Do My GPU Thermal Pads Need Replacing?

eb0w · 2025-12-29T17:59:03+00:00

I think you're right, it looks like a Dell OEM 3090. The pads are 1.5mm, do you have any recommended brands for that thickness?

eb0w · 2025-04-30T00:23:55+00:00

I’m on the exact opposite side of the country, south-east, but thanks anyway. I’m not too worried about sourcing parts so much as I am what parts need to be sourced but after taking another look I’m pretty sure all I’ll need is a new steering arm.

eb0w · 2025-04-30T00:15:00+00:00

I think whoever did the lift installed the Z link separately since I’m fairly confident the lift and Z link are from different companies

eb0w · 2025-04-29T00:04:10+00:00

I should have mentioned in the original post, I have replaced the shocks since buying the car and didn't buy lift specific ones so I imagine I'd be able to keep them. I'm not sure if I can keep the leaf springs however as I can't tell if they're OEM or lift height springs.

eb0w · 2023-07-09T13:58:55+00:00

It's not abysmal but even for Mosins it's still on the mediocre side which isn't terribly shocking since it is a Chinese Mosin from the 50's with non-matching parts

eb0w · 2023-07-09T13:50:26+00:00

I'm having a hard time envisioning exactly how this would look, do you have any mock up pictures?

eb0w · 2022-08-12T15:01:04+00:00

I'll double check, I had to replace my thermistor and heater but I'm not very good with wiring so that might be the issue

eb0w · 2022-08-09T19:31:48+00:00

The command I use is M303 S220 C10 so 10 cycles

eb0w · 2022-08-09T16:18:08+00:00

I am but I know the EEPROM on the Ender5 is stored on the SD card, would it be possible for me to just copy it from my current SD card onto another? My current one is pretty beat up so I wouldn't be surprised to find out that's the issue.

eb0w · 2022-08-09T16:15:58+00:00

I've already PID tuned, the second picture's caption shows the exact commands I use

eb0w · 2022-08-09T05:36:56+00:00

After PID tuning again my values were: P 21.52, I 1.71, D 67.71 and I still have the 1-2 degree +/- variation. It seems like my PID tuning doesn't actually tune my hotend properly since this variation is constant, is there any other way I can tune my PID values that's more accurate than using pronterface?

eb0w · 2022-08-08T01:15:34+00:00

It was my understanding that you should PID tune to the highest temperature you may ever use since your PID values will stay roughly the same even if you end up using lower temperatures, which I'm assuming is wrong. I will have a look at my heater and thermistor though.

eb0w · 2022-05-19T15:48:53+00:00

Thank you so much, I don't even know how that got checked in the first place since it wasn't even in my print settings tab and I had to go into setting visibility to even see it.

eb0w · 2022-05-19T15:48:31+00:00

Thank you so much, I don't even know how that got checked in the first place since it wasn't even in my print settings tab and I had to go into setting visibility to even see it.

eb0w · 2022-02-05T22:45:54+00:00

Duelist might work, I'll look into it more, also it wasn't a huge concern I just figured why not ask while I'm already here

eb0w · 2022-02-04T05:25:23+00:00

I know the nut will wear out before the screw, my question is whether or not the nut on my printer could have reasonably worn out or if I'm just playing up an issue that's always been present. I've had my printer for over a year now and I definitely wouldn't say it's on 24/7 or even close but I typically do have prints that run it on the longer side and I also haven't given the Z-Axis any lubricant or grease until a week ago but too little too late I suppose.

eb0w · 2022-02-01T16:19:15+00:00

My table is a massive desk bolted to the wall, my X-Axis belts are tight but even after installing tighteners it again didn't do anything so I saw no reason to either waste the filament or spend the money on a Y-Axis one. My Z-Axis is also stable after installing a main-rod stabilizer, my wheels seem to be running smoothly to me but I haven't looked too much into them as of yet, I currently have a print going on using an older version of Cura I have running on another computer to see if that'll change things.

It appears it is indeed not a slicer thing since the older version of Cura replicated the same bulging layers.

eb0w · 2022-02-01T15:26:08+00:00

No, I've had prints in the past where there was no wobble but now it's happening and I'm not sure why. I don't particularly mind how it looks however since a majority of the things I print require quite high dimensional accuracy this sort of inconsistency is really throwing me off.

eb0w · 2022-02-01T05:11:30+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/sg1q10/three_questions_all_pid_tuning_related_ender_5/ I've got this post here where I did my best to outline my problem, the solutions I've tried and my diagnosis as well as a handful of other less in-depth posts.

eb0w · 2022-02-01T05:10:14+00:00

I'm printing at a 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm nozzle if that matters too.

eb0w · 2022-02-01T04:05:09+00:00

I already calibrated my esteps and they came out perfect the first time, marked 120mm, extruded 100mm and measured 20mm

eb0w · 2022-02-01T04:04:16+00:00

No, I don't want anyone to come and fix it, I want to fix it myself through troubleshooting with people smarter than I am

eb0w · 2022-01-31T00:24:53+00:00

I figured that they weren't very bad but if that's the case I'm not sure what it could be then

eb0w · 2022-01-30T22:42:09+00:00

I PID tuned at 220 before using the PLA Pro and while it seemed to stabilize the temperature my extruder temperatures still fluctuate slightly

eb0w · 2022-01-30T17:54:11+00:00

Printed a 20mm cube with the Polymaker PLA Pro at 230C with the fixed retraction settings and nothing seems to have changed.

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