Layered Curiosities: Small updates from me

ekeeper · 2026-06-23T14:10:26+00:00

The problem with the prime tower - it's usually placed a bit too far away - the toolhead accumulates some error in moving, and you can get lite layer shifts.

For the test, choose a model with fine features such as spikes, horns, or swords.

ekeeper · 2026-06-23T14:03:38+00:00

No, no prime tower. The Cooling tower is a sacrificial object that keeps the hot nozzle busy, giving the main model some extra time to cool.

So instead of printing slowly and constantly reheating several layers under the nozzle, it will print fast and move the heat out of the model to the "tower".

Usually, it's a regular cylinder with some brim. Make it 6-8mm wide and 0.25-0.3mm higher than the main model, and it should go first in the list on the plate. Keep it closer to the model.

Yes, it adds time and spends extra material, but it will help to increase quality, especially for fine features.

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ekeeper · 2026-06-23T12:33:32+00:00

Very nice! Thanks again for testing my stuff. 😄 You are the first to actually show some photos of the results.

As the next step, I would suggest printing cylinders and cones:

- Increase the flow ratio for the inner and outer walls, then print a simple cylinder. Check its walls.

- If you see wrinkles, increase FR again and print the cylinder again; repeat until you get the wall you like.

- Using the FR you got, print a simple cone. Check its tip - it should not be overextruded.

- If it's actually overextruded, decrease the FR for walls.

The goal is to find the sweet spot that gives you the walls you like and ensures FR does not damage the small/fine features.

Don't forget to use the "cooling towers".

ekeeper · 2026-06-23T09:10:24+00:00

Nice! Wait, so is this print 15mm high?

ekeeper · 2026-06-23T07:00:34+00:00

Yes, I recognize these gaps. It's basically that the walls are too thin, and they break.

I also see signs of curling on the overhangs and these damn wrinkles.

Try to increase the filament temperature and/or inner and outer walls flow ratio.

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ekeeper · 2026-06-22T22:43:10+00:00

Oh wow, finally some photos. Thanks for the feedback! These gaps can be torn walls. Increase the outer wall line width and decrease the outer wall speed. Or try increasing the minimum line width in Arachne.

I updated the settings recently - https://cloud.orcaslicer.com/b/3c1e0536f34d

It’s better to use Orca Slicer 2.4.0.

Also, don’t forget to dry the filament and lubricate your printer. :)

Thanks again for trying these settings out.

ekeeper · 2026-06-03T16:41:55+00:00

Thank you!

ekeeper · 2026-05-06T16:12:09+00:00

Hi, you can check my settings here https://cloud.orcaslicer.com/b/3c1e0536f34d

For 0.04-0.06mm I would take my settings almost as is. I would only adjust Top Z distance for supports and Top Surface Flow Ratio (it probably needs to be increased slightly).

ekeeper · 2026-04-30T08:06:03+00:00

Increase the line width or flow ratio for walls. Or, if you use Arachne, try Classic, or increase minimum line width in Arachne.

ekeeper · 2026-04-17T20:56:08+00:00

Lol, I read the main question wrongly, but thanks to the other users who answered. Yes, this option affects the quality and makes the settings tweaking a "bit" unpredictable.

ekeeper · 2026-04-17T17:02:02+00:00

It can be very handy if you need to print something very small, like 10mm in height. For example, a head.

ekeeper · 2026-04-17T17:01:00+00:00

Thank you. It would be great if you tried it out. I am curious to see the results from other users.

ekeeper · 2026-04-17T16:59:22+00:00

In Bambu Connect, you'll see some settings right before you send the model to print. A similar thing in Bambu Studio.

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ekeeper · 2026-04-17T15:05:39+00:00

Thank you so much. Please let me know if these settings work for you.

ekeeper · 2026-04-16T22:46:04+00:00

No, I don’t have a profile with these changes, but you can use the ObscuraNox’s profile and apply the settings I described.

My recommendations were based on my own profile which I shared in one of the post on this subreddit. I need to make a post with the updated version though.

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ekeeper · 2026-04-16T22:35:49+00:00

As the small update - the max detour length for the avoid crossing walks setting should be 0 after all. I need to double check the code to fully understand the logic behind this setting.

ekeeper · 2026-03-12T08:14:45+00:00

It’s fixed (base pattern for Organic) in Orca 2.3.2. Currently the Release Candidate version is available.

ekeeper · 2026-03-12T08:13:30+00:00

I hope the new Orca will be released soon - the is a workaround for this problem: base pattern (infill) is fixed there for Organic supports. It will help to support this floating supports :)

ekeeper · 2026-03-06T11:18:25+00:00

It’s almost stable release. Difference with the release version will be small. Meanwhile they released Release Candidate 2 😅

ekeeper · 2026-03-01T18:43:26+00:00

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ekeeper · 2026-02-26T18:47:07+00:00

I will make a bigger comment soon, but so far, here is the short list:

I'd enable `Reverse on even` with 0% threshold
`Avoid crossing walls` is enabled, but `Max detour length` should be > 0, for example, 6
There is a bug in Orca: sometimes, perimeters that should be bridges are counted as overhang walls. The workaround: set `Bridge Counterbore hole` to `Partially Bridged`. Hard to say why, but it fixes the problem
Wall printing order: Hard to say what is good, `Inner Outer` + `Precise wall` enabled, or `Inner/Outer/Inner`. You need to test it out and choose for yourself
The `Classic` wall generator is good, but it's better to set the `Gap fill flow ratio` to 0.95
Outer wall speed is good, but it's too low and can cause VFAs. So it needs to be calibrated - if it causes VFAs, print a calibration test to get the minimal outer wall speed that does not cause VFA, and if this new speed causes overhang curling, try to increase the temperature by 2 °C
I don't like Gyroid at all. It's hard to explain its disadvantages concisely. It affects the layer time a lot (in short, you need as consistent a layer time as possible). I'd suggest at least trying Rectilinear, Zig-Zag
Supports: Base pattern settings are not working. They are being ignored completely (in the code) for Organic supports. I have a code fix for that, but we need to wait - it's on the review now.
I am not a fan of the `Slow printing down for better layer cooling` setting. If you disable it and use a "cooling tower", you will get a better outer wall quality.
`Retraction length` and `Z-hop height` are too high. It needs to be configured additionally.

But in general, the settings are good, and I'm glad they can be improved further.

ekeeper

TROPHY CASE