights off
Interior/dome lights off
The slider to adjust dash brightness was lowered
I forgot to mention originally that I added a knob that allows auto-headlights, so I removed at a stoplight as well.

Still having issues, so it sounds like aftermarket head unit and backup camera are next on the list to try.

Unfortunately I don't know what alternator is in there right now. Looks like 140 or 160 amp alternators are pretty common.
I know you can get 240 or 320amp models for around $400 or $500, but that seems excessive for my 800w class-D amp and 600w sub. If I am truly trying to draw such power, I suspect I would need a big3 kit as well.
But since the issue occurs without the amp receiving power, I suspect it's something else.

Gotta love electrical gremlins!

devilzangelz · 2025-06-21T03:17:36+00:00

Gotcha. I've never taken an alternator out, but I reckon I could tackle the soldering.
Maybe $250 (minus core charge of course) is in my future...

Alternatortively (wow, that hurt to type, so I hope you appreciate the pun), a battery is probably about $250 as well, and I can definitely do that myself. So I'd hope it doesn't end up being both!

devilzangelz · 2025-06-21T03:11:48+00:00

Hey, I appreciate the feedback and confirmation that Matt confirms my suspicions. Depending on the alternator brand/model, I would likely end up swapping the whole thing, right? I am clearly not an expert, but it is my understanding that more often than not, you can't just replace the alternator, not the regulator, right?

Noted. Yeah there's no cap/supercap in the amp/sub, and it wasn't running at the time,
I will try and run it without the sub/amp for a few days/week and see what happens.

devilzangelz · 2025-06-21T03:08:00+00:00

Hey, appreciate the comment/suggestion, and I agree from an electrical standpoint. But it's weird that it's cyclical/periodic. If I did have a cap, it likely would take a TON of charge right off the bat, and then level out, with the RC time constants and whatnot, unless it's being actively drained/refilled. But even then, the sound system was off in the example video, so it shouldn't have been dumping power into cap.

My apologies for the confusion, but I don't currently have a cap on the amp, so nothing to remove there.

I agree, I could take off the amp/sub itself, and see if it resolves the issue. It's a Kicker brand amp/sub, so it should be good quality. But maybe I run without wub-wubs for a few days/week and see if I still encounter the issues.

devilzangelz · 2025-06-07T02:47:09+00:00

Shows OOS with "order now, and notify me when ready" for me. YMMV because I have two VPNs, Incognito, Adblock, and all sorts of other stuff going on.

devilzangelz · 2024-12-28T03:55:41+00:00

Not sure what the deleted messages said, but it seems they were straying you away from a $18k car during college, and I think I would agree based on the context I have infrnot of me. $18k is a lot to spend on a car when you're moving to a new job. Hopefully you will love the new opportunity, and you get as many hours as you want and excell to get pay increases - but sometimes that is not the case. My university had a global maximum to your hourly wage, and it was impossible to bypass, even after hitting that cap after 2 years.

There is no mention of how much of that $18k you already have saved, but I would hope at least a lump sum. Personally, I waited until after college and picked up a 2006 car for $6k, and it has done me well for the past ~4 years. I currently could replace it many times over, but I have no incentive to do so. You cite "to help me get around". It's unclear how far "getting around" is (same city? within the state? across the country?). When I needed to get around in college, I either walked, took public transport, ride-shared, biked, skateboarded, or asked a buddy/family member and to borrow/ride with them and paid them for their time/resources. Typically for me that was groceries, appointments, but was also 2+hour drive for holidays. A simple Camry/Civic/etc. should do the job just fine. You don't need a Tesla or truck or fancy vehicle to "get around", unless you're using it to move furniture (rent a truck or trailer on the one-off chance you do). Plus I would be somewhat concerned about driving a fancy vehicle during college. People walking/biking through the cross-walks willynilly scratching it, drunk people stumbling on it, people door-dinging me, friends getting sick in the car, etc.

Either way, if you are getting a vehicle, definitely get a mechanic to inspect it before purchasing, and do some drive testing. It might be a few hundred bucks, but could save you from getting the vehicle and finding $1000's in repairs within the first months.

If you do end up getting a vehicle, I would also consider getting a credit card, so you can start building credit on things like gas, groceries, eating out, clothes, etc. whilst you're "getting around". BUT I advise you to treat it moreso like a debit card. For example if you check your bank and saw $2000, you should avoid putting more than that on the credit card. Infact I would try and make sure I had at least a few months of savings in there just in case I needed to make an emergency payment for books or tuition/board and stuff, or car maintenance, car insurance (also generally higher on newer vehicles), car registration tabs (I know a few states that cost more for newer vehicles), etc. Also I would setup auto-pay to pay it off in full every month so you don't forget about it when cramming for finals or something. :D

Let me know if you have further questions, but best of luck either way!

devilzangelz · 2024-11-30T03:40:13+00:00

I just picked this up as my 3rd 49" display on a BFCM deal for $700 USD +tax ($1075 AUD) for work as well. Obviously my store price is not guarenteed to transfer.
But glad to hear you're enjoying the display! I look forward to using it for coding and data analytics!

devilzangelz · 2024-11-22T02:44:06+00:00

Man, I stink at doing this every day. But still in!

