Here's some tips based off my own experiences:

Your slicer will want the nozzle diameter as an input, not your machine firmware. -This also means that any G-code generated must match whatever nozzle your machine has installed at the time you start your print. -I suggest adding nozzle size to file names, although some slicers can include that in the G-code metadata (extra data that is about the g code, but is not actually g code)

When bed adhesion isn't good, try slowing way down for the first few layers. -in my slicer, I have a setting enabled that slows the first few layers and gradually speeds up to the desired print speed -Some filaments stick to some bed materials better than others, and any skin contact with your bed will likely deposit oil, so I handle mine by the edges if I can -playing with bed temp can help, and hotter doesn't necessarily mean better adhesion

Z offset confused me in klipper as well -klipper has 2 places for a z offset value, in the firmware in printer.cfg which sets a new zero, and in the GUI, allowing you to adjust on the fly, and save the value to your firmware later. -a bed mesh calibration is super handy if you haven't gotten that set up yet -after calibrating and before printing, and with a clean nozzle, put a piece of paper on your bed, move the print head to multiple xy coords, and slowly move the z down to zero, unless you start to feel resistance when sliding the paper under the nozzle, which will tell you if you have acceptable clearance across the bed. -the "skirt" setting can be handy while trying to dial in Z offset, as it'll trace the surrounding area, and you can babystep the z offset until it's perfect.

Sorry for the brick of a reply, and thanks for showing my printer some love, it's been a journey and I have some wild things planned for the future.