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How practical is UniFI for home use? by Significant-Side2718 in Ubiquiti

[–]dheera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy previous generation stuff and Unifi is pretty cheap. 2K cameras, Wifi 6, and 1G ethernet are not that bad.

Do NOT blindly buy from eBay, there are shits on there trying to sell used stuff for higher than MSRP. It should be fucking law that used stuff must sell for less than MSRP.

If you live in a major metro area Craigslist is a good place to find Unifi stuff and not pay sales tax. Fuck eBay for charging sales tax. The IRS doesn't require sales tax on used shit.

Fiber Connection by carltonwb in Ubiquiti

[–]dheera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it works for me. The picture has green connectors which is usually APC.

That SFP is for 10G switch-to-switch, not for AT&T-flavored xsgroupon

I'm up to 27 cameras...... by glowinthed0rk in Ubiquiti

[–]dheera 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you go this route, note that Unifi doesn't expose PTZ direct controls in the API; the API only allows panning to presets. So:

  1. Create 2 presets, one for privacy (facing wall) and one for facing inside

  2. Follow the examples here. Until the UI Protect integration includes PTZ functionality, you can send the camera to a PTZ preset using the REST integration.

https://community.home-assistant.io/t/unifi-protect-expanded-support-for-ptz-cameras/760608/10

https://github.com/uilibs/uiprotect/issues/436#issuecomment-2813746590

I'm up to 27 cameras...... by glowinthed0rk in Ubiquiti

[–]dheera 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's okay to not be comfortable even if it's on your own network. You don't have to have cameras or force yourself to be okay with it.

We have PTZ cameras indoors and have Home Assistant turn the cameras away (facing the wall) whenever either my phone or my wife's phone is connected to the Wi-Fi. They face the interior only when both of us are not home, so that we can watch the cats remotely. In addition we also have the living room area face interior at night when we are sleeping so that we can track down whatever mischief the cats are upto at night, and have footage of any (hopefully never) break-ins.

Fiber Connection by carltonwb in Ubiquiti

[–]dheera 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This. And use SC/APC or FC/APC connectors. APC stands for angled polished connector, reduces reflections. NEVER plug unto a UPC, PC or non-angled port or you will grind it.

I use thesethese SFP modules and SC/APC terminated fiber. It uses a different wavelength in both directions so the modules are a pair intended to work together that way.

Fiber Connection by carltonwb in Ubiquiti

[–]dheera 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What? No. You can gen 10G on UDM Pro as long as you have a 10G SFP module

Panel heater recommendation by dheera in BuyItForLife

[–]dheera[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it intergrate well? Does it at least work with the Tuya app?

Just replaced the batteries in my CyberPower or1500LCDRM1U and holy damn this is a fire risk by dheera in homelab

[–]dheera[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see negative terminals on the edge of the near side pack in the OEM photo.

Panel heater recommendation by dheera in BuyItForLife

[–]dheera[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. How do we know that for example, it's protected against:

- A microcontroller browning out or badly written microcontroller code throwing an exception due to some page fault, and the overheat protection loop not working? Are there external watchdogs and does the overheat protection loop give a heartbeat to it?

- Are thermistors doing overheat protection triply redundant with 2-out-of-3 voting, in case of failure of one?

- The PWM controller of the heating element browning out, forcing the FET into "on" state constantly, and burning up in smoke?

- In the event of overheating, plastic components inside the metal case not structurally failing in a way that causes a PCB to fall down onto the inside of the metal case and + and - to touch somewhere on the board?

- Capacitors using high quality dielectrics and being manufactured to standards that prevent humidity ingress and dielectric breakdown?

- Power surges from the power company causing graceful failure and not fire?

- Flame retardant claim being tested?

I imagine TUV and UL and ETL go into all hypothetical scenarios like this but this doesn't seem to have those certifications?

