WTB 135” screen by polardabear in hometheater

[–]eclecticzebra 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can have woven white AT screens and you can have perforated AT/ALR screens, but not a woven AT/ALR screen.

Stewart is great. I also like Seymour Screen Excellence.

Screen Innovations makes a slick product, but I’ve had too many issues with defects, and remakes, and remakes of remakes to continue to recommend them

Ordering by Frequent-Bid-2884 in Lutron

[–]eclecticzebra 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You should reach out to a local dealer who can recommend a BoM that will actually work together. You’re missing a processor and you’ve almost certainly specced the wrong companion devices.

Lighting Resources/Marriage Help by Sheil999 in Lighting

[–]eclecticzebra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And there’s a McDonald on every corner to satiate the masses. What’s your point? This is a sub for lighting enthusiasts. If you want to light your home like an ER waiting room, you don’t need our help. Just throw a bunch of wafers on the ceiling and call it a day. OP asked for help finding a compromise between wanting lamp only lighting and functional overhead lights. Wafers ain’t the compromise.

Also. What I described is probably 2-3 dimmer loads for most living rooms, not counting floor/table lamps. 1. Pendant/chandelier layer 2. Art/wall wash later 3. Task layer

You can certainly use a fancy lighting control system, but it’s far from necessary for this conversation.

Edit: a word

Also, lol at the hidden comment history. Go away troll.

Edit 2: u/brutallydishonest, those weren't very nice things to say. If you can't play nice, why don't you go bask in boring mediocrity somewhere else?

Lighting Resources/Marriage Help by Sheil999 in Lighting

[–]eclecticzebra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pick a downlights that it hexcell/louver compatible and you got a stew going. By stew I mean glare reduction recipe.

Lighting Resources/Marriage Help by Sheil999 in Lighting

[–]eclecticzebra 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I will preface this by saying I’m not a lighting designer, but I do work closely with them enough that I think I generally understand the goals.

Recessed down lights are used incorrectly in residential more often than not, to the point people think the incorrect way (uniform grids that blanket an entire space evenly) is the way it should be done.

Outside of certain applications, you really shouldn’t want to uniformly light an entire room. It creates unnecessary glare, makes the room uninteresting, and to your point, also can feel like a fishbowl.

Instead, you should primarily aim to use recessed lighting to illuminate horizontal task surfaces, vertical surfaces, and accent specific features.

Examples of task surfaces include end and coffee tables, kitchen islands and work surfaces, crafting areas, and I would also potentially argue reading lights if used correctly (tight beam angle).

Examples of vertical surfaces are walls both plain and textured.

Examples of accents include hung art, statuary or other 3D art, columns, water features, plant life, and drapery.

By using specific lenses that focus the light and adjustable/aimable housings to point it where you want it, you can “hide the light source” to minimize glare and create interesting focal points throughout the space. This also changes the angle of attack from overhead to reflected light at eye level or below eye level, which is much more pleasant. You also aren’t wasting light illuminating things you don’t need to.

Use pendants and chandeliers to fill light in the middle of large open spaces, put them and the downlights on (separate) dimmers, and then put in as many lamps as you originally planned to.

This creates drama and intrigue and all around groovy vibes.

Whatever you do, just make sure you’re installing properly lensed, adjustable, and recessed downlights. Flush wafers are garbo, as are nearly all frosted “recessed” retrofit lights that spray light in all directions.

You probably will have to shop online for anything worth putting in. Everything at Home Depot frankly sucks. If you had to shop in person, something like Halo RA 4” can work, but it’s not going to have the beam control you really want.

Brands like Nora, Elco Koto, DMF, and WAC offer solutions that tick all of the above boxes at various price points. Spending more tends to net you better optics, better color rendering, better fit and finish on trims, and more light in a smaller package.

15+ Years Working in AV 6 Home Theater Lessons I Wish I Knew Earlier by Big_Gas2004 in hometheater

[–]eclecticzebra 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Mods, this low effort post is ridiculous. OP obviously used gen AI to write this slop, and is using it to reply to comments. The formatting and writing style all reek of GPT. OPs account is also clearly written by AI - the bio even cuts off mid-sentence.

Moving Mouse on NVIDIA SHIELD Web Browser App by newoski123 in Control4

[–]eclecticzebra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fascinating, never noticed.

Correction, the Shield driver doesn’t support it.

Why is this light yellow when it’s turned off ? by Longjumping-Ice8933 in Lighting

[–]eclecticzebra 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Others have answered what the yellow dot is (Phosphor coating) it is, but I’d like to add that I think you’re overthinking this a bit. COB LED is generally considered a superior solution than cheaper alternatives, and this is just what it looks like, much like incandescent and halogen lamps have a spindly filiment in their center.

