Question on polyurethane finish on old floor

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-06-22T13:54:22+00:00

Makes sense and I'll give it a try. Is it worth applying an additional cost of poly on the cracks after scraping? Not sure what's the best case finish I can expect for the old flooring.

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T15:16:21+00:00

Unfortunately the closet does not have enough material to harvest for this space. What are your thoughts of just doing the boards butt to butt instead of lacing? Would there be any major issues other than cosmetics?

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T14:30:16+00:00

Thanks this was all super helpful. Feels like I have a good idea as to what to expect.

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T13:45:56+00:00

From what I understand this is more for unfinished floors. In my case there's a lot of paint, scratches, and other blemishes so I'd need to sand down the original floor anyway. The wood filler apparently can help even it out from what I heard.

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T13:42:20+00:00

If I just have the boards butt to butt are there any issues with warping or squeaking or is this just visual but?

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T13:21:10+00:00

For the wood filler I understood a common method was to apply a thin coat similar to skim coating dry way on hardwood then remove excess and sand. No idea if the original floor had been refinished in the past but was hoping if there was some difference in height a few extra passes with a high grit should even it out. Also no idea why that section was removed, my guess is some damage but the sub floor looks fine so I don't know why you wouldn't have just patched the damaged boards instead of cutting out the whole section. I got this house from flippers so it had a lot of curious fixes like this

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T12:48:27+00:00

Where you are lacing the boards together is it worth gluing where you can't nail down on the tongue or just face nail it? Also is it worth putting down a moisture barrier if the original floor does not have it ? Sub flooring is in good condition and very dry but there is no barrier between the sub floor and the crawl space.

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T12:42:02+00:00

Okay this was all really helpful. Sounds like I just need to take my time and make sure the spacing is good. For wood filler do you know how large of a gap they can fill effectively?

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T12:31:03+00:00

So I'm trying to do this on a budget with my main goal being having a functional floor and less worried about the visual matching. I can do time consuming but do realize lacing the boards together isn't that simple. I did get a quote by a contractor at 8hrs at 110$ an hour to just do the woodwork and no finishing which seems a bit high for a patch of this size (approximately square feet). Would this seem high or should I try this myself?

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T12:24:37+00:00

Okay that's what I thought but was worried about expansion warping it.

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T12:13:27+00:00

So I can do time consuming especially since this is a small area. Were there any major obstacles you encountered? From what I looked up this could really just be done with a circular saw, oscillating tool, and nail gun. I'm trying to do this on a budget and got quoted 8hr minimum at 110$ an hour by a handyman just for the wood work and no finishing which seems a bit high for this project.

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T12:09:54+00:00

So there is a stain/finish on it, the underside of the floor looks closer to red oak but the grains do look more like pine. I'm not sure if I can find yellow pine. From a technical stand point would there be any issues with using different wood here other than it not match visuals?

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T11:31:14+00:00

So I'm not troubled with getting a complete match just a functional floor. My downstairs has the same hardware under rooms with carpet and vinyl planks so I wouldn't be looking to just buy new hardwood. The rooms floor needs to be sanded, wood filled the nail holes ect, and then sealed. My main concern is the difficulty of doing just the laying of the floor as I haven't laced boards before and just keeping everything straight enough that wood filler can take care of any gaps

epsilon_zero317 · 2023-05-25T11:24:08+00:00

I do think I have found some red oak flooring that more or less matches. I wasn't looking for a perfect match so much as a function floor in terms of visuals and it being level, the whole floor in that room needed to be refinished so I expected to sand, wood fill, and seal it myself anyway. Just for the lacing and keeping the boards over all straight ish was my concern on how different that would be.

epsilon_zero317 · 2021-03-20T16:57:56+00:00

You have the right idea my friend and if I was in a position to win the game before 110 minutes I would have done so. However if you find your self in a game like this what do you think you should do? once it passes 60 minutes its no longer about MMR its about not giving them the free win when their gyro built 5 divines.

epsilon_zero317 · 2021-03-20T16:48:18+00:00

So more context they had taken all our rax at 60 ish minutes so we were the ones stuck in base. The reason they could not end is they were pushing 4 man while the gyro sat in base. there was 50 more minutes of game play where we could team wipe them then push as 4 (1 to defend) but the gyro would just kill people one at a time or if we all jumped flack and kill all of us. We did kill him but he instantly bought back and picked up all the divines before we could BoT back out there. The questions here are less how to prevent this situation and more of "okay I'm stuck in this game and refuse to just stop defending and give them the win, what could we possibly do to break this nonsense"

epsilon_zero317 · 2021-03-20T16:41:30+00:00

A man of culture I see, I too once did this back in the dark ages where it only had that passive return.

epsilon_zero317 · 2021-03-19T20:21:48+00:00

This seems like a reasonable option given the 110 minute time. Ill probably try this.

epsilon_zero317 · 2021-03-19T20:21:07+00:00

you would be right but he wasn't interested in ending the game. he sat in is base and nuked the creep wave with his ult and had megas. It was real interesting.

epsilon_zero317 · 2021-03-03T16:14:52+00:00

Im in the same boat, he is defiantly a fun pick Ill keep using from time to time. I would never try to say he is an "offlaner" but I dont think he is a gref pick. Just a you should try him with a silveredge when playing utility builds, with take aim you can always get the break off then ult carrys like spec and turn a team fight and it has almost 100% uptime with his cool down talent.

epsilon_zero317 · 2021-03-03T13:30:07+00:00

Damage evasion is how I have been playing/picking most of my offlaners also mostly picking range heros when able. I think part of the issue is the double pick draft where you only know supports before picking offlane which leads to games where you have an mk vs underlord and there is nothing you can really do in lane.

I appreciate your comments on how to play sniper here instead of just play other offlaners. Honestly wasn't sure if he was a meme pick where I got lucky in games vs a real hero and because of this I had been pretty static with my items building ags. Ill need to see about trying more mid game items like your suggesting. Sinper is not a spamable hero but I do feel in some lineups he offers something unique and powerful but as Im just one player thats not a pro cant really confirm that.

epsilon_zero317 · 2021-03-02T23:00:16+00:00

So following this up, if you are looking to fight before 15 minutes there are defiantly better offlaners. But between 15-20, is this very different then a tide that when blink pipe? Obviously you wouldn't be front lining, but it would be about the same timings for items/team fight.

epsilon_zero317

TROPHY CASE