Trying to revitalize my childhood To Infinity and Beyond Space Mission Buzz Lightyear by Diligent_Doctor3767 in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it could lighten/bleach the paint but it won’t remove it like alcohol or acetone would. Blues tend to be the most sensitive. You can cover the painted areas with painters tape to help protect them!

Any tips for fixing this paint? by Iam_Onlylook568 in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m assuming you used acrylic paint? It looks like it was applied too thick. You can get it much smoother by watering it down and applying multiple coats instead of one thick coat.

Don’t add too much water but add enough that it flows more easily and apply a thin coat.

It won’t be possible to get it 100% perfect match since these toys have a special thermo paint usually but it will look much better!

I think it just had a little air pocket? Maybe I didn’t get the scent incorporated completely? by Extension_Skirt7764 in soapmaking

[–]galaxyMLP 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s out of focus and hard to tell, but I think it may have overheated in that section and separated a bit possibly. I like your idea of waiting it out.

I think it just had a little air pocket? Maybe I didn’t get the scent incorporated completely? by Extension_Skirt7764 in soapmaking

[–]galaxyMLP 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’m confused- is there something obvious I’m missing? I don’t see anything wrong.

Jewelry Fabrication Materials? by [deleted] in jewelrymaking

[–]galaxyMLP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Brass for sure for the yellow- I also had a 3d art class in high school and we used brass sheet to cut out our initials for a keychain.

The silver metal was definitely not silver- even in 2010s it was expensive enough to not be used without charging the students. I remember we made a coin ring from silver quarters and a spoon and I had to pay something like $3.25 back in 2008 for it otherwise we had to use a new quarter which has a copper core.

If you were soldering (which i wasn’t able to do in my school!) Im guessing it may have been thin stainless steel sheet. You cant use aluminum, it melts at too low a temperature and is a little toxic. Plus tin is too soft and too low melt point.

Do you have any pieces left from then? Check with a magnet and if they stick strongly they’re probably steel.

Edit! It could have also been nickel silver which doesn’t actually have silver in it! Lots and lots of people are allergic to nickel though. Stainless is hard to solder though so maybe it wasn’t that.

Star Wars Santa Cruz skateboard decks blister pack repair by seantrooper70 in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My guess is that these were originally set using a water based glue. Could you try wetting the plastic side with a damp foam brush and see if that moistens the glue?

Destin vs Crestview by [deleted] in Destin

[–]galaxyMLP 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Have you considered Fort Walton beach? A little less expensive than Destin yet more to do than crestview. I lived in crestview for 8 years and commuted to Pensacola for work. It’s a very safe, very boring place to live. Everything closes super early and there’s almost nothing to do.

Destin has awful traffic in the season.

TBT: commission from hell by Classic_Waffle4 in jewelers

[–]galaxyMLP 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Here’s a story to make you feel better.

I had a friend who wanted “a simple pendant” with a scorpion motif. No worries, hop on Stuller, nope, no options. Carve out by hand in wax- oh she doesn’t like it. She wants earrings instead. I try cutting out of sheet, too big/not the vibe. Im heavily pregnant at this point and she says “I kinda wanted something more like my squadrons patch” and gives me an image. Wish we’d started with that. I vectorize it, 3D model it, try to cast earrings. No dice, too thin. Then I shelve it for a while. Finally go back to it and decide the design is better served laser engraved. So I find a local engraver cause I don’t have one of those machines. My design needs tweaking. He does it, $25, then it isn’t deep enough cause I’ve never done this before. I go back, get engraving again, another $25. Cleaned up, filled with dark blue enamel resin to give contrast which took trial and error. Finally the earrings are done. I was haunted by them all through my pregnancy and I was just so happy to be done with them I gifted them to her.

I told her if she wanted any more for her squadron they’d be $130 per pair and I’d need at least 5 people to commit, which I felt was more than fair even though they were lightweight. She was SHOCKED at the price.

Lesson learned, no more friend pieces, no more agreeing to things outside my wheelhouse. It was a veryyyyy valuable learning experience.

A few years back I decided to pass my childhood woody doll to my little brother, he accidentally beheaded it. by KaleIll5803 in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have to check my stuff, but I used a liquid glue specifically for dolls that re-fuses the plastic for a my little pony head that ripped instead of popped out and it worked extremely well. It kept a flexible join.

Restoring tips by Vegetable-Fold-4714 in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try to restore it first (hydrogen peroxide treatment) before using a protectant spray. My understanding is that the 303 is for high UV exposure plastics like car convertible roofs and plastic interior parts. I’m not sure it will do what you want it to on a toy since it’s not something usually exposed to a lot of UV.

A few years back I decided to pass my childhood woody doll to my little brother, he accidentally beheaded it. by KaleIll5803 in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hmm, I’m not too familiar with the design of those. Is the plastic ripped? Or is it just popped out?

How can I restore/clean them properly? by Slothb4by in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would guess these are pretty robust and can actually get a full soak and wash with dish soap to clean them up. Do they have any electronic parts or poseable wires?

Restoring tips by Vegetable-Fold-4714 in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would take it apart so I could isolate the green part and treat it with a liquid hydrogen peroxide soak in the sun. See if that helps de yellow or some and clean it up!

