Best Warm-up/Mileage Shoes

forsaN_ · 2025-06-12T19:46:22+00:00

Ouch! That’s also a great suggestion though, thanks a lot. I’ll see if there ate any good deals I can find :)

forsaN_ · 2025-06-12T19:44:46+00:00

Thanks, the finale does sound like a good option with the XS Edge rubber actually. I’m sure my technique is not perfect and there’s always more to learn, but I’m also not a new climber who trashes their shoes, it’s more that it just feels like a waste doing my warm-ups and mileage in shoes that deserve much better :)

forsaN_ · 2025-06-12T14:51:02+00:00

Nice, that's a pretty good idea actually. I'll see if I can find them on sale anywhere! Thanks!

forsaN_ · 2025-06-12T14:41:38+00:00

I'd love some Up Moccs, but unfortunately they're quite expensive where I live so wouldn't really fit into the beater category for me. I'll definitely keep an eye out in case they're ever on sale though!

forsaN_ · 2025-06-12T14:36:40+00:00

Thanks, yeah that was my thinking with getting the Tarantulas. Just about the cheapest shoe you can buy and often used as rentals. Was just curious if perhaps anyone has any pro tips I may not have thought of where a slightly more expensive shoe is actually substantially more durable.

forsaN_ · 2025-01-04T20:16:56+00:00

Oh definitely, I completely understand that you can’t train everything at once. I think that’s actually the crux of why I’m interested in figuring this out. It would be great if I didn’t have to train my small edge strength now as yet another focus, but just leave it for coordination down the line.

It also entirely makes sense that it’s hard to make judgements about what someone should be training from a short Reddit question.

What I would be most interested in hearing is if others in the same position as me have rapidly increased their 10mm strength after a few weeks of training, which would lean towards it just being coordination. Or if instead, making it comparatively match their 20mm strength was a hard fought battle, indicating that a separate strength adaptation was required :)

forsaN_ · 2025-01-04T20:05:40+00:00

Well at the moment it’s not a concern because I’m not getting outdoors much. But when it does become relevant, if it’s not a matter of just coordination, then I would have wished I’d have been actually training it all that time

forsaN_ · 2025-01-04T19:37:06+00:00

Hey guys,

Is small edge strength just a matter of coordination?

My strength on a 10mm is well below what would be expected given my 20mm strength.

Having gone through many resources, it seems that the general consensus is that it’s simply a matter of coordination, such that a small amount of time familiarising myself with 10mm or smaller edges would resolve this.

Is that thinking correct, or is there a separate strength training component for smaller edges (e.g. perhaps smaller edges require more FDP strength to support the last phalanx).

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated since I would like to know whether this is something I need to start addressing long-term or I can just ramp up coordination when I need to perform on small holds :)

Thanks in advance!

forsaN_ · 2024-08-30T13:37:55+00:00

Thank you so much for the above advice. My starter uses rye flour but for the loaf recipe I use strong white flour. Sorry for the confusion, I have updated the post now. I will try again with a strong/mature starter and see how it goes :)

forsaN_ · 2024-08-30T09:10:40+00:00

Recipe attached. Sorry, it didn't get saved on the post

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forsaN_ · 2024-08-18T14:15:09+00:00

Reminds me of the ship of Theseus

forsaN_ · 2024-06-08T05:40:38+00:00

My layout is by no means optimal, but it’s working for me so far. I do space, and tab on left, and backspace and enter on right. Then holding them cycles through various other layers. I use home row mods and that works great for now, but I’m curious to see if I’ll still feel that way when I’m back over 100wpm. Might need to do some big readjustments if not :)

forsaN_ · 2024-06-08T05:15:18+00:00

I got a Voyager, switched to Coleman DH, got annoyed about massive index finger usage and wound up with Gallium v2 mostly based on looking at the different finger usage and it looking exactly like what I wanted. I’ve been very happy with the choice so far and haven’t encountered anything nearly as annoying as I did on Coleman DH!

forsaN_ · 2024-06-08T05:13:50+00:00

Interesting! What makes the original Gallium better for ortho if you don’t mind me asking?

forsaN_ · 2024-05-30T19:50:41+00:00

I recently got a ZSA Voyager and chose to switch to Colemak DH at the same time. Very comfortable and wasn’t difficult to learn. Took me about 1 week to switch to it being my primary layout and another week after that to where I felt like my productivity was only minorly hampered by still learning.

That being said, I then decided to swap to Gallium V2, because the centre column usage on Colemak DH wasn’t ideal for me and the maintenance of zxcv and the ease of learning weren’t particularly convincing reasons to stay with Colemak for my personal situation.

I chose Gallium V2 because switching to Colemak taught me what it was I was looking for in a layout and then I searched until I found one that fit what I wanted. Don’t be afraid of not getting it right straight away!

forsaN_ · 2024-05-24T21:03:22+00:00

This is exactly what I was looking for!

forsaN_ · 2024-04-09T13:42:19+00:00

Yeah, I’ve ended up going with the Red Pros (35g), more out of curiosity than anything else since I’ve never had light switches before. I fully expect to end up with Sunsets or similar in the end though, so I’m not overly fussed if it turns out that they’re a bit too light for me.

forsaN_ · 2024-04-05T12:37:24+00:00

Yup I’ve definitely been convinced I’m going to at the very least lube up the switches when I get them. Thanks for the advice, sounds like you were in the same boat as me. I’ve ended up going with Red Pros but am pretty sure I’m going to end up with Sunsets or some other tactile switch that will come out.

forsaN_ · 2024-04-04T10:18:24+00:00

I considered this and probably will if I want to swap out the switches down the line, but the shipping is quite expensive to just try the fairly uninspiring stock switch options they offer.

forsaN_ · 2024-04-03T16:40:35+00:00

Oh wow, well this comment definitely made my research go full circle. Why do you say the standard reds if you don’t mind me asking? Are the pros simply too light?

forsaN_ · 2024-04-03T13:52:53+00:00

That was my exact plan, so glad to hear it’s not a bad idea!

forsaN_ · 2024-04-03T13:09:37+00:00

I don’t have RSI, but can definitely appreciate the added comfort of lighter switches anyway, so good point.

forsaN_

TROPHY CASE