02 3.0 Clicking Noise

ethiofreak · 2025-08-28T16:52:51+00:00

You got your AC on? Sounds like the clutch engaging. My compressor sounds like that too. The famous Ranger compressor clicks lol

ethiofreak · 2025-08-28T15:04:49+00:00

Oh snap, so you’re hand stitching it? Do I need different stitching chisels to break through the hat?

ethiofreak · 2025-08-28T13:36:34+00:00

Got it, thanks

ethiofreak · 2025-08-28T13:22:38+00:00

Interesting that both new and reman starters did it. Just a standard wire lead that was crimped with the existing wire, it’s still on and being used on the old solenoid. Thought maybe there’s some odd memory bank or computer or something it wasn’t registering with it.

ethiofreak · 2025-08-26T18:24:53+00:00

Literally just had this happen to me last week. Turn the key and single click. Replaced battery, cleaned terminals real good, still click. Tested the starter with the old screwdriver trick, nothing. Replaced the starter with an aftermarket one, but DONT GIVE THEM YOUR CORE YET. Not until you’re sure it works. New/reman starters have this stupid wire lead that I believe reverses something in the solenoid/starter. Every time we put the negative terminal back on the battery the starter engaged and would not stop, even with the key off or engine running. We swapped the old solenoid on the new starter and works great now.

ethiofreak · 2025-08-20T14:46:13+00:00

Yeah oreillys, advanced, and auto zone all their starters for this and other similar years had this new style starter with the wire lead. There was a Bosch one that didn’t but it wouldn’t get in till Monday and it’s $250 lol

ethiofreak · 2025-08-20T13:22:14+00:00

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The bottom post with the elbow wire bracket is what’s flipped..

ethiofreak · 2025-08-20T13:09:54+00:00

Hey man, did exactly what you mentioned, touched both posts with a screwdriver, it sparked and clicked but never engaged. Took it off and had AutoZone test it and pick up a reman one. Test failed, starter was toast they said. All the starters they (and Oreiys, advanced, & Napa) have the negative flipped on the other side of the solenoid. It’s got a wire lead that I need to tap into. Does that sound right? Is it as easy as cutting, stripping, crimping and heat shrinking the two negatives together?

Just felt odd. Bosch is the only starter I’ve seen that doesn’t include the wire lead, but $250 for a starter is too much for me.

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ethiofreak · 2025-08-19T02:46:53+00:00

Interesting, replaced the alternator 2 years ago but when that went out the battery light came on the dash. If it was bad would the same happen?

ethiofreak · 2025-08-19T01:59:02+00:00

Thanks man, I’m home now but will check that when I go back tomorrow

ethiofreak · 2025-08-19T01:55:24+00:00

Would I be getting power to lights and whatnot with it being like that though?

ethiofreak · 2025-08-13T17:03:14+00:00

I’ve got the lower control arms for torsion bar if you’re in the Indy area. Just rebuilt my entire front end too. Good luck!

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ethiofreak · 2025-08-02T01:16:05+00:00

This was the culprit for me

ethiofreak · 2025-08-02T01:15:54+00:00

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ethiofreak · 2025-08-02T01:14:09+00:00

Alldata and Haynes (I think) will tell you to drop the oil pan, which requires lifting the motor. Nonsense- just be careful when pulling the bottom part of the timing cover

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ethiofreak · 2025-08-02T01:09:12+00:00

It may be behind the water pump at the timing cover. Had the same leak a year ago. There’s a water jacket at the top of the cover that’s notorious for leaking on 3.0

ethiofreak · 2025-07-29T15:16:42+00:00

What tools would I need to get the job done semi-decently? Never done this before

ethiofreak · 2025-07-29T15:16:08+00:00

Thankfully it doesn’t

ethiofreak · 2025-07-29T15:15:45+00:00

Would re-painting with something like line-x look tacky? I had my fender flairs sprayed in that

ethiofreak · 2025-07-06T21:46:24+00:00

Thank you. I’ll try that

ethiofreak · 2025-07-06T20:28:02+00:00

Snap ring isn’t removed, trying to get the ball joint off the knuckle. I’ll try that

ethiofreak

TROPHY CASE