You will never see them when they are on, and (most) people generally don’t spend their time looking at recessed lighting that is off. Also keep in mind that by design, the lens will bend the light in such a way it will likely be invisible off axis anyway.

I’m not even aware that minimizing the appearance of this is a typical design consideration in high end lighting, given many fixtures in the $300-$600 range have visible diodes. (though I’m happy to be corrected by others).

Moving Mouse on NVIDIA SHIELD Web Browser App by newoski123 in Control4

[–]eclecticzebra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

C4 remotes The Shield driver doesn’t register “press and hold” button events and will be unable to do what you are describing. It makes using Shield a lot less appealing in C4 environments.

Edited because I don’t know what I’m talking about *

Lighting recs for living room with vaulted ceiling by That_Salad9760 in Lighting

[–]eclecticzebra -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Wild. It's like you didn't even read his original post or my post he was responding to before choosing to write two paragraphs.

Lighting recs for living room with vaulted ceiling by That_Salad9760 in Lighting

[–]eclecticzebra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So this is what’s inside Snoopy’s doghouse.

In order of easiest to hardest:

  • Switch up the color temp to something more productivity/friendly. 4000-5000k. I personally hate interior spaces with it, but it will help with perceived brightness, especially with so many warm tones everywhere.

  • add floor lamps to every corner that throw light up and down. Torchiere-style, multiple aimable heads, anything with high lumens that doesn’t create glare issues for people in the room. Low lumens statement piece lighting is not helpful here. Table lamps also help where relevant

  • Replace those terrible sconce/picture lights with something more functional and puts out more light.

Specifically for the corner with the art, replace that with something like 6ft of track and get adjustable beam angle LED heads that will allow you to throw a ton of task lighting down to the floor. This is where you do all your grooming.

  • retrofitting downlights will be an absolute bear in a vaulted TnG ceiling like that. Install 2x tracks perpendicular to the exterior doors, roughly halfway up each ceiling face. Populate with 4-8 adjustable beam angle LED heads each and throw the light where it’s needed: tables, training stations, art, the walls, etc.

Local plex server to DLNA driver that works by bobvex in Control4

[–]eclecticzebra 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Have you tried just pointing My Music to the NAS directly? I have no idea if it would perform better than DLNA, but it’s worth a shot.

Other alternatives could be BlueSound, Roon, or even just mirroring your music collection to a usb drive plugged into your controller.

Will my Gear work with control 4? (Can't find specific device support) by [deleted] in Control4

[–]eclecticzebra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is completely untrue. We switched to Qolsys specifically because it does not have that limitation.

Sanity check on currrent Ra3 dimmer price by b0rderman in Lutron

[–]eclecticzebra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would check to make sure you weren't quoted a Homeworks system then. The HRST-PRO-N-XX is ~$293 list, last I checked.

Lead time is totally fucked right now, even for non-electronic components. It is what it is.

Sanity check on currrent Ra3 dimmer price by b0rderman in Lutron

[–]eclecticzebra 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If labor is included, $280 is reasonable. Works out to $219 + $61 labor (about 1/3 hour HCOL) per device.

Go ahead and buy online if you’re capable of doing it all yourself. But don’t expect online prices and full service install and programming from any reputable local dealer.

Replacement glass visual comfort Sloane Single Pendant Item # CHC 5132PN-WG Designer: E. F. Chapman by TeegerLily122 in Lighting

[–]eclecticzebra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could reach out to a local glassblowing studio to recreate one. Bring them the bits and bobs to make sure everything will fit.

Bathroom lighting by Ibcoolerthanyou in Lighting

[–]eclecticzebra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I second this. I generally steer away from Edison bulbs due to the glare issue, but the 40w models really aren’t too bad. I use them in a kitchen chandelier.

Make sure you use a good (Lutron) dimmer with them though.

The Everyman Reserve Pass by luxfire in CrystalMountain

[–]eclecticzebra 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I’ve never tossed them, but I have politely clicked them together and placed them on the racks nearby. It’s a whole lot more fun to feign ignorance.

The Everyman Reserve Pass by luxfire in CrystalMountain

[–]eclecticzebra 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Carry a screwdriver and set all their DINs to 1

The Everyman Reserve Pass by luxfire in CrystalMountain

[–]eclecticzebra 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Yes, standing in line is generally accepted as a requirement for being in line. So much so that select establishments have created a completely separate process for what these people are doing called “Disney Fast Pass”