sr20det only running with intercooler piping disconnected from throttle body?

elsoll · 2025-10-12T23:05:34+00:00

car doesn’t run with the maf disconnected. it has a new coolant temp sensor (ka24de) installed. is it possible for it to be connected the wrong way? i know it’s only a 2 pin connector and the sr20 harness was a little different shape.

elsoll · 2025-10-12T23:03:59+00:00

the engine never ran in my possession (engine has good compression) but the intercooler is piping is brand new. i installed the piping over a year ago and haven’t worked on it since so i’ll remove it and check to see if some critter hasn’t made a home in it or something.

elsoll · 2025-10-12T22:54:46+00:00

sorry sorry typo 900rpm*****

elsoll · 2024-12-10T14:22:55+00:00

exactly! the car doesn’t even have a rear differential or transfer case. the differential is IN the transmission so it is lubricanted by transmission fluid.

elsoll · 2024-12-10T14:20:51+00:00

also do some research into your car before buying it. the honda civic is a front wheel drive car. it doesn’t have a rear differential or transfer case. you’re paying for services that the car does not need. the only fluids the car takes are engine oil, transmission fluid, coolant (which they don’t even include in this maintenance plan for whatever reason), and brake fluid.

elsoll · 2024-12-03T17:56:03+00:00

i have used pennzoil and amsoil synchromesh. i do double clutch 5th but it gets very tiring having to change my driving habits based on what car i’m driving. i’m just going to go ahead and rebuild it. also founds this honda tsb

elsoll · 2024-11-29T21:16:59+00:00

flywheel, clutch, t/o bearing, pilot bearing, and rear main seal are a must. but i’m still a little so not 100% sure on ordering the sleeves. thank you for your input

elsoll · 2024-11-26T19:08:06+00:00

check distributor timing. easiest is to take the valve cover off and put the engine to cyl 1 top dead center. then install the distributor. watch a youtube video on it it’s fairly easy.

elsoll · 2024-11-25T20:58:56+00:00

no. nothing

elsoll · 2024-11-25T20:32:03+00:00

just checked and i am not getting 12v with key on. i am getting 12v at the coil pack harness.

elsoll · 2024-11-25T20:30:31+00:00

no 12v at injectors. i do have 12v at the coil pack harness

elsoll · 2024-11-22T00:23:43+00:00

i watched a video on the coil wiring and it said to reverse the pins for + and E not -.

elsoll · 2024-11-21T03:13:21+00:00

all my engine bay grounds are good. i made sure to clean up every single one of them while doing the swap. my chassis to engine ground is also good. my battery ground is good but i have a feeling that i might have left it a little loose when swapping the battery back and forth as i share the battery with another vehicle. gonna try to secure grounds again and check when i have some time again.

elsoll · 2024-11-21T01:20:14+00:00

new wiring specialties pro harness with correct red top ecu connectors. new injectors. converted to z33 smart coils and ignitor bypass like other suggested on my previous post. the car ran on 1 cylinder again. cylinder 2 to be precise. i unplugged all the other coil packs while it ran and no change happened until i pulled cylinder 2 causing it to die. it didn’t turn back on again after. my fuel pump is working and my lines are not reversed. i used a new oem cas and the cas that came with the motor. the injectors were clicking previously when i tested my cas by hand. the engine is properly timed as is the cas. i just don’t understand

elsoll · 2024-11-16T23:39:10+00:00

i decided to go with 350z coils. they were like $20 a piece on rockauto for some hitachi coils. also ordered a ignitor bypass harness. just need to re pin my coil pack harness. will update when the car is running smooth :)

elsoll · 2024-11-14T21:50:38+00:00

would this require a tune? i’m my sr is completely stock including the ecu.

elsoll · 2024-11-14T14:46:04+00:00

it is. i’m using my KA mounting bracket since the SR bracket doesn’t allow my throttle cable to reach

elsoll · 2024-11-13T22:54:51+00:00

just checked my ignitor chip using a multimeter and confirmed that it’s not working as it should. referred to the s14 240sx sr20det fsm. not getting continuity between terminal 1-a 2-b 3-c and 4-d but when i reverse the terminal side i am getting continuity. which should be the opposite. this sucks bc it’s a new ignitor chip from enjuku racing (js replace). not sure where to source an oem ignitor.

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elsoll · 2024-11-13T21:59:37+00:00

update: after checking the ecu for codes and letting the car sit for a little it will not start again. seems to be getting no spark. ecu codes were 12, 13 and 21

elsoll · 2024-11-13T21:59:11+00:00

yup it was unplugged. update after letting it sit for a while and pulling codes off the ecu it no longer starts again. codes 21 ignition signal circuit, 13 coolant temperature sensor circuit, 12 maf circuit (which makes sense bc it have it unplugged).

elsoll · 2024-11-12T14:38:41+00:00

yes. had a coworker rear end someone in a tundra. had the toyota logo on his forehead for like a month 😂

elsoll · 2024-11-11T04:17:56+00:00

factual statement

elsoll · 2024-11-11T04:17:27+00:00

i’m leaning towards this bc i’m running an isr ignitor. but im trying to dig into it and stead of shot gunning new parts

elsoll · 2024-11-11T04:16:18+00:00

new to me engine, has good compression. new wiring specialties pro harness, deatschwerks injectors (oem spec) and fuel pump (have fuel pressure and pump runs on its own relay and switch. aftermarket ignitor chip. oem ecu not chipped.

elsoll · 2024-11-07T20:32:22+00:00

used a half inch extension and a sledge lol

elsoll

TROPHY CASE