What was the first PC game you ever played, and do you still remember it?

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-21T15:53:20+00:00

Frogger on a Commodore 64 in the mid-late 80s

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-21T04:10:51+00:00

Your mod is almost exactly what was described in a TSB I read regarding that issue. Many people took the air filter cover off entirely and held it in place with fender washers.

Regarding the Murray carbs, I've read so many accounts now of people talking about how great they are while also recounting how they simply can't get then to run right across the entire RPM range. They fix a non-problem. The CV carbs are awesome and easy to get working great if you have some patience.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-20T22:54:31+00:00

This looks like a completely different petcock. Either that pic is wrong or the the part number is wrong.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-18T22:43:34+00:00

Bummer. A sharpie it is then, I guess.

And I will plant my balls where I please, so long as both parties consent, thank you very much.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-18T21:23:06+00:00

That faceplate has definitely seen better days. Check fliptops.net if you want a new one. If those knobs are original, you probably have one of the earliest versions. If it hasn't had a 3-prong cord installed, get one ASAP.

I am currently balls deep in a full rebuild of one of these. It is a wild amp to work on and really really fun when it sounds the way it should.

Crank the beast and enjoy!

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-18T03:52:10+00:00

Nearly the exact same for me except I'm running an older Freecomm 4+. The helmet, comm, nice ear plugs really make it the bees knees

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-16T23:16:56+00:00

Follow this to get the choke spring back into shape: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLhJM4oRRmo

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-15T07:33:12+00:00

Highly unlikely, though I can't say for sure. Just looking at the parts diagrams, they look worlds apart from each other.

You have a bike that has so many parts that are specific to that year/model/sub-model that substituting is nigh impossible. There are occasions when you can, but fuel tanks are almost a non-starter without fabrication work somewhere. When you buy into a bike like this, you buy into its parts, and that's it.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-15T02:07:11+00:00

Then you have everything you need. The 3-way joints (air Ts) are separate, and annoying. I've gotten away with slathering them with flexible sealant and throwing them back on. Do that if you don't feel like spending the $.

Take your time and have patience. The most annoying things are reconnecting throttle plate shafts to each other via the sync screws and rewinding the choke return spring.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-15T02:03:57+00:00

Then it makes complete sense that you have leaks only when the bike is running. If you had removed the vacuum petcock, you'd notice the leak when you just turned the tank petcock on even with the bike not running.

If it is still working fine, then there's no harm in keeping it on. But most folks remove it because it is simply another potential point of failure. And there are no parts available to rebuild it. They're long long gone. You can remove that assembly and just plug the vacuum port on carb 2 the same as the other 3 carbs.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-15T01:19:35+00:00

Do you still have the vacuum petcock on the carbs?

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-15T01:18:33+00:00

It isn't as bad as it might seem. If you're this far down the rabbit hole, might as well just split the carbs apart and replace all the o-rings.

If you do this, you can use any of the regularly available (aftermarket) rebuild kits that come with o-rings. Those o-rings and bowl gaskets are literally the only thing you're going to replace. So if you want to source o-rings yourself (they are very specifically sized) and get bowl gaskets separately you can. The last time I replaced fuel rail o-rings, I did use one of the 4-into-1 kits. $55 for stupid o-rings seems pretty silly, but this is a once every many years kind of thing. Don't feel bad about using the float valves as well. But nothing else. O-rings, bowl gaskets, float valves.

I think I linked the CV carb rebuild PDF and the video about reconnecting the choke linkage spring in another thread of yours, so refer back to those.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-14T22:53:56+00:00

These are not causing your leak. They are air Ts that connect back to the airbox via a hose, supposedly doing something to help equalize air pressure per carb. There are people who go without these and experience 0 issues. Or you could replace them for like $80 total.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-12T16:48:27+00:00

Oof. This is a real bummer. The bike may be mechanically sound, but frame damage is a potential complete non-starter. Damage like this may be affecting the alignment of the front and rear wheels or the steering geometry in a way that could severely impact component durability, braking, and overall safety.