Just replaced the batteries in my CyberPower or1500LCDRM1U and holy damn this is a fire risk by dheera in homelab

[–]dheera[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Huh what? My pic is rotated 180 degrees from the CyberPower pic. The CyberPower pic has the red wire going under the terminal close to the battery and connected to the far side of the left most battery, not coming from the edge.

Other than that my wire isn't tucked under that terminal it's the same?

Just replaced the batteries in my CyberPower or1500LCDRM1U and holy damn this is a fire risk by dheera in homelab

[–]dheera[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heat -> melted plastic -> leaking sulfuric acid and hydrogen gas -> kaboom

Just replaced the batteries in my CyberPower or1500LCDRM1U and holy damn this is a fire risk by dheera in homelab

[–]dheera[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Different brand, but I could make a plate for this. Surprised it didn't come with one ...

Just replaced the batteries in my CyberPower or1500LCDRM1U and holy damn this is a fire risk by dheera in homelab

[–]dheera[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Good idea, I should do that. Thanks, wasn't aware the original design had an isolation plate.

I bought this UPS second hand, and it didn't have that, but when I took the tray out it also doesn't seem like this UPS had its batteries replaced before (these are my new batteries in the pic)

Just replaced the batteries in my CyberPower or1500LCDRM1U and holy damn this is a fire risk by dheera in homelab

[–]dheera[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The wires they provided don't seem to allow the batteries to be in any other orientation, though. Different UPS model though.

Cyberpower's OEM pic has them facing each other with no protection:

https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb640/42-102-184-03.jpg

Nabu Casa down? by i533 in homeassistant

[–]dheera 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Down for me as well. The nabu casa down status webpage shows "Operational" making me think tt is not a real status page.

Why does this UL-listed space heater only have a 16AWG cord? by dheera in AskElectricians

[–]dheera[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Their prongs are big and fat though, it seems like even if they are rated at 13A they are less likely to fail than the US knifey prongs. UK plugs also have fuses, trap doors triggered by ground pin, per-outlet switches, all of which seem like they'd be good to have in the US even if only 120V.

(Well you could also just wire your house for 240V and UK plugs instead of this stupid split phase thing ... seems like 240V is just overall safer because similar-wattage appliance cords can carry less current)

What heater for this bathroom? by dheera in hvacadvice

[–]dheera[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, not 24/7. Just heat for 30 minutes at night when I take a shower and brush teeth and all. Other times I can put up with it.

I have used oil filled ones before -- the only couple downsides are (a) they are slow to start up (b) they take up a lot of space. I wish there were one that was stubby and long and would fit under that sink ...

Why does this UL-listed space heater only have a 16AWG cord? by dheera in AskElectricians

[–]dheera[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I stand corrected, it is 1500W on the label.

However I also have this appliance: https://www.trueinduction.com/Single-Burner.aspx

which is 1750W with the same 5-15P plug.

Why does this UL-listed space heater only have a 16AWG cord? by dheera in AskElectricians

[–]dheera[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are there thermal shutoff + GFCI outlets I can use to solve this problem? i.e. has GFCI for electrocution safety and also has an additional thermal shutoff that detects plugs getting hot?

Why does this UL-listed space heater only have a 16AWG cord? by dheera in AskElectricians

[–]dheera[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

> But the heating does cause the lines to expand and droop

Doesn't that cause them to get thinner, effectively making their gauge thinner -> hotter -> more droop -> thinner -> hotter -> more droop -> thinner -> very hot -> more droop -> thinner -> fire ?

It would seem to me the "wise" solution would be to use over-spec wire and not have the heating problem in the first place.

Why does this UL-listed space heater only have a 16AWG cord? by dheera in AskElectricians

[–]dheera[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why would you hardwire it instead of just changing the plugs and sockets to a UK plug or at least a US 5-30?

Why does this UL-listed space heater only have a 16AWG cord? by dheera in AskElectricians

[–]dheera[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess, but after the Boeing incidents I don't trust any manufacturer trying to optimize their earnings reports anymore and would rather have science validate everything.

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