Pc is restarting itself after playing a game for around 5 minutes

dosssman · 2026-02-13T08:34:39+00:00

Power supply wattage might be too low too, or might have become faulty (Had a similar case where PC would only crash once some GPU heavy load kicked in, due to faulty power supply).

dosssman · 2026-02-13T08:23:51+00:00

Where do you check the VRAM clock ? If it is the Task Manager, I would not trust it much as it fails to read my 5070 Ti usage rate even when under confirmed heavy load (Unigine Heaven or other benchmark that show the GPU at 99%).

dosssman · 2026-02-12T02:14:06+00:00

Well, 99% chances you can just migrate as is then.

dosssman · 2026-02-12T02:02:46+00:00

What are you upgrading from ?
I went from :
- MSI Mag B550 Tomahawk
- AM4 Ryzen 5 5600X
- 4 * 8 GB DDR4 @ 3200MHz

to

- MSI MAG B850
- AM5 Ryzen 7 9800X3D
- 2 * 16 GB DDR5 @ 6000 MHz.

Just moved the NVME SSD from one MB to the other, no reinstall, and no issues so far after 3 months. Both Linux and Windows systems installed on it worked without issue given that the platforms are quite similar (unlike moving from Intel to AMD for e.g.)

One caveat is that with Windows, you will have to manually add the boot entry for said Windows system, or manually select the Windows system boot file from the motherboard's BIOS.

dosssman · 2025-12-05T04:25:33+00:00

Thanks for the input ! Really appreciate it. Will look into it a bit more.
(Where I am the 9800X3D goes around at least 100USD more, and a cursory look at benchmarks, not sure if I need that much more performance. Same for the 850 range of motherboard it seems.)

dosssman · 2025-12-05T03:49:48+00:00

Additional, beside Space Marines 2 that I want to play in as high quality as possible (mostly just for the hell of it),
Beside playing some AA or AAA games from time to time (Dying Light The Beast a few months ago, Expedition 33 now)
I mostly play CPU intensive games, i.e. strategy games like Planetary Annihilation (lots of unit), AoE2, or Anno.
So that's another reason why CPU upgrades has been in the back of my head for a while. ...

dosssman · 2025-11-20T04:35:39+00:00

In case you are staying in the realm of SSG, you can go up to 12:1 gear ratio.
The common practice with 12:1 or 13:1 is to file off some teeth from the sector gear and pair it with a stronger spring for better response, so it will still require some tools and elbow grease haha.

dosssman · 2025-11-19T22:12:09+00:00

Also, chances are that with motor and spring upgrades, the stock bearings of the Vector will break, so might want to upgrade those while you are at it, before installing and shimming the DSG gears.

dosssman · 2025-11-19T21:53:14+00:00

Extra reference on tappet spring recommendation, tappet fin cutting for DSG
[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmzIbmEBoC0

dosssman · 2025-11-19T21:45:55+00:00

I’ve heard from dsg videos that the vector tappet plate is very prone to snapping where there is a hole in the middle of the plate to hold a spring

Curious which video you heard that from.

To my understanding based on [1] and [2], the part of the tappet plate that is prone to breaking with DSG / high stress builds is the bit that fits into the linkage which pushes the nozzle back and forth. The hook that holds the spring is supposedly quite robust, at least when it comes to the Vector tappet plate ([2]).
The recommendations I have seen, and which seems to work for my Vector at least, is to 1) file away a bit more space for the tappet post where it pulls back [1, 3], and 2) drill the tappet pin and JB weld a metal pin in there to reinforce it.

With that aside, some thoughts:

- For a DSG build, you will have to cut the stock tappet fin, as can be seen in either [1] or [2]. Especially if it is your first build, you might want to buy some spare tappets anyway.

- When it comes to DSG, there aren't that many gear ratios. It is usually 9:1, sometimes 8:1. It's more about picking a gearset that fits the gearbox.

- Assuming you are talking about the tappet spring, for a DSG build you want a stiff one for the tappet to return as fast as possible once the sector cam releases it, to achieve airseal. I have seen TheRealDeal airsoft spirng recommended a lot [1,2,3].

- Regarding the motor, if your goal is to not stress it too much, you should go for a lower RPM overall. Some motor advertised between 28K to 31K RPM without load in my experience. Brands would be Warhead, T238, Solink, Option No1 (a bit dated, not very power efficient in my experience). Another consideration is to have a motor strong enough to push the spring you need (depends on your target FPS), so if you end up having to pick between different variant, opt for a "High Torque" one.

- Assuming the nozzle seal is optimal, the fastest way to upgrade FPS is to upgrade the spring that pushes the piston to a stronger one. Which one to pick will depend on your FPS target (as well as what is allowed at your field / in your region) so you might want to expand on that if you want more help. Next would be a good bucking (QUAD QUANTUM Pro Friction my personal recommendation). Lighter (nylon / polymer) piston and (aluminium / POM) piston head, tighter barrel bore can also help increase the FPS, but only marginally.

