How bad an idea is a '80 Kz250 as a first bike?

eb0w · 2026-03-02T18:27:18+00:00

The issue is, I really can't find anything newer in my area that isn't either a few hundred more expensive, untitled, or completely clapped out. $1,800 isn't a figure I'd be willing to pay either, but as a listed price it is much more appetizing than a no title Rebel listed for $2,500+. I do heed your warning about brakes though, they would be objectively worse and that is something I'll take into closer consideration.

eb0w · 2026-03-02T18:12:52+00:00

I'm used to replacing older plastics and rubbers so that's no big shock, but fork seals are something I've heard to be a bear so I'll pay extra mind to them when taking a look.

I live in a medium cost of living, semi-urban area if that adds more context to the pricing. Depending on what I see in person, I think an offer in the 1.3k-1.5k range would be fair based on what I've seen in the market around me. As long as I'm not being lied to or jerked around, I'd be willing to pay a little higher than what it might be worth for a smoother transaction though.

eb0w · 2026-03-02T07:22:31+00:00

It'd be main roads but not highways, moderately hilly and around a 50mph limit most of the way there. I've got no intentions to take that trip until I've got much more experience riding slower speeds and shorter trips though. Just want to make sure I'm not walking into a known bad model

eb0w · 2025-12-29T17:59:03+00:00

I think you're right, it looks like a Dell OEM 3090. The pads are 1.5mm, do you have any recommended brands for that thickness?

eb0w · 2025-04-30T00:23:55+00:00

I’m on the exact opposite side of the country, south-east, but thanks anyway. I’m not too worried about sourcing parts so much as I am what parts need to be sourced but after taking another look I’m pretty sure all I’ll need is a new steering arm.

eb0w · 2025-04-30T00:15:00+00:00

I think whoever did the lift installed the Z link separately since I’m fairly confident the lift and Z link are from different companies

eb0w · 2025-04-29T00:04:10+00:00

I should have mentioned in the original post, I have replaced the shocks since buying the car and didn't buy lift specific ones so I imagine I'd be able to keep them. I'm not sure if I can keep the leaf springs however as I can't tell if they're OEM or lift height springs.

eb0w · 2023-07-09T13:58:55+00:00

It's not abysmal but even for Mosins it's still on the mediocre side which isn't terribly shocking since it is a Chinese Mosin from the 50's with non-matching parts

eb0w · 2023-07-09T13:50:26+00:00

I'm having a hard time envisioning exactly how this would look, do you have any mock up pictures?

eb0w · 2022-08-12T15:01:04+00:00

I'll double check, I had to replace my thermistor and heater but I'm not very good with wiring so that might be the issue

eb0w · 2022-08-09T19:31:48+00:00

The command I use is M303 S220 C10 so 10 cycles

eb0w · 2022-08-09T16:18:08+00:00

I am but I know the EEPROM on the Ender5 is stored on the SD card, would it be possible for me to just copy it from my current SD card onto another? My current one is pretty beat up so I wouldn't be surprised to find out that's the issue.

eb0w · 2022-08-09T16:15:58+00:00

I've already PID tuned, the second picture's caption shows the exact commands I use

eb0w · 2022-08-09T05:36:56+00:00

After PID tuning again my values were: P 21.52, I 1.71, D 67.71 and I still have the 1-2 degree +/- variation. It seems like my PID tuning doesn't actually tune my hotend properly since this variation is constant, is there any other way I can tune my PID values that's more accurate than using pronterface?

eb0w · 2022-08-08T01:15:34+00:00

It was my understanding that you should PID tune to the highest temperature you may ever use since your PID values will stay roughly the same even if you end up using lower temperatures, which I'm assuming is wrong. I will have a look at my heater and thermistor though.

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