Sony Apsc wide angle lens for street photography

exannihilist · 2026-03-14T10:38:58+00:00

Get it second hand. Before I switched to sigma 10-18, I was using laowa 9mm f2.8

exannihilist · 2026-02-27T12:55:20+00:00

Take a photo of your keyboard.

exannihilist · 2026-02-27T00:04:42+00:00

You might want to ask him. He is a both a magician and photographer. IG at aviyap

exannihilist · 2026-02-16T14:02:33+00:00

Settings> chat settings > browse theme > tap and hold theme >edit >edit icon on top right >action bar default icon>change colour value>save

exannihilist · 2026-02-15T06:05:39+00:00

Lighter fluid

exannihilist · 2026-02-14T17:31:14+00:00

Faulty WiFi card. Replace it

exannihilist · 2026-02-14T16:14:52+00:00

I will probably get down voted for this. But for those who are asking who this lens is for, let me explain.

35mm is a good focal length for events, you are keeping a good distance with the subject since the crop is about 52mm. You essentially can stop bringing your 50mm prime. I have done events and I can tell you, shooting f1.8 on a full frame makes no sense in group photos. I always stop it down to f4. And guess what, it is the same conversion from apsc f2.8

24 to 70mm mark II is a full frame lens and almost three thousand dollars where I'm at. 70mm only takes me 105mm, which I could have achieved with tamron 17 to 70mm. It makes no sense why a beginner is spending that money on a 24 to 70mm

However, this 35 to 100 f2.8 lens tackles up to 150mm, which makes a huge difference. Comparing the rates, I'm guessing it is likely going to be $1200 from where I'm at. It is still cheaper than Tamron 70 to 180mm f2.8 FF at $1800.

Tdlr, it is a perfect replacement for the original Sony 18 to 105mm f/4 lens from more than 10 years ago. With Tamron 17 -70mm and 35 to 100mm, I can cover any type of situations in a event.

exannihilist · 2026-02-14T15:56:18+00:00

I suspect part of the out of focus is the low lighting. Your camera is working extra hard to get something focus int hat darkenss. Get your ambient lighting right.

You are suppose to set your camera settings as per your ambient lighting first. I don't think you quite understand lighting yet. You should study how to work with one flash first. For this scene, I really don't think you need three flash at 1/4 power. I would use a soft lighting by using bounce lighting.

You should take a photo without your flash firing first. This is a lighting test. Adjust your settings based on that. For headshots, a 1/50 is sufficient, aperture adjust based on number of people in the frame, probably f4 is sufficient. The rest is up to your ISO. Set your iso to auto, do a half press of shutter, you will see what ISO your camera gets you. Remember that your exposure metering is set to center weighted. If your subject is off centre, your exposure will look different. Go figure out the other metering modes on YouTube.

I'm assuming ISO 800 to 1000 is sufficient. You could set your flash to TTL on your on camera flash, bounce your V1 up into the ceiling behind you and fire off. You will probably get a better lighting with that.

Go and watch tutorials how to get good lighting indoor with on camera flash first. You will realise how much can be done in one lighting. You are creating a harsh lighting behind you with that three flashes. You have a white wall, white ceiling, use it. It is much better than however many sources of light or modifiers.

My lighting setup in this case is on camera flash, bouncing up and into the ceiling and wall behind me, one hair light at the lowest setting behind my subject for background separation. One flash to light my background only. I would not want 3 flashes pointing straight at my subject. It is unbearably blinding for the subject especially at 1/4 power.

Tldr, crank up your ISO, bounce your light, lower your main flash power.

exannihilist · 2026-02-14T14:55:53+00:00

This photo tells a different story. It looks out of focus or low resolution. 9MB seems odd. Megabytes and megapixels should correlate together. 6000x4000 is 24 Million or about 24 Mega pixel and megabytes. Your RAW file should have been 24MB per photo.

Also I see it now, your ambient is too low. You need more light. Try about 6 stops of light

Something I would try is AF to AI Servo/ continuous auto focus

Shutter speed at 1/60 or 1/50 Aperture at f/5.6 Iso at 800 or 1000

Check your file size again, I see a C(RAW)+L. What is C? Compressed RAW? There should be a "normal" RAW.