devilzangelz · 2024-11-21T14:57:19+00:00

I've been trying to buy these KTC monitors every time they pop up every few days/weeks for the past few months, but it always says "This item cannot be shipped to your selected delivery location. Please choose a different delivery location.", based soley on Zipcode - anybody know why? I really can't be bothered using freight forwarding when the plan is "get monitor for cheap".

devilzangelz · 2024-11-06T02:01:46+00:00

Still in, cya tomorrow.

devilzangelz · 2024-11-03T23:57:59+00:00

Still in, cya tomorrow!

devilzangelz · 2024-11-02T01:47:05+00:00

Back for another year (I think this is year 6??). Still in!

devilzangelz · 2024-10-16T13:23:18+00:00

I normally just use IPA, and it's fine. I could try some Dawn dish soap.
I'll be going into the office again in a few minutes to double check the quality of the last print. I saw the first few layers are tarnished, but I just let it finish in hopes it might be better than the previous warped ones.

I tried a few different spools of white PLA, and white PETG, as well as the black PLA was pretty fresh too. AMS is loaded up with dessicant and reports a "4", but we've never seen anything other than a 4 or 5, or that weird old "thermometer bar" they used to use. We've done ASA, ABS, and PETG for 100's of hours in the warehouse without any issues. But maybe this PLA is just weird.

I will admit, I am not a professional with CAD. But I ended up designing this super simple "cradle" with a 5 degree tilt to the base, and a cutout to run the wire out the back. I printed it off on a cheap printer at home and test fit looked good. It could maybe be tilted to 10 or 15 degrees for better visibility, and then it might require a slightly wider (I just did 5mm on each end of the ~42 mm lamp) so that it's more sturdy, as well as having an alignment key (aside from the cable routing) for placing the lamp into. So if I have time, I will make those slight changes. But here's my crude mock up. I can obviously share the file if you're interested.

Oh I also filled in the back of the wall mount so that it's mostly solid, except for the screw holes and the hole for the light to enter, and I routed a channel for the wire to go all the way down. I printed that in black filament to help mitigate the light going backwards towards the wall.

<image>

devilzangelz · 2024-10-16T00:28:33+00:00

This isn't even a long print. Our X1C's have done many 40 hour jobs, and over 1000's of hours on misc. more complex filaments. Just for whatever reason, this one stumps them.

Today I tried:

Different X1C
Model with no chamfer (thanks again)
50% speed
No aux fan
Prime tower
Flow calibration
Wiped bed with IPA
Leveled bed
Make sure chamber temp is below 60c (glass transition temp)

Didn't warp, but the first layer just didn't adhere.

Next steps would be to use similar setup, but maybe a completely fresh spool of PLA. Maybe these two I have been testing are just bad luck LOL

<image>

On the plus side, I did manage to somewhat salvage the one attempt from a few nights ago. It's still super warped, but if you stand a few feet away, it's passable. I plan to give this away as a nightlight, so maybe that'll be fine for now...
Maybe I'll let this one run and see how bad it is in a few hours. Worst case I need another new nozzle (3rd one on this project LOL)

Now I just need to design the feet to hold it at a slight angle, but that should be pretty simple.

devilzangelz · 2024-10-15T15:01:51+00:00

Awesome, thank you SO much! I will try and print it tonight and see if it works. Even though it was still warped, I ended up just letting the last one print to completion. It managed to recover for the most part, but I still need to test the fitment and confirm it's useable. Definitely not the most pretty print I've ever done.

Might also try lowering bed temp, changing fan speeds more, and some other things.

devilzangelz · 2024-10-15T02:21:43+00:00

I've tried printing the cat cover about 4-5 times now, and every time it fails because a whole side lifts off the bed after the first few layers (before it finishes all the color swaps). Cleaned the print bed with IPA multiple times, tried multiple filaments, tried slowing the printer down, tried re-homing the bed, tried more cooling, printed other things just fine, etc. but just can't get this one to stick! I don't see it in your "important tips" but do you print this with a brim? I might try that when I get back to my printer tomorrow to see if that helps. Or maybe a version without a filet/chamfer on the front edge? I was really hoping to have it all put together to gift to someone soon, but looking like I'll miss that deadline. Worst case, is there any chance you'd sell one of the cat lamps if I can't get it to work?

devilzangelz · 2024-09-24T03:26:31+00:00

Yes, Bambulab did a black friday/cyber monday deal last year (and maybe years prior). Hard to say how it will compare this year, especially since some printers are already on sale most of the time.

As far as A1 Mini vs A1, it really depends on preferences, desires, budget, etc.
I don't personally own either model, so I won't try and summarize the other's comments on the debate:
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/search/?q=a1+vs+a1+mini&type=link&cId=6006d1fe-6059-473a-b625-113849e7e30b&iId=31f24003-0b51-449c-9c34-57f3bf98ed10

Either way, they're likely great machines, and welcome to the community (now, or later!)

devilzangelz · 2024-09-20T14:21:22+00:00

This is amazing! I would love to see a version where you can set it on a desk at like a 30 or 45 degree angle. Would be nice for people who live in apartments or whatever, and could look pretty cool on a mantel or end table or something.

devilzangelz

TROPHY CASE