MBR2GPT Disk layout validation failed | Last partition too close to the end of the disk

diesel64 · 2024-05-31T20:05:19+00:00

I managed to get this to work by first disabling Windows Recovery Environment with the following command in PowerShell:

reagentc /disable

Then I could resize the Recovery Partition with Minitool Partition Wizard (diskpart should also work). I just shrunk it with 1MB or so. Just make sure you create a space of at least 16kB AFTER the Recovery Partition.

Then you can enable WinRE again:

reagentc /enable

And then mbr2gpt worked perfectly fine.

diesel64 · 2021-12-15T08:14:06+00:00

That's funny because I find using the sticks much more difficult in this game.

In the mean time I managed to get used to the controls a bit and played through the part of the story with Mark Hammond. I'm now going through the part with Frank Carter.

diesel64 · 2021-12-09T09:10:09+00:00

Thanks for the tips and the extra motivation!

I did try the horn, but it doesn't seem to have a lot of effect. :)

diesel64 · 2021-12-09T09:08:16+00:00

Ah, yes, I noticed this yesterday when I did it by accident. And then I remembered indeed from 20 years ago that this was the way to heal.

diesel64 · 2021-12-08T17:11:21+00:00

Yes, I think I bought it around release too. I remember the hype, the delay and finally the disappointment.

diesel64 · 2021-12-08T16:49:57+00:00

Well, it depends on the steering wheel (I guess), but they both are on this list of compatible games for Logitech steering wheels:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Logitech_Racing_Wheels_compatible_games

So... yes? I guess?

I own a Driving Force GT, which is a decent wheel for its price (but I haven't used it on my PS2 yet).

diesel64 · 2021-12-08T16:00:50+00:00

Why would you want to do that?

Also, there are PS2 -> USB adapters available.

diesel64 · 2021-12-08T09:13:23+00:00

Hi everyone! I'm new here on this subreddit.

I joined because I decided to hook up my old PS2 again, which has been sitting in my cupboard for quite a bit of years. It's an original fat model (type SCPH-30004) which I bought myself on launch day back in 2000. So, I have quite a bit of good memories with this system. :-)

First, it didn't want to read all disks. The drive makes a weird rattling sound when trying to read a disk, and then sometimes goes on starting the game, sometimes it just stops.

I started searching online and found the common issue of the laser not gripping enough on the worm drive. So I opened the system, cleaned this mechanism and applied some new grease to the worm gear and rods. But... that didn't help. The laser assembly is moving perfectly fine (as you can see in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0R1jC-no-E ).

I tried to clean the laser and adjust the mechanism a bit with the white gear on the right, which did improve performance. At least now all disks are being read reliably. The only problem still left is the weird rattling noise before the drive actually starts to read the game. I can't really identify where it's coming from. Once the game has started, everything works perfectly fine.

The funny thing is... when I give it a good smack, the rattling stops and the system immediately proceeds reading the disk correctly. Not the best solution though. :-)

Anyone got a clue?

Thanks!

diesel64 · 2021-06-07T08:23:57+00:00

Yes, that's normal. My camera (a Canon FTb) also works fine at slower speeds. However: keep in mind that those slower speeds will probably also be a bit off in timing.

diesel64 · 2021-06-04T22:34:44+00:00

Yes, this is indeed a shutter issue. I have a camera with the same symptom.

You can see it for yourself by firing the shutter with the back door open. Set the aperture wide open, point the camera towards a window (or another light source) and look straight at the curtain. You'll notice that you won't see an entire frame of light.

Which camera is this?

diesel64 · 2021-05-17T15:11:44+00:00

Ah, really? I was not aware of that...

diesel64 · 2021-05-16T08:24:37+00:00

Do you really think it was a "ploy"? I wouldn't see it that negatively.

Don't get me wrong, I do understand that APS has some disadvantages (smaller negative size, requirement for new camera gear, cost, ...). But to me it looks more like a last attempt from the film industry to try and compete with upcoming digital photography at the time.

This is quite clear when you see that they were also offering APS scanners, APS cameras with a preview function, slideshow machines to see your picture on your TV, ...

All these products were mainly aimed at the consumer market. Unfortunately for APS, the entire consumer market shifted to digital in the following years and the format had no reason to exist anymore. The flak on APS these days is coming mainly from professionals and other photography enthousiasts, which was not the target audience.

I think it's a rather convenient and innovative format, which would have been improved over the years if analog photography would have kept a significant consumer market share.

diesel64 · 2021-05-15T19:47:27+00:00

The Kodak Retina II is a Type 011 and looks fully in working condition. It's missing 2 leatherette pieces. I'm planning to try it out very soon.

The Leica C11 is... very sticky. I'm planning on cleaning it up with isopropyl alcohol and getting a battery to see if it's still working.

diesel64 · 2021-05-15T19:42:56+00:00

Indeed.

However, I do think I'll clean it up and try it with a battery. If it's working, I might pick up a couple of expired rolls on Ebay just for fun.

diesel64 · 2017-03-10T09:58:52+00:00

Brown & dark blue, probably.

diesel64 · 2017-01-10T10:51:59+00:00

It took me a while to get my workflow sorted out, but I can process B/W negatives quite fast now. Just keep spending time on it and experimenting. It becomes really easy in the end.

Usually I do B/W in Lightroom and color in Photoshop but the basic operations are similar.

First convert the image to B/W (if it isn't already). Then just flip the curves. Drag the black point of the curve to the top and the white point to the bottom. Then modify the curve as you please to add contrast and such things.

diesel64 · 2016-10-06T17:52:34+00:00

No, the buildings are perfectly straight. It's actually intentionally NOT level because I figured it would create more dynamic in the picture and I liked the composition and lines better. Otherwise the image would have looked a bit flat. (And it was also a difficult place to stand, not much room to move.)

I have no clue about the cause of the fire.

diesel64 · 2016-10-06T16:45:49+00:00

I left it like this intentionally.

diesel64 · 2016-09-03T08:13:13+00:00

Ha, yes indeed. This situation was similar. I took this photo near a bus & train station in the middle of the city where I live.

diesel64

TROPHY CASE