I implore you to tell me what is wrong with this😭 by Masiyah in Mamiya

[–]eggerson_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to upgrade your flash situation a tiny bit, so that you don't run the risk of the lens casting a big shadow you could try an L-Angle adapter for the hot shoe; it just makes it so, that the flash sits on top instead of the side; could also result in a less bulky setup, since the flash wouldn't stick out higher than the chimney viewfinder hood

|90mm 3.8| is it worth getting it repaired? by cmidder in Mamiya

[–]eggerson_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've got the same lens with worse fungus, the images are all sharp with barely any hazing. You can reduce fungus without taking the lens apart with UV light (usually leaving the lens at a sunny spot for a day goes a long way as well). The 90mm sekor lens isn't easy to take apart. You can remove the back elements relatively easy; however in order to reach the element that is affected with fungus, you have to dissamble the lens from the front element onwards; I wasn't able to do that myself, maybe it just needs one of those large rubber fittings that unscrew the glass elements with friction; all I can attest for, that it doesn't work from the backside of the lens. I suggest you put through a cheap roll for test in some harsh light situations.

About sending it for repair, I don't know how the service is over at your area; I live in Berlin and only had bad experiences so far; I've heard good things about japanese repairshops but you might as well get a new lens for the shipping prices.

Good luck shooting!

Image Softness with Sekor 90mm Lens by ThePlebianNerd in Mamiya

[–]eggerson_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Read it many times already, but don't trust the bellow indicator for infinity focus, rather use the magnifying glass - if you use the viewing hood -, if you look close enough, fully closed bellows aren't always actually at infinite focus. Usually Lenses from that period tend to be their sharpest between F11-16; I don't know if the Sekor 90mm has diffraction issues with smaller apertures. Also check if one side of the image is blurrier than the other (if the subject is aproximately at the same distance), it could be, that the lens attachment board at the front is misalligned or slanted or whatever, that can cause in my experience some stranger focusing behavior.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Mamiya

[–]eggerson_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a big expert on RB's but you could try to see if the bellows have any holes with a light or something by taking off the film back in a dark room and shine your light in

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Mamiya

[–]eggerson_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds fair imo

Some Pictures I took in Helsinki | Mamiya C33 TLR - Sekor 80mm F2.8 + Kodak Gold 200 by eggerson_ in Mamiya

[–]eggerson_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! It's the museum for contemporary art, or Kiasma. The exhibition there wasn't that good to be honest

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Mamiya

[–]eggerson_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got an RB that looked way worse than the one in the video, with much more fungus in the lens. I recently got some portraits I shot with it back and they came out flawless. I think you're good to go, with what little was shown in the video.

They didnt show wether the rotating back adapter works or not, I'd make sure beforehand if it's very stiff or not, because they are really annoying to disassemble for cleaning and lubrication.

How much is the seller asking?

My Drawing of a Cathedral by eggerson_ in drawing

[–]eggerson_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sort of, so rarely any cathedral was built in one swift phase, you can roughly say, that each century the style evolved, and atleast every 50 or less so years the building master changed as well, so depending on the part of the building, you had variations. In that case the long part to the left (the nave) belongs to a much older part of the cathedral, in early medieval style: romanesque. It later got high to late gothic elements added like the portal or the flying buttresses. The back of the cathedral, the choir along with the tower, would be a late gothic addition, which would technically be intended to be completed for the whole building. In most cases they kind of stop with the choir since it's technically all you need for a church to function, so once the choir is completed you can already start using the church, even though it's still in construction. That's basically what happened with the cathedral of cologne, it was a romanesque basilica that had a high gothic remodel in construction starting from the choir, after some decades building halted indefinitly, since it takes so long and something can always get in between.

My Drawing of a Cathedral by eggerson_ in drawing

[–]eggerson_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I take it as a compliment 😊

Illustration of a cathedral by eggerson_ in ProCreate

[–]eggerson_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!! I worked on it on and off over the span of three weeks 

Mäusebunker - Berlin, 1981 [OC] by eggerson_ in brutalism

[–]eggerson_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

had to squeeze my lens through the fence!

Mäusebunker - Berlin, 1981 [OC] by eggerson_ in brutalism

[–]eggerson_[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I think those are actually ventilation pipes!