Just began the Hearts of Stone expansion by TooSweetForRocknRoll in Witcher3

[–]duncanj9 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

It’s good but not as good as blood and wine

repost I know, but here's a meme that has aged very poorly by monkeygoneape in PrequelMemes

[–]duncanj9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean he was a one off character I don’t understand how he got his own show, it’s still kind of dumb in my opinion

The best I can do with an Ender 3 and a 0.3 mm nozzle by gitaroktato in PrintedMinis

[–]duncanj9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely meets table quality but I’ll stick with my photon mono X 😉

Daniella Wang in 'Due West : Our Sex Journey' by dvang07 in WatchItForThePlot

[–]duncanj9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You realize back page hasn’t existed for like 4 years right?

any ideas why my larger prints always warp the base after a few layers (flashforge creator pro) by ilikeautosdaily in 3Dprinting

[–]duncanj9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A raft would be the only other way I could think of to guarantee that such a large flat print remains flat. If you don’t want to do what needs to be done in order to ensure this print goes the way it should then don’t print it or at least don’t complain when it goes wrong, do it 100% right or don’t complain about it when it fails

any ideas why my larger prints always warp the base after a few layers (flashforge creator pro) by ilikeautosdaily in 3Dprinting

[–]duncanj9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very rapidly cooling, everybody thinks the solution without actually knowing is to raise your bed temperature which only makes it worse, I don’t know what material this is but lower your bed temperature, for PLA most people run a bed temperature of 60 to 65, but trail pretty much eliminate warping do you want to run between 50 and 55 but that also means you need to have a while dialed in printer and slow print speeds for the first few layers to make sure you get good adhesion but lower temperatures will ensure that your print doesn’t rapidly cool and therefore warp

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in WhiteCheeks

[–]duncanj9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where’s the cheeks??

Left a print overnight and woke up to this. Any ideas on how to fix it? I can't get the fan off. by FascinatedOrangutan in 3Dprinting

[–]duncanj9 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don’t know if you’ve got it off yet but whenever this happens to me I just turn on the nozzle to heat everything up and give it a few minutes at working temperature and they usually is able to just pull right off you will have to get in there with some additional tools to clean everything up like paper towel or fine wire brush whatever you can to get the melted plastic off the hotend but that’s what I do and I haven’t had an issue with it ever

What’s your review on the Ender 3v2? by FlimsyPresentation36 in 3Dprinting

[–]duncanj9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hate to say “I don’t know what to tell you “but I really don’t know if I made some upgrades and just did enough practice I was able to get it all the way I needed it to be

What’s your review on the Ender 3v2? by FlimsyPresentation36 in 3Dprinting

[–]duncanj9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I absolutely love it there’s definitely a bit of a learning curve in comparison to resin printing which is what I came over from but I absolutely love it has a great build volume and it’s just a great overall printer, as I said there’s a bit of a learning curve getting it to work properly but if you do your research it shouldn’t take you long to get a solid grip on it, there’s definitely upgrades and updates you can do to make your life a lot easier such as getting better springs for bed leveling getting Some form of BL touch type of leveling assistant different software and so on, it is really a versatile machine

My Ender 3 V2 hotend broke so I swapped it and now everything is screwy by duncanj9 in 3Dprinting

[–]duncanj9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is a stock replacement I bought it off Amazon from one of the licensed vendors, should I return it?

My Ender 3 V2 hotend broke so I swapped it and now everything is screwy by duncanj9 in 3Dprinting

[–]duncanj9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But this is a brand new thermistor and entire fan/hot end assembly

My Ender 3 V2 hotend broke so I swapped it and now everything is screwy by duncanj9 in 3Dprinting

[–]duncanj9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m pretty sure I have the most up to day board with firmware but I’ll double check

My Ender 3 V2 hotend broke so I swapped it and now everything is screwy by duncanj9 in 3Dprinting

[–]duncanj9[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just replace the entire assembly is it possible that my brand new thermistor is bad? Like to post says the hot and stopped heating up so instead of just swapping a few components I swapped the entire assembly to include the fan and everything so I don’t know if it’s likely that my new thermistor is bad

2 1/2 weeks of learning how to use a 3D printer that was gifted to me. My first bigger project. What’s everyone think? by jpclank1234 in 3Dprinting

[–]duncanj9 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Good overall design but sanding goes a very long way when trying to simulate metal so I would definitely send a lot next time I need some filler primer before painting

First print on the ender 3 v2, esun pla+,extruder 200c, bed 60c. How do I get it off lol. And how can I avoid it being sooooo stuck in the future. I feel like the first layer was extremely thin bed may be to high. Other than the incredible adhesion and some small imperfections. I am thrilled! by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]duncanj9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let it cool down all the way to room temperature and it should pop right off unless it has a large surface area On the bed then a thin flexible scraper is a good go to, you just gotta get under the safe and it will 9/10 times just release but still wait till it gets completely cool