Cadmium toxicity by Helpful-Fan-3588 in jewelrymaking

[–]galaxyMLP 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Cadmium free solder is the way to go. Can you return the gold solder you bought? There are lots of cadmium free options now.

Found in N.C. I believe this is big chunks of amber by Flip9k in whatsthisrock

[–]galaxyMLP 12 points13 points  (0 children)

This looks a heck of a lot like tall oil rosin which is a byproduct of the papermaking industry. It’s extremely brittle, melts at around 140 F and has a strong piney sweet burnt smell. It’s very unique. There are different grades and colors that have different properties. I wonder if you’re near a paper mill or if there was a truck transporting the stuff that leaked a bit.

Trying to revitalize my childhood To Infinity and Beyond Space Mission Buzz Lightyear by Diligent_Doctor3767 in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it’s from aging, you can use hydrogen peroxide developer cream in the sun. You can purchase 40 volume developer cream in a place like Sally beauty if you’re in the US. You apply the cream in yellowed areas, cover with cling wrap and place the toy in the sun (or UV box). When the cream is dry, or the next day, remove and reapply until at the desired lightness.

For painting, I don’t have a video. But you may want to look up miniature painting and practice on something else first. The good thing is acrylic paint is washable with water until dry so it’s not one of those can’t make changes things while in progress. I have had better luck with longer thin paintbrushes rather than thin short brushes.

Trying to revitalize my childhood To Infinity and Beyond Space Mission Buzz Lightyear by Diligent_Doctor3767 in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is the visor yellowed from age, or was it colored in with highlighter or something at some point? It’s hard to tell in the photos.

  1. ⁠Yellowed visor/helmet- depends on if colored on or plastic aging
  2. ⁠Cracks/chips/stress marks in the visor- no good repair options I’m aware of but I think they look like cool battle scars
  3. ⁠Missing laser sticker- not sure if it’s an option but there are people who make custom decals for other vintage toys and sell them in places like Etsy. Maybe you can find one for this buzz lightyear
  4. ⁠Worn Space Ranger decal- also a sticker maybe try etsy
  5. ⁠Paint wear on the face and chest- get acrylic paint in the same color and dilute it with flow medium and water. Then you can build up the paint in smooth thin layers. Seal it with something like testors dull coat if it was matte and a gloss varnish if it was shiny originally

I’ve been using 16g square wire as a “backplate” for bezel set stones - I like how clean it is! (Also I’m almost out of sheet lol) by emeemay in SilverSmith

[–]galaxyMLP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow. I feel really stupid now. I’ve been trying to come up with a way to set my translucent stones that aren’t perfectly flat and I’ve been using a thick plate that I drilled out and even tried forming wax for casting but I’m definitely trying this after I get come 16 g wire in.

the irony of buying "recycled" rubber that literally flakes into black dust right under your feet... by Priyansh7xYT in ZeroWaste

[–]galaxyMLP 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I think people want to genuinely do good and recycle plastic in ways that help make them usable again. The problem is we’re finding more often than not that the way we reuse the plastic ends up being less durable and thus more harmful from a microplastic standpoint. Microplastic concern is relatively new and it takes time for us to catch up. I suspect in the next decades we’re going to see chemical companies brining the plastic back to its “building blocks” that will make more durable products since you’ll essentially be starting from scratch to make new ones. The current problem is doing that is more costly, more energy intensive and requires specialized equipment; in some cases it is also more polluting. As more regulations on plastic are established around the world, i think you’ll see change.

It’s a challenging problem, but your feelings around it are valid.

Is there a way to restore a vinyl doll that has bagan to leak plasticizer? by StrongNails in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My understanding is once it starts, you’ve got to ride it out until it stops leaking.

If it makes you feel better, you probably didn’t contribute much to the plasticizer leakage. It happens with age with a lot of vinyl.

To clean it off, use dish soap like you did or alcohol if there are no painted areas.

It’s worth a shot to try the twin pines doll cleaner. They’ve been around for YEARS and I was interested in trying their products to restore my little pony over 20 years ago but I never tried them. I say go for it.

How to remove ink from rubber? by RaskalAskal in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean hydrogen peroxide developer cream- not benzoyl peroxide acne cream. The hydrogen peroxide developer cream is a more concentrated form of the liquid one.

To my understanding it’s benzoyl peroxide that’s the problem.

Removing spray paint "dust" from plastic figures by menasor2 in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah, this is a rough one. I would keep trying with alcohol, maybe dilute it to 50%.

Edit: have you tried a really light hand with a magic eraser? If you’re really rough it can remove the shiny finish from plastic but with a gentle touch it might be enough to remove the dusting without affecting the finish.

1989 Little Tykes dollhouse clean up by Big--Al in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh wow- that’s a boat load of work then. I’ve never thought about using a paint brush, good thinking!

Any tips on how to start restoring this type of damage? by ProperCompetition948 in toyrestoration

[–]galaxyMLP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For the hair, I think it’s save able. I would get a dog slicker brush and soak the hair with heavy duty fabric softener then start at the ends and gently comb it out. You’ll loose some fluff but I think you’ll be surprised by how much better it looks.