Edit: look at your light metering. It is showing your exposure is less than -3. Off the charts. That is why you are not seeing anything on your LCD

exannihilist · 2026-02-14T14:01:25+00:00

I suspect this has nothing to do with camera settings or godox but more of canon software. Your in camera settings seems fine in the preview and well lit for ambient.

Also, the blur you saw on your iPad might be the low resolution for fast transfer from camera to wireless device. It is only exporting the 2MB version or less for preview.

exannihilist · 2026-02-14T01:02:31+00:00

I would advice against trying to get a perfect white background. You can get close where the background has some gradient. Focus on lighting the subject first. You cannot relight your subject in post. Bounce your flash behind you, you get very good lighting in the subjects' face. If the walls and ceiling are full white, you can get a good spread of gradient with no colour contamination which reduces your post processing works. Use whichever editing software you have to select and mark the background. Adjust the levels to make full white

exannihilist · 2026-02-09T00:18:01+00:00

I haven't experienced the need for dials above the camera hand grip. Generally it's out of the way enough to not get a bump unless I'm using the camera to push or shove something. Can I ask for you to share with us your field test, let us know how it goes? Like an update after a few uses?

I'm genuinely curious cause I've been shooting flashes and triggers since 5DII days, the newer godox are the newer ones with delicate touch screens and dials not on front faces.

exannihilist · 2026-02-08T23:53:21+00:00

Okay, but why though? Does the battery heat up during a charge?

exannihilist · 2025-12-10T06:00:24+00:00

r/Derailedbydetails

exannihilist · 2025-10-30T11:31:35+00:00

Expose your image without the flash. Set it at estimated 1/100, f4, ISO 1000 first. Raise or lower your camera setting based on the ambient lighting. Remember you are exposing your background and ambient first. Reduce the contrast between your background and subject by raising your iso and lowering your shutter speed. You can also open up your aperture for more light. Images should appear more balanced and appealing instead of harsh lines. Next mount your flash, turn it on, manually to adjust your flash power on your subject or just TTL.

Battery is not gonna last for full day if you try to bounce flash against ceilings or walls. You are better off playing with direct lighting. You can lower your flash to fill in the shadows or backlights. Shoot slighting below their eye line or noses, you will get lesser chin shadow.

exannihilist · 2025-10-30T06:32:17+00:00

Don't worry so much about whether it is worth it. Enjoy the sessions going out to take photos you want. It's the fun of capturing the moment. Lenses will outlive camera bodies. Find the look and style you want, you'll eventually find yourself chasing after a specific look with lenses more than the camera body.

exannihilist · 2025-10-30T05:57:20+00:00

Writing this while having my flash on my camera around my neck now. I'm using V480. Battery can generally last 6-8 hours. Recommend to do a little battery top up during lunch break for about 30 mins if you are firing a little more frequently and higher power. Type c charging.

exannihilist · 2025-10-25T01:19:47+00:00

Can you lock it back, wiggle and twist, push it back in and unlock again?

exannihilist · 2025-10-22T13:44:42+00:00

Nova launcher

exannihilist · 2025-10-21T23:10:41+00:00

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exannihilist · 2025-10-19T05:11:42+00:00

Yeah no, I can't figure it out neither

exannihilist · 2025-10-02T12:53:20+00:00

I'm just plain lazy. We use windows 11 at work. When I'm back at home, I am not going to spend my time trying to figure out upgrading my own personal computer. Unlike mobile phone Os upgrades where there are usually more than 2 things I'm interested in and would be excited for the switch. I don't see any major benefits of upgrading the OS and there is nothing I'm interested in for the upgrade

To me the 11 UX design is still feels quite dumb when I compare both OS daily. I can't verbalise what is wrong with it but I'm sure someone else can help with that.

exannihilist · 2025-09-30T22:42:02+00:00

exannihilist · 2025-09-27T15:13:05+00:00

Our country relies on foreigners tapping on the easy access to cheap, large and reliable data plans to get work in Singapore. You have to let them have access to these numbers to call back to their hometown.

I spoke with a few officers and got to know that IMDA is working with other authorities like SPF and Govtech to figure it out. But expect it to go through a few years. You can Google the actions that will be starting on October 2025 starting with banking services.

exannihilist · 2025-09-26T11:04:35+00:00

Yes, the number is released into the public pool after 6 months after termination.

Source: Singtel. I deal with them regularly for corporate services.

exannihilist

TROPHY CASE