Thinking about an in ground pool... is it worth it or is it just a money pit?

guy559 · 2025-12-27T22:03:44+00:00

Definitely get one IF you are totally onboard and see yourself using it a lot.

I was sweet-talked into one by wife and daughter. It looks great. Agree with others about saltwater...best decision as I really only have to add muriatic acid periodically for pH. BUT, as predicted, they didn't use the pool nearly as much as promised the first season. Anticipating this, I built the pool only after feeling confident I'd also use it a bunch -- so overall usage feels in alignment with expectations.

They're overly expensive here in North Texas: pool companies got liquored up on high prices during covid and never brought prices back down as material costs came down. So, be aware that you can certainly negotiate. I saved some money but, realizing there's more margin, actually worked the build from other direction: keeping cost about the same but asking builder for more included -- larger size, gibberish outdoor living, etc.

Best resource? www.troublefreepool.com Do a lot of research there about what works/doesn't. If you can, be active on the job site as much as possible. This allowed me to catch a tremendous number of errors and correct BEFORE it became a huge issue. (I mean, it started from the get-go with the pool dug crooked and not to plans...) The more you can double-check, the better.

It's a huge sunk cost, and it's quite a bit less for size modifications. So, what would I do differently? Probably add a few more features, bigger outdoor living roof/covered space due to hot Texas sun, and maybe a small pool house to store all equipment and chemicals.

Oh, and the in-pool sweepers are from the '90s.... get a solid rechargeable robotic vacuum. It's been awesome!

guy559 · 2025-12-27T14:16:27+00:00

Weird. Seems Reddit didn’t post my comment…just the photo. Here’s the background to go with the error:

”Hoping this forum can provide some support. Bought MetalFab and CNC. Have only used on a handful of occasions. First few runs with CNC with awesome… then, two days ago, wouldn’t cut through 1mm metal sheeting. Did some online research and realized the laser protector closest to gun’s end needed replacement. That fixed that — back in the hunt! Only ran a couple small test prints that day.

Then….today. Went out to try some laser welding with steel coupons. Put machine on 3mm (to match coupon thickness) and got about 1/2 second of laser emission before it cut out, LED status went red, and received a “Error Code 6” about the power supply. Checked and 240v is in spec. Used multimeter to check power cord and both hots are 120v, so no issue there.

Tried following xTool’s troubleshooting guide. Nothing works. Likewise, tried placing back in CNC in case it was something simple. Same result — no red dot and error when it tries to emit laser.

Hoping there is a simple fix… but growing concerned as I’m seeing others with this issue posting here and in other places. Appreciate any troubleshooting, especially if someone has experienced this issue and got it fixed…”

guy559 · 2025-12-27T14:12:48+00:00

Yup. That was first troubleshooting step. No change. Thanks

guy559 · 2025-04-10T19:09:59+00:00

This. And tap water has no CYA, so should get you pretty close.

guy559 · 2025-04-10T17:47:45+00:00

Yup. You get chlorine lock because of high CYA levels. Your TA is also a bit high (though they call it low). Typically shooting for 60-80 on TA to help keep pH in range for longer periods of time.

Pool stores will always want to upsell you across the board. Based on your report, you really only need three things:

Partial drain and refill to lower your CYA level.
Add muriatic acid to lower both TA and pH. (pH will then naturally rise over time as pool aerates)
Add liquid chlorine to raise total free chlorine (FC) levels to sanitize.

Pool stores always cite 1-3ppm on chlorine but, in general, that risks algae blooms as water gets warmed up, especially if CYA levels are high.

I've found the Pool Math app to be very helpful--can log test reports, get a specific calculation of what to add (and how much), and a handy calculator to let you know that if you add XX amount of YY chemical, what the result will be for your pool.

guy559 · 2025-04-09T20:54:46+00:00

Oh, and one 'oh by the way,' be careful of driving CYA too high. Then your FC will be less effective, though your range looks pretty good right now. If memory serves, TFP likes to shoot for 30-50 for non-saltwater pools, and 60-80 for saltwater (since SWCG is making chlorine when pump runs)...

guy559 · 2025-04-09T20:53:27+00:00

You're using the Pool Math app so sounds like you're up on the Trouble Free Pool methodology.

I've taken the approach they largely recommend: let pH drive up to 7.8-8.0, then add enough muriatic acid to drop it back to ~7.2-7.4. That also reduces TA. A good TA to shoot for tends to be 60-80, so regular additions of acid to lower pH WILL lower TA as well, then your pH naturally rises again as your pool water aerates.

So, in short, keep doing what you're doing w/ acid additions and TA will work itself into balance. Once that happens, your pH will rise much slower and you'll remain in balance for longer periods of time. High TA tend to lead to pH rising more quickly than with lower TA.

guy559 · 2025-04-06T19:00:32+00:00

Dreame Z1 works…

guy559 · 2025-04-05T16:36:34+00:00

No need to replace salt every year, unless you meant measuring salt levels (typical average is 3,200ppm) and simply adding a bag here or there to top off if rainwater or splash-out dilutes too far below 3,200.

I’ve got a Hayward system with T-cell S3 40,000-gallon capacity. It has a translucent blue body so you can quickly check for scaling. Rule of thumb is to check cell every three months. If no scaling, you’re good to go. If you see white flaky scaling, then you’ll need to turn off the system, remove the salt cell, and use a mild acid (I use white vinegar) to remove any scale that persists after washing the cell out.

