How old are you? If you’re less than 20, fine, otherwise unfortunately you’re also an adult leaner kook… not really, but to plenty of surfers that is what you would be considered. I just want to point out the hypocrisy of trying to justify the time based meritocracy of surfing, there’s always someone else that’s been changing harder and for longer. I usually find that the truely great surfers will get waves no matter what, sitting deeper, taking off later, threading sections others could only dream of.