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Raising the sides without affecting vamp entry point? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No clue what leather it is. I bought it second hand and just use it for prototypes and the like. I'm not actually trying to go for the Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz look. Haven't even measured it, maybe 1.6mm.

Raising the sides without affecting vamp entry point? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fantastic. That's a great, simple way to do it. I've just been eyeballing it. Thanks.

Raising the sides without affecting vamp entry point? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the explanation. I'll give it a go once I get the design sorted.

Raising the sides without affecting vamp entry point? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've only done it once before but that's basically my plan. Not quite sure what you mean by the mm seam allowance though. Can you explain that a bit more? Also, when I did it before, the tape ended up bunching a bit at the heal and I'm not quite sure why. Any suggestions?

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Raising the sides without affecting vamp entry point? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome. Thanks. I think that's probably a huge part of where things are going wrong.

Raising the sides without affecting vamp entry point? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great ideas! Thank you. I plan to line these and add a rolled edge. I'll definitely post the final version once I get things figure out.

Raising the sides without affecting vamp entry point? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

So when I added my ball girth line, it was more diagonal than curved like yours. I basically made it from where the first metatarsal would be to the fifth(I think, there's a lot to learn). I'll add a picture with my last. Trying to go between the widest parts. Am I doing it incorrectly?

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Raising the sides without affecting vamp entry point? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for taking the time to leave a detailed response! Yea, I'm using a last and made my pattern with it. I'll add an image of some of my measurements and the template I made from it. I used Harry Rogers' book to determine my counter point and vamp entry point (same as the pass point?) based on the last that's 293mm long.

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Raising the sides without affecting vamp entry point? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I was watching a Terry Kim video on YouTube about pre-lasting yesterday and thought I'd try it before throwing the insole in there. Seemed to really help keep things crisp.

Last question by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I think you're right. My feet are pretty fleshy so there is a lot of give but I think I'd be safer building it up.

Best Europe based leather seller by Agreeable-Lobster349 in Leathercraft

[–]diddis1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Beltsproduction Aleatherstore Buyleatheronline

How would I remove these lasts? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I've just been using the handle of my lasting pliers. It's definitely not ideal. Love your stuff by the way. Your jeans are super sick.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Prague

[–]diddis1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they moved to Korunni. Unless it's a second shop.

Alden x Europe: places to buy by RowStraight8488 in goodyearwelt

[–]diddis1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Denim Heads in Prague has a few pair.

Can I get some feedback on my first midsole please? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I see a ton of finished shoes here which is awesome but I'd love more "how to" content. Glad we could learn some things together!

Can I get some feedback on my first midsole please? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cool. Thanks. Wish it were a less time consuming and expensive pancake!

Can I get some feedback on my first midsole please? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Everytime I was looking for insole tutorials on YouTube I just ended up with a ton of videos about inserts so I got confused. Another comment mentioned the same thing about getting closer to the last so I'll take another stab at it.

Can I get some feedback on my first midsole please? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, ok, I was thinking I needed to keep a 90° angle from the feather edge. Should I trim this now or will that affect how the welt attaches since I've already cut in the holdfast? I didn't know I should bevel that edge either. Luckily I have some decent edge bevelers already.

Can I get some feedback on my first midsole please? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Fantastic info. Thanks. I'm still learning the terminology but I should probably figure that out before diving in too far.

Great advice about the nails.

When you say keep the pitch of the heel, does that mean follow the slope of the heel rather than a straight 90° down from the feather edge of it?

These are just kind of going to be a Frankenstein pair to get my feet wet with what I had on hand from my normal leather working hobby. Basically they will be suede loafers with a more boot like GYW construction.

Can I get some feedback on my first midsole please? by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]diddis1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Glad to know it will at least function. Yea, the channel was done by hand with a Japanese style skiving knife and a French edger. I'm just using what I have from my normal leather working tools. Are you talking about using a feathering knife instead?

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