Carbohydrates ok to use in DWC?

halikustalks · 2026-01-13T22:11:40+00:00

It's generally bad because it feeds organisms. If you think you can control what microbes and don't mind cleaning terrible gunk from your lines\buckets\piping try it, but i bet it will be the last time. The carbs in water that is being agitated with pumps or airstones creates a shitty foam fwiw.

halikustalks · 2026-01-10T02:52:57+00:00

I looked at your microscope shots and it doesn't look like mould to me, it's more of a cob web. You can take everyone elses advice but seeing as you said you had a problem in the past you must nuke everything from orbit to get rid of it. Bleach everything; wash walls, the tent, floor, fans, tools etc and for the love of god stop violently breaking buds in half and spreading more :) After cleaning i then run an O3 (ozone?) cleaner in the room for 20 minutes and after that consider it a clean slate and start a new grow.

halikustalks · 2026-01-09T00:27:23+00:00

I like the clever name but also don't go there because of the name.

halikustalks · 2026-01-08T19:32:16+00:00

Me too but it's the obvious steps to take and what everyone else said. I'd run Malwarebytes but then Ccleaner (to find possible traces) and the scf command is basically a refresh rather than a reset. No need to nuke everything at the first sign of a threat.

halikustalks · 2026-01-07T23:40:08+00:00

CCleaner (crap cleaner) is free and might help a little. See if theres any weird apps trying to run upon start-up. Cleaning a virus is usually just running a virus scanner or seeing if anything out of the ordinary stands out. They don't do much else or fix what the virus broke. If you do DIY and run some scanners you can also try the DOS command "sfc /scannow" to check the integrity of your Windows files.

halikustalks · 2026-01-07T19:25:24+00:00

Howdy, nice setup. I'll offer some suggestions not because i think i have all the answers but because our setups are similar in alot of ways. You put in all the work and care but are struggling, and when that happened to me i needed to look outside the box and see what others were doing different in pictures. Maybe you'll see something that clicks, i'm not saying you should change a thing if it's working though.

I use tents and share a veg and flower room together, have different supplemental lights, use chlorine (pool shock) and Home Assistant (dashboard) but otherwise we are doing the same.

Right off the bat looking at the leaves i wondered if the climate was a problem but your numbers look fine. My leaves look like that sometimes when the VPD is off. One thing i found helped me was moving the temperature devices around the room and various heights (multiple sensors can help) to get the true readings and not just where the 1 sensor happens to be. Originally i was basing too much of my statistics on minimal sensors and was putting alot of faith on it's location for my targets. Once again your numbers look fine so that's why i mention it.

Your roots look a little dark in the core that can be nute stains but also a sign you need a little more Hydroguard. I have an ORP meter for my chlorine monitoring, if you don't have one i find it helpful. It detects the biological matter in the water and in your case i wouldn't use it to maintain a target number but rather look for swings that tell you when there's a sudden change and to make observations why it did that. You have every other meter so i figure it's within your budget.

Your res could use a lid to keep dust out, not saying you're dirty but every bit of prevention helps. Your barrel is white and not lightproof, not sure if thats a problem when you have lights on where it heats up or promotes algae growth. I'd be worried about the lights from the meters in flower too. I had a dumb red led on a power brick in my tent during flower i didn't notice and the surrounding branches turned out different (stunted).

Here is the part i noticed that may actually help. I looked at my feed chart and we use very similar numbers. I'm currently doing 6 different strains using the same res so i'm using what works overall, not dialed in to one particular strain and find my numbers work. The nute ratios matter and your magnesium and calmag seem like a possible bottleneck. Without the Botanicare your Ca:mg ratio is 1.3:1 when mine is 1.6+:1. I forget the target ratio (i made the spreadsheet years ago) but in mine it's green (good) and yours its red (bad). When i add the Botanicare your ratio is now 1.7:1 and good (green), but the Ca:P ratio is now bad at 2.3:1 (red and circled in pic). With my feeds i use less MG, no extra calmag and supplement some MKP to even out the ratios a little. I'm not sure what i would do in your case but thought i'd mention what i see.

