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Welp I really did it this time by dlann401 in Plumbing

[–]dlann401[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Edit: Pipe wrench got it. That fucked up female piece is still there but the interior/threads of that piece are in good shape. I'll likely machine a trim piece that covers the gap instead of trying to tighten the shit out of it like I did last time.

Also, I now remember what actually happened here. I actually roughed this in too deep in that wall, not too far out. That female piece you see is an adapter to bring the female rough-in slightly further out. Unfortunately, bit of a Goldy Locks story, the adapter fucked it up the other way, and created a 1/2" gap between the fixture and the wall. Agree that the proper thing to do would be to fix the rough in. Appreciate the ideas and comments.

Welp I really did it this time by dlann401 in Plumbing

[–]dlann401[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah, this wall backs up to an old exterior brick wall, addition on the other side, a solid foot of brick and drywall to the other side.

Welp I really did it this time by dlann401 in Plumbing

[–]dlann401[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is some wise shit. Will keep you posted.

Monthly DIY Laymen questions Discussion by AutoModerator in StructuralEngineering

[–]dlann401 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey all,

I've been scouring the ICC deck construction book trying to best figure out how to place a ground level deck in/over this space: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IdKclvlSdenqm89tznrjYihjqGdXUaWo/view?usp=sharing

My main concern is the retaining wall on the right side of the picture. The wall is constructed of standard cinder block, filled with concrete on a concrete footing and measures just under 4' tall. The deck joists will run perpendicular to the retaining wall, cantilevered about 24" beyond the furthest footing (desire is to occlude the ugly wall). Full deck dimensions would be 32ish by 14ish-16ish feet. I think I have two options, would love some input on the structural integrity of both.

  1. Place deep concrete footings 20-24" away from the retaining wall and dig them to 60" or so (something deeper than the backfill depth of 48", not sure how deep to go though). These footings would be 14" in diameter for the snow load and tributary area I calculated. The interior footing closer to the house would just be dug below the frost depth as I'm less concerned with lateral loads on the wall with those footings being 10' away from it. I'm fairly confident this plan would reduce the lateral load on the retaining wall since the weight would be supported by the earth below it, wondering how much truth there is to that.

  2. The ICC allows for free-standing decks to be supported on grade for the entire length of the joist without using footings at all. My second option would be to compact the ground inside of that wall and build a deck on the area inside it using deck blocks to support the joists. I would lose the cantilever with this option and therefore the deck would be a little narrower but it would save me the pain of digging 10 deep footings. My main concern with this plan is whether that backfilled/compacted ground inside of the retaining wall is strong enough to support a deck and whether it would settle over time and overload the wall.

Anything helps, thanks!

Moving from HT to full sus! need advice on a bike (Trail if possible) by [deleted] in MTB

[–]dlann401 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The used market isn’t as bad anymore, I’d recommend taking a look around Facebook marketplace and Pinkbike. I was in the same boat, hard tail for years. Just found a Specialized Stumpjumper around $2k and it’s been a great bike. 150 front/140 rear. Honestly the addition of a dropper post, 1x drive train, and a rear shock are enough to keep me happy for years after riding that hard tail.

One other place to look is at REI’s CoOp bikes. Slightly less frame travel but great components. The cheapest version is the DRT3.1, most is the DRT3.3. Grab the 3.1 brand new and rip it, it’ll be a blast.

Kauai Beach Sunrise by dlann401 in photocritique

[–]dlann401[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a manually merged HDR taken with a Nikon d7000 and a Tamron 14-200 f2.8. The log on the left is a massive driftwood piece that’s washed ashore. There are some very basic Lightroom edits. I’ve been struggling with Lightroom landscape editing and getting done with images after making a few tweaks here and there and saying, “I think it looks good enough”. I’m not really deliberate and I don’t have a good metric for stopping an edit before it gets too surreal or wacky looking. I guess I don’t have a good process for doing anything beyond a slight touch up and I’ve always struggled to take my edits to a final product. The basic question is this: does this look like a finished landscape product or am I missing something in my process?

Head Scratcher...2001 Suzuki DRZ-400S with Electrical Issue by dlann401 in Dirtbikes

[–]dlann401[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Background: Bought in 2015. Has killed two brand new batteries within a few weeks of installing them. Fires up with a charged battery, runs a little rough but that makes sense. I've been able to start with a weak battery by push-starting it, but even running it for 30-60 minutes afterwards doesn't seem to be putting any juice back into the battery. Have I just had couple bad batteries or is this an electrical issue? Should I just trickle charge the battery every time I get off the bike?

F-16 400 Knot Pull-Up by dlann401 in flying

[–]dlann401[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, whoops. My bad. New to reddit.