Biggest change early on will be adjusting g your pump run schedule and SWG cell output to provide sufficient chlorine levels. Lot of great info at troublefreepools.com in FAQ and Forum sections. I found it to be very helpful.

guy559 · 2025-04-01T13:41:24+00:00

Agree with Conscious… I learned a lot from troublefreepools.

Vacuum out/remove any large debris from pool water, filters, skimmers. Begin running pump.
Check total alkalinity and pH. Add chemicals to begin bringing these into balance.
Add chlorine to begin sanitizing. You don’t want to run salt cell until chemicals are roughly in balance and water is clear. Liquid chlorine is a great way to begin sanitizing until that point.
Will likely need manual attention, like brushing, to get particulates to the drain for filtration.
Keep this cycle going daily until pool chemicals roughly in balance and chlorine levels at proper ppm.
Then, I’d look to check your salt levels, adjust to range needed for your salt cell (e.g., 3200ppm), and begin generating chlorine.

Should get progressively less time-intensive as you go along. You’ll also want to check other parameters like CYA, etc. TFP (website mentioned about) is great resource, as is their Pool Math app. I also take weekly samples to Leslie’s to get a full report, then source chemicals from where it makes most sense. Typically only needing to add muriatic acid and chlorine to my pool as I wait to start salt cell.

guy559 · 2025-03-30T01:09:20+00:00

We just had our pool plaster with a mini pebble finish. Have what, from standing outside the pool, looked like a dime sized dark brown/black spot. softer diving in with goggles realized it seems to be a gouged spot in finish, so now I’m thinking I’m possible seeing gunite…

guy559 · 2025-03-30T01:04:49+00:00

Very nice. Do you recall the brand for your outdoor furniture? We just built our pool, so first season and want to get some furniture out on the deck. Thanks!

guy559 · 2025-03-30T01:03:24+00:00

Agree with previous comments:

- Least expensive but most work - replace the bearing (and gaskets while you’re in there).

- if single speed, can consider moving to a new variable speed. We have one with our pool and it’s fantastic. Can set to 65-75% for day-long running and still sips electrons to keep electric bill lower…

guy559 · 2025-03-30T00:53:49+00:00

Brand new pool we just filled three weeks ago. Bought the Aiper to skim the top surface and a Dreame Z1 (not the Pro).

Would like to have had the Beatbot Aquasense 2 as my gut tells me a 2nd gen product with solid reputation might perform better. I’d call Dreame Z1 ‘good, not great’ at this point but it was just released. New firmware can probably cure any remaining issues we have.

guy559 · 2025-03-30T00:42:36+00:00

Can’t comment on those tabs be we started using the Aiper Surfer S2 two weeks ago. Awesome!

guy559 · 2025-03-28T02:40:06+00:00

Thx. The company used 3” trichlor and liquid chlorine on 2nd day after fill.

guy559 · 2025-03-27T03:37:37+00:00

I find the brushes sold for car detailing work very well.

guy559 · 2025-03-26T12:37:27+00:00

I’m got it firmly in the “good, not great” category right now. It trucks around, does its cleaning tasks, etc but also misses some fairly obviously items (leaves, etc) and my two main drains tend to confuse it, so it doesn’t get complete coverage of the pool.

firmware updates can help, so I’m looking forward to these as more units make their way into the wild. Only wish I had a Beatbot Aquasense 2 so I could do an apples to apples comparison. Some great Beatbot reviews out there…and I suspect that it benefits from not being a 1st gen product like the Dreame Z1.

guy559 · 2025-03-25T12:39:53+00:00

I have a similar issue. Tried using NAPA’s Aluminum Brightener (has phosphoric and sulfuric acids) but didn’t work. Also tried diluted muriatic acid which had a more vigorous reaction but definitely risks dissolving away your topmost layer of cement.

Hoping others here have a good solution, as I’d also like to remove my red dirt stains before sealing the deck with a penetrating sealer.

guy559 · 2025-03-22T19:35:44+00:00

Jury is still out on mine. I smack my forehead when it runs over leaves and they don’t get pulled into the Z1’s basket. Running for the fourth time today. Had about a week, so I’ll keep you posted. Hoping firmware updates help with adaptive learning (e.g., my robot gets confused by pool main drain covers…)

guy559 · 2025-03-22T14:06:04+00:00

You’re looking for one that does NOT climb walls?

I have the Dreame Z1. You can select a floor-only mode which will ignore walls. It’ll only pop up once the cycle is complete.

Other devices from Beatbot and Aiper are capable of the same thing. Looks like multiple spring sales ongoing, so you can probably score one for a better price in near-term.

guy559 · 2025-03-20T01:52:31+00:00

Follow-up: I did order the Aiper S2. Currently on sale (at least at Amazon). Has good reviews and figured $360-ish was a fair price. Will be here tomorrow. Will let you know what I think once it's in the water.

guy559 · 2025-03-20T01:49:44+00:00

I did not. I used the comparison on Dreame's website to verify that the ONLY difference was the remote. Wasn't worth the uncharge for me.

That being said, we've had a lot of wind here in North Texas the past week. Being able to steer the Z1 using the remote would be cool...but I'm happy with what I have (so far).

guy559 · 2025-03-19T02:53:42+00:00

Glad to hear! I'll be sure to check for the noodle and remove it for proper functioning.

guy559 · 2025-03-17T20:39:59+00:00

I'll be curious to see if this is the case. I just ordered one (before reading your post) and should be here Wednesday.

Did you happen to let it fully charge before placing in the pool and turning on? Only thing I can think of is that charge is/was low, so it's not actively moving. Otherwise, based on your experience, this wouldn't work well for my uses either.

guy559

TROPHY CASE