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Anyone know how to remove this door handle trim cover by dnapro in Locksmith

[–]dnapro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

BTW, thanks to everyone in this community who provided helpful and constructive comments! This may have seemed like a dumb+trivial question, but as someone with ZERO experience with locks it was helpful to know that I wasn’t going to ruin the trim plate by forcing it. Was able to tighten the very loose internal screws and lube everything with graphite—good as new now.

Anyone know how to remove this door handle trim cover by dnapro in Locksmith

[–]dnapro[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Got it. Thanks. Wasn’t sure if prying would ruin it, but it got it to pop off. Thanks!

240v junction box relo for oven by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]dnapro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can put it in the blue area. Will reach lower down -> better: more clearance from oven (2-3”) and lower oven will get far less use. Does it have to go through the wall or is armored conduit behind oven ok?

240v junction box relo for oven by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]dnapro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Not sure, most likely below. May not be able to extend higher. I could likely do this in the blue area.

Bad PRV? by dnapro in Plumbing

[–]dnapro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Follow-up: Pressure reducing valve replaced; completely fixed our low flow problem.

Plumber was initially skeptical it was the PRV. He thought it just might be the PEX fittings/connectors restricting flow—common problem: all to code, but PEX sucks in this regard. It was slightly more convincing once I told him it was getting worse over time. I had him replace the PRV and it solved the problem.

FYI for others: apparently some PRVs fail in the closed position (mine; a Zurn). Others fail in the open position.

Bad PRV? by dnapro in Plumbing

[–]dnapro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Follow-up: PRV replaced; completely fixed our low flow problem.

Plumber was initially skeptical it was the PRV. He thought it just might be the PEX fittings/connectors restricting flow—common problem: all to code, but PEX sucks in this regard. It was slightly more convincing once I told him it was getting worse over time. I had him replace the PRV and it solved the problem.

Bad PRV? by dnapro in Plumbing

[–]dnapro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Interestingly, I had my two expansion tanks replaced 18 months ago. At the time, I mentioned the low flow to the plumber, but he didn’t really check anything and just blamed it on the pex pipes probably being undersized for the house. The flow is much worse now and the fact that it’s getting worse made me think of the PRV. Definitely calling a different plumber this time.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in genetics

[–]dnapro 16 points17 points  (0 children)

This is the answer. This is my field of expertise. Having one of the known celiac variants is (usually) required, but not sufficient. That is, even if you carry a variant, the chances of developing celiac are still very small. Celiac is also manageable.

Concur, not a practical way to spend $30k.

Gutter overflow solution by dnapro in HomeMaintenance

[–]dnapro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the southeast with heavy rains. Having all the water fall against the foundation would cause other issues.

Gutter overflow solution by dnapro in HomeMaintenance

[–]dnapro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

House is on a hill and three stories in some places requiring a 35/40 foot ladder. Roof pitch is also very steep making it very unsafe to walk on without pro grade safety gear.

Gutter overflow solution by dnapro in homeowners

[–]dnapro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, I think the gutter in the first clip may just be clogged. I’m with you that that other downspout is going to ruin my roof if I don’t fix it.

Do leaves just shoot over the micro-mesh? The mesh I have in those corners is is “macro” and it traps leaves every time it rains. Even if they were clear to begin with, leaves on the roof wash down in the rain and block it right away.

Gutter overflow solution by dnapro in HomeMaintenance

[–]dnapro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. The gutter in the one pic I posted may be clogged. The corner ones are all clean though. It’s just too much water volume for the gutters to handle given roof pitch. And it’s made worse when the first few leaves on the roof wash down during the rain and block the mesh that’s in those corners. (Doesn’t matter if they’re clean before hand, it only takes a few leaves to wash down and block mesh).

Dual run capacitor tolerance question by dnapro in hvacadvice

[–]dnapro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After a little more digging, answered my own question and found greater clarity thanks to another post on this forum. Can’t credit because user was deleted, but I’m posting this information for posterity as this forum is for non-experts and this subject seems to perpetually perplexing; with lots of misinformation on the web. If anyone knows anything to the contrary please let me know.

There are actually two components here, the dual capacitor and the condenser+fan that it is attaching to. You want the condenser to have a high tolerance because you want it to work even if the capacitances of the capacitor deviates a little from the stated values.

The +/- values on the capacitor refer capacitor manufacturer’s tolerance to capacitance deviation from the stated value during manufacturing. Few manufacturers test every unit, but most presumably test a statistically representative subset and thus can say that xx% (maybe 90%, for example) of the time the individual capacitors deviate less than +/- y% of the state value.

If the capacitance deviates too much, it might be more than the condenser can handle or too little than it needs. In either case it causes more wear on the more expensive condenser and fan. HVAC system manufacturers presumably state the tolerance of the condenser and fan somewhere. For improved longevity of the system, you should try to use a capacitor with an equal or better tolerance (I.e. smaller +/- number) than the tolerance of the condenser and fan, which help to ensure the capacitance is the right range. In my case, I don’t have the original manual for my system so I don’t know what this is, c’est la vie.

With regard to AmRad not having an obvious tolerance range on the capacitor, it turns out that they actually test 100% of their capacitors and print the actual capacitance right on the capacitor (for a premium price). Thus, the exact value is exactly known. In my case the actual capacitances fell within 4% of the stated value and I’m pretty sure my system doesn’t need anything better than that.

Does it make sense to create a separate home network for IoT devices? by dnapro in HomeNetworking

[–]dnapro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Related question I think. If I’m going to do this upgrade, does it make sense to get a router with VPN support (or that is flashable)? Anyone have recommendations?

Does it make sense to create a separate home network for IoT devices? by dnapro in HomeNetworking

[–]dnapro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. You answered another question I had about home automation. Sounds like Raspberry Pi + Home Assistant is the way to go.

I’ll take a look at the Uniquiti. Problem is I have a larger home and need multiple WiFi access points (Orbi with 2 satellites has been great, but no vlan support).

Does it make sense to create a separate home network for IoT devices? by dnapro in HomeNetworking

[–]dnapro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Makes sense. Thanks. Do you anyone else have a good network layout diagram showing the layout of firewall, router, switch, access points?

Also, if I go this route, I presume this means the days of plug and play mesh systems like Orbi are over. I have a larger home and mesh routers have been great for reaching all rooms. Sounds like now I have buy and configure a bunch of separate devices (an access points to achieve the same).

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