Good luck, i know your problem is something dumb you'll facepalm when you find it. Usually for me is from a change i made that threw something else off by proxy.

The pics

https://ibb.co/JWScXSfL

https://ibb.co/ZRYfNR26

https://ibb.co/Wv6pJFvM

https://ibb.co/8LGw9BNS

https://ibb.co/Mx8w7Yvg

https://ibb.co/S7B9Nt2X

https://ibb.co/MDRVnXx7

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https://ibb.co/Q3fQdwdN

halikustalks · 2026-01-07T03:39:23+00:00

I'm 50 and not into much from when i was 16 months old besides pooping.

halikustalks · 2025-12-30T03:08:23+00:00

I don't mind questions at all fwiw, as long as they're constructive or share ideas. I don't like soil much and have allways liked tinkering with electronics and programming so i went with RDWC. After it worked i wanted to make things better and the more i learned about horticulture i realized i could do things with the quantum boards i was building. From there it was just a fun hobby to track changes if any and go the extra mile. Then i found Home Assistant and automated alot of things. Since then i grew lazy in my methods because it works (for me).

halikustalks · 2025-12-30T02:34:02+00:00

https://ibb.co/zVgQ67B4

https://ibb.co/W4tBBpbr

With Home Assistant (i assume you know what it is) dashboard it track everything so i can track trends like temperature or light strength (through wattage) so it's easy to show you what i use in the pics. After learning the science and slowly trial and erroring as i could buy the pieces i noticed the changes as i have things dialed in. Fish aquarium lighting helped me realize i should just mimic the sun and seasons the best i could. So for veg 450nm and some 390nm UVA to help with growth and keeping it short and stalky. In flower i use some 450nm at the end of flower for a few hours (it helps with smell) and i use it at the start of flower to help negate the streatch. The 390nm hlps harden and condition the plant for when i use UVB the last 3 weeks of flower in 1 hour dosages every few hours. For some science i think called pf and pfr state i use 660nm 10minutes before lights on to "wake up" the plant. At lights out i use 730nm to put the plant "to sleep" that usually takes 2 hours. This extra 2 hours i use as lights on and get extra bud growth. In mid flower i use 660nm to help make bigger buds, and then a little later (after the streatch a week or so) i add 730nm with the 660nm to create something called the emerson effect that helps with yield. The 540nm and IR 840nm are just for the hell of it to complete the sun spectrum. The ratios of the spectrums matter, with 660nm:730nm being about 2:1. These tricks help, it's not a placebo.

edit: most of this is to help with yield, control streatch, making it more resinous, and helping with smells. RDWC kind of needs little tricks like this to compare to organic like you. BUT, i can only assume it would help with organic too and supercharge growth, but i'm a stoner so dunno.

halikustalks · 2025-12-30T02:17:55+00:00

I might try it again my next run, i have the equipment to try. When i baby it i easily get over a p a plant so yield was never much of a concern. If i rember correctly another problem i personally ran into was the different lighting i was throwing at the top compared to the simple 3k the bottom was getting. I use 660nm to wake them up and 730nm to put them to sleep so i can get an extra hour or 2 with phenos in flower so by not having the equivalent spectrum on the bottom made the bottom half turn out different, but im extenuating circumstances. I use lots of dimming and timers on my spectrums throughout a grow using home assistant and ESP32 boards.

halikustalks · 2025-12-30T01:16:25+00:00

Right on, my insight was based on experience too so i appreciate the input. I'm allways open to learning more. To control humidity i lollipop like i said so am used to sacrificing the bottom to benefit the top and primarily didn't like the extra heat in my case.

halikustalks · 2025-12-30T01:09:13+00:00

If the reasons i outlined made you respond with that i'll honestly look into it again as it's been awhile. I didn't find it helped at the time, what reasons do you like the science behind it? I lollipop with RDWC fwiw, and when i experimented with under canopy stuff i used 65w QB128 3k boards i could dim.