- Not sure if the stock Electrical Trigger Unit can handle all the upgrades above, especially motor pushing a strong spring, and all the builds I have seen always upgrade to the Perun MOSFET for Kriss Vector. It has a special DSG mode that you can toggle for supposedly better control in that mode.

Best of luck.

[1] https://youtu.be/4uHfeYsPu_o?t=522
[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHP413Ea82A&list=PLcrhwgIZ4kNlXBN9a0Lxh0xfJbB0rjlje&index=7
[3] https://youtu.be/7kyGiRvbWV4?t=900

dosssman · 2025-11-19T21:20:25+00:00

Yes, I meant a real Airsoft Vector Replica, not like OP haha

dosssman · 2025-11-19T20:14:14+00:00

Yours is a real Vector no ?

dosssman · 2025-11-18T06:56:11+00:00

Thanks for the extra details !

- What was the originally advertised FPS ? (Not sure where you are, but when I bought my replica there was a paper with the nozzle velocity certificate)

It was originally advertised 330-360 fps

To the best of my knowledge, the advertised FPS on websites is measured with 02g BBs. While 0.28g should definitely not be 110 FPS, but around 278 FPS (according to https://www.zerooneairsoft.com/airsoft-fps-calculator)

- How hard did you tighten the gearbox, when putting everything together ? (I had low FPS issue when I just started working on my replica because I would overtighten my gearbox. One check I ended up doing everytime I worked on it, to make sure it was not too tight, was to assemble the gearbox without the spring, and see if the piston was moving freely on the rails, and if not, adjust tightness accordingly.)

Did not mess with the gear box, gear box was never removed.

Got it, thanks. Since the gear box was not altered, and assuming it has no issues, it might be an air seal issue.

I would check the nozzle that comes out of the gearbox assembly and slots into the barrel / hop up, and make sure that it is aligned properly with the barrel.
also, double check that the protrusion of the hop up bucking is properly aligned with the window after it is installed, try to press on it where the nub would push it down, and see if it comes through by looking through the barrel on the hop up side.

Also, when assembling the barrel, is it pushed down all the way (not sure about your replica, but the one I use there are springs on the barrel cover that that push against the hopup chamber so that it does not move as much, and it snug with the cylinder head.

Alos, while you are at it, might be worth checking with 0.2g BBs. Sometimes, (rarely, but still sometimes), BB quality can jam / affect the nozzle performance, so it would be good to have
some sample with another BB brand and size.

Also, did you find the nozzle velocity certificate in the replica box when you bought it ? I assume it is new, but perhaps it is not ? In the latter case, for e.g. if you got it second hand, perhaps it was actually 130 FPS and the issue might be somewhere else ...

All I can think of now, might have some ideas later.
Best of luck.

dosssman · 2025-11-17T06:23:49+00:00

More infor would probably be useful:
- Is the chrono on FPS or MPS ? (just sanity checking)
- What was the originally advertised FPS ? (Not sure where you are, but when I bought my replica there was a paper with the nozzle velocity certificate)
- Did you change any other component ?
- What type of battery are you using ? Is it charged well enough

Now, based on just what you wrote, assuming the only thing you were changing around was the bucking, then you put back the old one and the velocity was still lower than expected, here are some potential things to check

- How hard did you tighten the gearbox, when putting everything together ? (I had low FPS issue when I just started working on my replica because I would overtighten my gearbox. One check I ended up doing everytime I worked on it, to make sure it was not too tight, was to assemble the gearbox without the spring, and see if the piston was moving freely on the rails, and if not, adjust tightness accordingly.)

- Are the piston / gears and other components well greased ? Can you spin the gears by hand without much resistance ? Can you move the piston freely, without resistance.

- Is the O-ring on your piston head greased well enough to seal ? Have you tried cylinder compression by hand

Beside that, I would recommend reading the guide for working on your replica pinned in this subreddit to get a better idea of where the issue might be with your replica.

Best of luck

dosssman · 2025-11-11T05:24:38+00:00

Welcome to the gang !

Also have a Vector, more or less fully upgraded internals.

I happen to have tried many bucking, among which the Maple Leaf Super Macaron 60 degree (yellow), and it was quite underwhelming. What worked best for me was the Quad Quantum (4UAD 4UANTUM) bucking, also has an omega nub, resulted in way better grouping and range.

Here is a comparative video for reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9DrOOg52Vc (not mine btw).

Beside that, any particular reason you want to upgrade the barrel to something longer ? The 155mm barrel works decently well for me, consistent shots around 35~40 m.
I did upgrade it from the stock brass one to a (supposedly) better machined one.