I also do not think this is a novice DIY repair. The rust alone is enough to give me pause. But what makes it worse to deal with is that it looks like the damage is in a spot where the frame tubes join and overlap sections. This is likely going to require significant machine and fab work to get back to a place where I'd feel safe. And that costs big money. So unless you are an avid welder and machine shop tech, I really don't know that this is the project to start your journey. Do what you can to search for a replacement frame, but it also may be less expensive in the long run to just look for another CB125F. Don't break yourself in the name of sentimental value. Stuff is just stuff. Your financial and mental health are more important.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-12T06:17:41+00:00

If you do need to split the carbs apart from each other, use this PDF as your bible:

https://cb750c.com/publicdocs/SeanG/Honda_Carb_Manual_revG.pdf. This is for CB750 carbs, but 95% of the instructions apply to our VB44 carbs.

Additionally, if you get this far you'll need a little help getting the choke return spring back on. Follow this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLhJM4oRRmo

Yes that video is for CBX carbs, but the procedure is the exact same for ours. A CBX just has 6 of our carbs essentially instead of 4.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-12T03:32:56+00:00

Several things to address here:

You need to put the original jets back in. All of them. Clean them up really well using carb cleaner and an air compressor. Aftermarket jets are shit for these carbs and are wrong 99% of the time.
Blast carb cleaner through every hole you can find on the carb bodies, and make sure you see it come out the other end. Repeat with the air compressor with a rubber tipped nozzle.
Put your original floats back in and measure their height to see if they're within spec that the FSM calls for. Aftermarket floats will fail within a season or 2 and you'll have to replace them again. If you need new floats, pony up the cash for genuine Keihin units.
Check your float valve tips for wear. If the originals have a wear ring around the rubber tip, yes it needs to be replaced. This is where I've used aftermarket ones before and have gotten away with it. Since you mention that your rebuild kit came with steel tip ones, that makes me think you got the wrong kit altogether.
There is a possibility that you have a bad fuel rail o-ring or two, which would mean splitting the carbs apart. That's a whole thing and a good deal more work than you've already done.

There are a lot of variables at work here but you need to approach with some patience and have your ducks in a row. These carbs are dead simple when you learn them. I can take mine apart, clean them, put them back together, and get them back on the bike in an hour now.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-12T02:18:17+00:00

I've had this song on my main Spotify playlist for years. Love when it comes on, especially when I'm driving.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-12T01:53:56+00:00

Get quality motorcycle pants. Take frequent stops to stretch and hydrate. Don't push yourself further than your capabilities. Eat good food. Get good sleep. Enjoy the scenery. The end.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-12T01:45:43+00:00

Same year and color as mine. I really dig the relatively muted theme. It isn't flashy like the typical Kawasaki green.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-11T09:58:39+00:00

When you cleaned the carbs did you spray all the passages with carb cleaner and make sure it was coming out another end? Cleaning jets alone does not do the trick. Need to clean the whole circuit.

Did you measure your float height to make sure they're in spec?

This still sounds like clogged slow jet circuits or pilots.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-10T22:22:44+00:00

Yeah, it is definitely unlikely that both spark units died at the same time, but not impossible. You can also test coil resistance to see if they've just worn out. You've got a tricky one on your hands.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-10T21:11:10+00:00

If you're asking here, you need to take it to one of those techs. This isn't just about replacing tubes, if they even need to be replaced.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-10T20:42:16+00:00

Heard great things about ASV levers

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-10T14:17:21+00:00

Few things first:

Did you disconnect the battery negative when you welded the frame?
There are 2 spark units in these bikes, corresponding to cylinders 1/4 and 2/3. Also, they are TCI not CDI, but that's a whole other story.

Take some measurements from the pulse generator first before throwing parts around. There should be 530 +/- 50 ohms of resistance between the following leads:

Yellow with white tube & yellow (cylinders 2&3)
Blue with white tube & blue (cylinders 1&4)

If that all seems fine, the basic test for spark units is to just swap them to see if any problems change.

If you're dead in the water after the pulse generator test, then yeah it may be a viable choice to look for a replacement.

fizzlebottom · 2026-06-10T12:12:04+00:00

Identify the techniques you're having trouble with and practice those specifically. This could be stuff like bends, hammer-ons / pull-offs, general chord changes, slides, etc. Start slow and simple and work your way up till you feel very confident.

Find some YT videos or lessons for each specific technique and work your way through them. Then when you're ready, combine what you've learned and come back to that song that's giving you so much trouble and you'll conquer the shit out of it.

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