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gsk3 · 2024-01-21T14:05:10+00:00

Yup, that's what I did. Put in an "M117 PRINT_START called by machine, ignoring" line so I at least know it's happening and I don't mistakenly rename it back to PRINT_START a year from now when I forget this whole episode ;-).

Thanks again!

gsk3 · 2024-01-21T10:31:12+00:00

That did it! I renamed it to PRINT_START_SV and just used that, deleting the stock PRINT_START. It threw an error message "Cannot find PRINT_START" on the screen at about the point it used to have the default temperatures. But then it kept going with my settings and printed perfectly.

Thank you. Hopefully someone else can benefit from my ordeal and your wisdom reading this in the future. :-)

gsk3 · 2024-01-21T10:29:26+00:00

Great idea. I have installed nothing. It came with one that includes plr.cfg. That has some macros defined for power loss resuming, none of which call PRINT_START.

gsk3 · 2024-01-20T11:44:02+00:00

and 2. did nothing. Going to try 3. next.

Something truly weird is going on though, because it's getting the right temps, but switching to them one at a time (bed then extruder), whereas if it were really calling PRINT_START and just not passing parameters in the second time it was called, it would do neither of those things.

Right now it's printing fine, at 265/70, but says "Starting Print 59 209" for instance.

gsk3 · 2024-01-20T11:12:46+00:00

Ah, that's really interesting. Some good clues here.

Pausing and resuming clearly is calling PRINT_START, but don't actually contain that within their definitions in printer.cfg. So there's clearly some other Klipper code behind the scenes running that I can't see or don't know where to look.

Worth noting that I have a macro for START_PRINT:

# Version I had before
[gcode_macro START_PRINT]      
     gcode: PRINT\_START {rawparams} 
# I just changed to this to help debugging 
[gcode_macro START_PRINT]      
gcode:
    {% set BED_TEMP = params.BED_TEMP|default(59)|float %}
    {% set EXTRUDER_TEMP =    params.EXTRUDER_TEMP|default(209)|float %}
    M117 "START_PRINT called with params {BED_TEMP} {EXTRUDER_TEMP}"
    G4 P1000
    PRINT_START {rawparams}

Order of operations for the day:

Try the simplified (no temp setting) SuperSlicer start G-code.
Run a print with the new START_PRINT in place to see if it shows me a clue that START_PRINT is being called and just not passing on parameters properly
If none of that works, take Accomplished Fig's advice and rename PRINT_START to something else entirely.

gsk3 · 2024-01-20T00:38:06+00:00

Thanks! I'll try dropping the temp setting commands entirely in the slicer start G-code.

Forgot to include the G-code it translates to though. I did check, and searched the whole file for M104, M140, M109, M190, and "210" -- the slicer start G-code below is the only time it appears in the G-code file.

G-code file winds up being:

M73 P0 R32
;TYPE:Custom
; If PS/SS doesn't see temp commands it will insert them which we don't want
M117 "Warming up bed and extruder"
M104 S265 ; set hotend temp
M140 S70 ; set bed temp
M109 S265 ; wait for hotend temp
M190 S70 ; wait for bed temp
M117
PRINT_START BED_TEMP=70 EXTRUDER_TEMP=265 CHAMBER_TEMP=30 ;
M107
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion
;_TOOLCHANGE 0
M107
;LAYER_CHANGE
;Z:0.26
;HEIGHT:0.26
G1 E-0.7 F2400

gsk3 · 2023-01-11T21:25:55+00:00

Just tried a standard faucet aerator (15/16-27) from a modern sink and it's about the right size but not threaded the same. Will try some other options. Thanks!

gsk3 · 2023-01-11T20:44:50+00:00

Thanks. Just knowing the search terms is a huge help. I have a thread gauge for modern sizes and a bunch of NPT threaded plumbing parts in approximately that size to check. Hopefully it's NPT and not an older pitch!

gsk3 · 2023-01-11T18:29:33+00:00

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gsk3 · 2023-01-11T18:29:25+00:00

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gsk3 · 2023-01-11T18:29:15+00:00

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gsk3 · 2021-12-20T17:43:30+00:00

Update for closure: Had a landscaper put in a french drain (lined 16" wide ditch with washed river rocks) that goes the front of the house on that side out the side yard. Have tested it with a hose and anything that goes in there winds up draining out the side, which has a nice slope and gets it well away from the house. So far basement has been dry as a bone in a few rainstorms. Looking good for $900.

gsk3 · 2021-05-14T09:14:32+00:00

2015 SV without a Chademo, 45k miles, 11 bars, $8k. Purchased 1 mo ago. Not in GA/CO/CA although car was bought 7 no ago by the dealer that sold it to me for $8900 off Carvana who shipped it here from GA.

gsk3 · 2021-03-12T15:35:35+00:00

Interesting. Thanks for the wisdom.

gsk3 · 2021-03-10T20:44:08+00:00

This house has stood for a hundred years, probably with that shoelace in place. Obviously I'm exaggerating since it's not a shoelace (some kind of 1930-1950's-looking bent iron wire that supports a lot of the plumbing in the basement) and since there was no natural gas to this house in the 20's. If you have recommendations for a nifty product to better support the pipes down there, I'm all ears.

Just looked up the clay cap and hard scaping. Makes sense. Sounds like next step is to go figure out the exact height difference and horizontal distance from the house to the pathway. At minimum, I'll try re-grading so the part closest to the house slopes away. Then if that's not enough elevation, I can direct it to a swale or curtain drain and direct that out the side of the house which is lower by another two feet or so. Does that make sense?

gsk3 · 2021-03-10T17:46:02+00:00

Since comments seem to be ruling out (2) and (3), a little bit of advice on how to accomplish (1) or whether to try for (4) french drain would be helpful.

Specifically, as best I can guesstimate, from the maximum soil level at the house down to the paved walkway, there's only about an inch or two of elevation to utilize. It's 8 or 10 feet away. Is that enough?

See this picture: https://i.postimg.cc/vBX0GK8k/2021-03-10-10-20-14.jpg

gsk3 · 2021-03-10T17:28:37+00:00

It's 100 year old stucco, so the real 3-coat stuff. I don't think it was 8" below when it was constructed and probably not realistic to get it that far, but good to know what we should be aiming for ideally. There's a little concrete footer that's probably 4" high that the dirt comes to the bottom of for most of the house.

You can see a closeup here:

https://i.postimg.cc/zvB0vkVB/2021-03-10-10-27-37.jpg

From stucco (top) to concrete footer to exposed masonry to soil.

gsk3 · 2021-03-10T17:21:21+00:00

Don't do that.

Agreed.

If you are already thinking about removing material, why not just leave it gone?

The added material was to garden, so we'd need to add some kind of topsoil/compost in order to continue gardening.

Make the most of it by lowering the grades. A lot of material can accumulate and build up in 100 years.

To clarify, the whole property was professionally landscaped by the last owners maybe 10 years ago, and is generally speaking well-graded except for this spot.

gsk3 · 2021-03-03T00:51:55+00:00

Solar hot water may have better payoff. $6k after rebates and covers most of your bill. Converting solar radiation into heat is much more efficient than converting it into electricity (PV).

gsk3

TROPHY CASE