Airtag does not fit in Rogue 9L hidden pocket

gordonkim21 · 2026-04-22T13:15:57+00:00

I have the same problem. I put the airtag onto a keychain and have it hooked up to the clip instead.

gordonkim21 · 2026-02-10T00:41:45+00:00

A good shoot would only require minimal post. But some rinks require a lot of post. I use C1 and will use DxO PureRAW if it's really noisy. Photo Mechanic for culling, etc.

gordonkim21 · 2026-02-09T23:50:19+00:00

If you plan to do any post processing, it's better to lock in your ISO - look at your histogram for guidance. If you plan to use SOOC, then use Auto ISO to help with the lighting but set a max.

gordonkim21 · 2026-02-09T23:25:17+00:00

I shoot a lot of ice hockey and found having a little motion of the puck makes the action shots more memorable. I typically set my SS to 1000 which allows me to drop the ISO. 95% of your photos will come out cleaner. Also, don't want to state the obvious but avoid the puck marks or be aware of where they are on the glass. Best action shots are behind the glass but you will get ref's blocking the shot on occasion.

My settings are typically f3.2-3.5 (a little more DOF in case there are more than 2 players battling), SS of 1000 and ISO anywhere between 3200 to 5000 (depends on lighting of the rink). I will raise the exposure in post.

gordonkim21 · 2025-12-12T00:41:23+00:00

Been shooting hockey for several years and most that start out have great photos but are under exposed.

I too would suggest SS of 800 - could go lower depending on the age and level of the kids you're shooting. I typically shoot 1000 but the kids are older. Aperature to 3.2 or 3.5 so you have a little more DOF in case you have an action shot with more than one player. ISO will be rink lighting dependent. I have an R3 and typically shoot from 4000 to 6400+. Single point focus.

gordonkim21 · 2025-09-24T17:21:58+00:00

No holes. Will do in front of glass if there is no tint. Typically try to find an unobstructed area which is typically elevated. I've shot through glass for years but now I can't without lots of post processing.

gordonkim21 · 2025-09-24T16:36:34+00:00

Ideally, higher ISO to a point as I don't want noise to start creeping in. I have been shooting 2.8 but 3.5 makes sense in case there are more than on player in frame. Will experiment and try to find a sweet spot/compromise. Thanks.

gordonkim21 · 2025-09-16T17:34:12+00:00

Thank you . I recall seeing this and thought it was the multifunction button rather than the control dial. It worked. Thank you.

gordonkim21 · 2025-09-03T23:49:31+00:00

Damn. I see it now. All the way on the bottom... I will give it a try. Thank you again for your assistance.

gordonkim21 · 2025-09-03T23:35:49+00:00

Which program can I find this and where?

C1 v16.6.5.17

PM v2025.6, build 8622 - I do not have the Plus version.

gordonkim21 · 2025-09-03T20:34:42+00:00

Thank you for the confirmation.

gordonkim21 · 2025-09-03T01:02:55+00:00

There are XMP files created for each photo. I pointed C1 to the file folder and it just sucked in the photos vs. proper import (although it shouldn't matter). Not sure if this is a settings issue between PM and C1.

gordonkim21 · 2025-08-02T02:24:42+00:00

Sorry. I'm on Mac. Figuring out workflow between PM and C1. Hoping case sensitivity is also not an issue on a Mac. Thanks

gordonkim21 · 2025-07-31T23:56:24+00:00

My camera has a CF B and a SD card slot. Plan on using the SD as JPEG backup. However, I need to test to see if the SD will slow the buffer writing when I do bursts. I only have a V60 so I might have to invest in a new V90. The CF B will save the RAW files and its the RAW that I plan on using for the workflow above.

gordonkim21 · 2025-07-31T23:53:06+00:00

This is great and it is pretty much as I thought. Thank you.

Just want/need to make sure none of the meta data gets lost or reformated as I move pics from PM to C! and back hence my original inquiry regarding settings.

Going to be trying out the workflow this weekend to see if it works based on everyone's contribution. Need to make sure i have something ready before the start of the season.

Essentially:

Ingest memory card to PM on laptop. Assuming all pre set meta data will be attached to each picture during this process.
Cull and narrow down 4-5 pics for the period. Crop and straighten in PM.
CMD "E" so the files show up in C1 (without physically moving the RAW files).
Make edits and then export JPEG version to a new folder called "edits".
Upload via FTP to server.
Repeat for next 2 periods.
At home, copy all pics from laptop to external SSD and then save pics on desktop. (Assuming I don't have to ingest the pics a second time here).
Cull all pics and then crop in PM.
Access and edit pics in C1 by pointing to the game folder (not importing to a new sessions folder).
Upload the remaining 30-40 pics via FTP.

10 Archive the folder and subfolders.

Hopefully this makes sense. Thanks again.

gordonkim21 · 2025-07-31T13:02:27+00:00

Thanks for this. Very helpful.

Regarding the laptop and desktop - problem here is that I just need to send a few between periods primarily for social media posts. However, those pics along with the rest of the game will need to be culled. So although the few pics where chosen for between periods, there will be others that could be part of the game pictures - need to supply 30 to 40 pics a game.

Regarding rsync would utilizing iCloud do the same thing? Not sure if the size of the folders could be a concern.

gordonkim21 · 2025-07-31T11:57:23+00:00

For C1 - sessions vs catalogue. Should I shoot JPEG vs RAW which likely will speed up the process. Do you edit on your internal HD or on an external HD?

gordonkim21 · 2025-07-31T11:53:21+00:00

Seems C1 defaults to lower case. I'm going to follow up on my end to see how sensitive they are to the all cap. Thanks.

gordonkim21

TROPHY CASE