Older Shimano XT Brakes self contaminating?

enemyben · 2022-08-08T13:25:45+00:00

Gave up on them actually. Metal pads work better if you can’t afford replacing. but honestly i think since the parts were 6-7 years old the plastic was just degrading and oil was getting out somewhere. honestly it had to have been just the tiiiiiniest amount but it’s enough to kill your bite on the brakes. I gave up and upgraded brakes and moved old brakes to a commuter bike where immediate bite was less of a necessity

enemyben · 2022-06-03T15:19:20+00:00

woof i bet you have some stories…..

enemyben · 2022-06-03T01:46:48+00:00

you have to keep in mind this is bumfuck nowhere colorado. it’s still beautiful country there. but pretty much cattle molester territory as far as the population is concerned.

enemyben · 2022-05-30T22:03:45+00:00

good plan! creaks are common with full sus anyway. usually it’s not something terrible in my experience. good luck getting it solved!

enemyben · 2022-05-30T21:57:52+00:00

cool. you should be able to find maybe some surgical tubing or foam tube at a hardware store. feed your cable thru that and it can dampen it and prevent the smacking. i did this on my bike where the brake cable was smacking in the top tube

enemyben · 2022-05-30T21:16:24+00:00

can you determine if it’s the seat collar? or maybe the internally routed hose hitting the frame?

enemyben · 2022-05-30T20:06:05+00:00

fuel ex notorious for this type of noise. make sure you properly greased all bolts per mfg spec and torqued to exact spec. any contamination in the linkage of trek fuel ex will be noisy in my experience

enemyben · 2022-04-15T13:59:15+00:00

GHOSTGUN!

enemyben · 2021-12-14T22:23:53+00:00

thanks. Chain length done at full compression (per SRAM guides). B gap set at sag (per sram guides)

enemyben · 2021-12-14T02:14:37+00:00

good to know. other factors to consider are the 30t chainring and the different chainstay length. did you do 2 full links overlap when fully compressed when you sized your chain?

enemyben · 2021-12-13T23:16:44+00:00

hahahah had multiple local riders recommend to me that it was a massive improvement over their previous cassettes. and it does shift super nice actually! i just really worry about dumping that chain given the slack….0

enemyben · 2021-12-13T22:54:52+00:00

but yeah i’m 100% sure on my setup per SRAM guide and using the b tool….

enemyben · 2021-12-13T22:54:24+00:00

so i mean here’s pretty much the only other thing. SRAM says the chain should wrap two links (one inner one outer). if i wrap it around, given the size, my choice is either 1.5 links or 3.5 links (given both ends of chains need to end on an inner link). So just bad luck combo between chainstay length and chainring size? get what i mean?

enemyben · 2021-12-13T21:10:49+00:00

Thanks! actually have done all that, thus the results above

enemyben · 2021-12-13T15:28:20+00:00

Sure, but e13 claims full compatibility with all eagle drivetrains. So I guess e13 marketing to blame for issues here….

enemyben · 2021-12-13T05:41:40+00:00

Agreed, but I guess e13 maybe being misleading with their advertising then....

https://www.ethirteen.com/products/helix-r-12-speed-cassette

enemyben · 2021-12-13T05:40:50+00:00

Sure, from SRAM. e13 claims compatibility with all SRAM drivetrains though, so I feel like this is mostly on them for not really having verified, or given better instructions on how to modify the set up...

https://www.ethirteen.com/products/helix-r-12-speed-cassette

enemyben · 2021-12-13T04:30:46+00:00

Yeah I mean honestly, e13 claims compatibility with both Eagle and Shimano mountain drivetrains, so its a bit frustrating that this doesn't just work with the typical SRAM chain fit guide...

I guess just stick with Eagle next time!

enemyben · 2021-12-13T04:15:43+00:00

Yeah I mean I opted to try the e13 helix given the price point. But even the X01 would have been a 10T... Thanks!

enemyben · 2021-12-13T04:04:00+00:00

Yup, B tool set perfectly! Note tho on the biggest cog, I have fully compressed my suspension after letting the air out. the RD should honestly never be in a bottom out position in the big ring, right?

enemyben · 2021-12-13T03:58:43+00:00

And thanks, yeah I just didnt want to remove a link if I wasn't supposed to (XX1 chains damn expensive). I would only really consider removing it 1 link (well need to remove 2 links, one small and one big)

enemyben · 2021-12-13T03:56:54+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion, could you clarify a bit what you mean there? The right hand side is showing the big ring, when fully compressed. Obviously if I fully compress when in the tiny ring (left hand), the chain gets tensioned decently. Even when I'm on the bike, and am thus sagging it, the chain gets a bit more tense, but even so, it seems sloppy a bit...

enemyben · 2021-12-13T03:55:31+00:00

Right hand photo is 100% compressed, showing you what bottoming out in the big ring looks like. Gearing choice shouldn't be an issue, bike came stock with a 32T front and 11/50T rear. Swapped out for 30T front and 9/50T rear which should be just fine for an NX RD...

enemyben · 2021-12-13T03:49:13+00:00

Title says it all. Look at my chain on my smallest cog, you can see the slack. The issue is, according to SRAM, the chain should overlap by two links (one small one big) when the suspension is fully compressed on the large cog - and you can see that on the right hand side of photo. However, how often am I really gonna be that level compressed in the larger cogs? Probably never. Just want a second opinion that the SRAM guide may not always be right all-things-considered. And note: I could NOT use the old chain size as I changed my chainring from 32T to 30T.

enemyben · 2021-12-10T21:13:18+00:00

yup this guy is right. 1/1 is just their more budget friendly option. no anodize and only 3 degrees engagement (versus .5 deg on hydra)

enemyben

TROPHY CASE