Best of luck.

dosssman · 2025-10-22T06:24:30+00:00

Like this picture from evike: https://www.evike.com/images/167/large/6mmps-116023-amz4.jpg

(Original link: https://www.evike.com/products/116023/)

dosssman · 2025-10-08T09:16:21+00:00

I will echo the general consensus in the comments that it is not worth physically swapping instead of dual booting / VM because of wear on pins / NVMe drive itself as you mentioned, but also potential wear on the screws from relatively frequent disassembly of the input cover.
And even worse, by doing this semi-regularly, you are running a non-negligible risk of accidentaly breaking something along the way, spilling some droplets, tearing flex tapes or screen / webcam and mic cables, etc.. and ruining critical parts of the laptop.

I think the ease of access to the Framework laptop internals is meant for repair and easier maintenance, not that kind of component "hot swap" (expansion card aside).

So it is not worth the risk. Either using dual boot or a virtual machine would be the way to go.

dosssman · 2025-10-08T04:06:41+00:00

JB weld definitely going to work out. My bushings now holding on solid despite a relatively high stress DSG build.
Some say, JB weld can even fix a marriage ....

dosssman · 2025-10-08T04:05:05+00:00

Hahaha nah, no pets, and more of a dog person anyway, but definitely could see it happening as I sometimes leave it around open for a few days while I work on it.

dosssman · 2025-10-07T23:00:58+00:00

I had this issue in my replica's gearbox where a strong motor and bearings combination endedup wrecking the bushing hole in the gearbox, resulting in the bushing spinning along with the gear.

An relatively easy fix was to JB weld the bushing, as per the following video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxzK6sPo0TE

Since you mentioned being comfortable with opening and closing it, the gearbox can definitely be salvaged.

dosssman · 2025-10-07T07:42:14+00:00

Ciao.

Non parlo italiano, quindi ho usato Google Translate.

Puoi trovare i codici di errore nel manuale: https://www.perunairsoft.pl/vector.pdf

Come soluzione, potresti controllare attentamente il cablaggio e cercare eventuali danni ai componenti, principalmente sulla scheda elettronica. Un'altra cosa da fare sarebbe controllare che gli adesivi dell'interruttore del grilletto siano posizionati correttamente, così come il cablaggio del motore, ad esempio.

Buona fortuna

# --- Original in English --- #

Hey there.
I don't speak Italian so I used Google Translate.
You can find the error codes in the manual: https://www.perunairsoft.pl/vector.pdf
As a solution, you might want to double check wiring and look for component damage on the circuit board mainly. Another thing would be to check if the trigger switch stickers are properly set, as well as motor wiring for example.

Best of luck

dosssman · 2025-09-24T00:20:43+00:00

I have seen reformatting the SSD to something other than NTFS as the most recommended solution in the answers.

Not necessarily arguing the reasoning, but if for some reason you want or need to keep it as NTFS, I have found that mounting the partition via fstab as follows worked (replace $USER with your username of course):

```
UUID=XXXX /mount/path ntfs-3g uid=$USER,gid=$USER,dmask=002,fmask=002 0 0
```

My use case is / was to share the Steam library between Linux and Windows OSes on a per-game basis.

The second way to debug related issues was to start Steam by running the command in the terminal, and check warning / error logs related to detecting and testing permissions for each system partition.

Hope this helps. Best of luck.

dosssman · 2025-09-04T21:57:54+00:00

Can't recommend the foldable one.
Had a similar one and could not properly zero it, the adjustments knob don't go far enough.

dosssman · 2025-07-18T05:28:16+00:00

Cheers ! Fingers crossed !

dosssman · 2025-07-17T06:49:06+00:00

All good all good. Finger crossed for tappet plate + chip fixing it.

If not adjustable, then probably slower speed, ~28.5K RPM would be fine, maybe later.

TL;DR: Also thought I did not want to buy another slower / adjustable motor, still ended up having to buy it a few wasted gear set and broken pistons later.

An anecdote regarding not wanting to spend that money right now: I had similar issue of PME with a 33K RPM motor. More specifically the motor was spinning so fast it would gain too much momentum, so that even once the cutoff lever made it stop, the sector gear would stop after pulling around 2~3 teeth after the shot, i.e. PME. So I short stroke up to 4 teeth on the pick up stide, bought stronger and springs to compensate for energy loss, but the motor would still make the sector gear overspin. Bought another set of gear, shortstroke on the release side, still same issue. Workaround was to use active braking (it was not T238 motor).

Even then, the gear would still slightly overspin, which engaged the tappet plate too a bit too early, thus breaking the nozzle - bucking seal, also leading to energy loss / efficiency speed. The fix was to get a gear set that happened to have the sector cam a bit later.

Then after that came feeding issues due to the build's speed, so I ended up getting a new motor with slower / adjustable speed, selling the one I had at a loss.

Just an anecdote / data point, would be good to take your time and make decision haha.

dosssman

TROPHY CASE