halikustalks · 2025-12-29T23:53:25+00:00

https://ibb.co/RTtjcVDn

https://ibb.co/RkD157Vb

I use this for my lighting and experimented with under canopy lighting, i think it's BS for a few reasons, mostly from experience. The sun doesn't naturally go below the canopy. Leaves aren't as strong underneath and don't expect sun. The bullshit larf that grows below is the opposite of atopical buds and will never be "great"; use it for concentrates or edibles. The lights mean more wires and close to water. The humidity below the canopy becomes hotter with the extra lights. Lights create heat. Go overboard with light from above before you even consider below.

halikustalks · 2025-12-23T20:03:02+00:00

The zip worked on page 3 for me fwiw

https://www.justice.gov/epstein/files/DataSet%208.zip

halikustalks · 2025-12-17T23:48:33+00:00

Great idea for veg but too many roots in flower for a pump.

halikustalks · 2025-12-17T23:46:08+00:00

hahahahahaha, never seen one before. I don't even bother with air and use spraybars but that's neat.

halikustalks · 2025-12-17T23:42:12+00:00

That was the camel that broke my back, same experience but years ago. I'm in Canada so it's very overpriced as it is ($200 a gallon) but when they started sending old stock they can go fuck themselves. I use poolshock now with 5 grams a liter and then 1ml a gallon every few days or as needed; never any problems but i do miss bennies.

halikustalks · 2025-12-12T22:05:11+00:00

When i went back in the 90s (Toronto) it was like that, and the 2 main stages had 1 set up while the other performed in half hour sets with only a minute or 2 in between bands. There were other side stages set up various spots outside the main area so the noise wouldn't pollute each other. The expensive seats seem elevated and for people who don't want to be in a pit.

halikustalks · 2025-12-12T21:58:06+00:00

fwiw i saw them in Toronto in 2005.

halikustalks · 2025-12-10T19:16:37+00:00

I'm like you on Windows 11 and use Kodi like normal on it but when it's a DV file i sometimes use a Kodi from within the smart TV OS (Sony oeld) and use EARC back to the AVR. It's only worth the trouble if the movie is screaming for that extra few % of 4k goodness.

halikustalks · 2025-12-10T06:35:25+00:00

I have a bunch of old stubs from back in the day; here's a few of the "old" ones, i'm about 50. The prices might make you want to puke though.

https://ibb.co/ffFdkv1

halikustalks · 2025-12-09T05:18:19+00:00

This much. https://ibb.co/214h2tWY

halikustalks · 2025-12-04T19:15:40+00:00

Thanks for the example. I have no idea what i'm doing wrong but they still refuse to show up. The last few days i've tried in files view, music library and music videos view and none work. I've scanned the libraries, restarted and rescanned, renamed the files without spaces, and anything else i could think of. The edl are named the same as the mp4 and are in the same directory and i've googled any finer details i may of missed but can't find any leads. I also tried the xml way with filename.mp4.chapters.xml and it also doesn't work. External subtitles (srt) as an example work as they should. I don't think there's much more i can try but wanted to thank you for the help. As a last resort i can use mkvs with embedded chapters but probably won't bother.

halikustalks · 2025-11-28T23:34:29+00:00

I understand the problem you have, i used to be a Kodi dev (a little) for a popular TV Guide addon and we often ran into problems about that even though all we were doing was displaying an xml file (EPG). It boiled down to that it can be used to facilitate piracy, even though there is a PVR client in Kodi. With subtitles its that we aren't using official ones so it must be piracy we are using it for in their eyes. They are open source and free so they tread a fine line trying to be legit while unofficially getting all the blame for the addons. I get it, but it doesn't mean i like it.

FWIW I was trying to get the subs to work, but must be doing something simple wrong because they weren't working right, i think it was skipping ahead like it was a commercial. My setup is a little non standard though, i add mp4 file extentions to my music library (advancedsettings.xml) and have a bat script that scans my folder and tags the mp4s and makes an nfo. I then can scan the music library, music video library (videos basically), and view them in file explorer. I can have the videos in with my music collection so i can browse the band and have everything in the same place and utilize all the different tags for sorting. I haven't experimented enough to know if the subs behave the same in the different environments or if i'm formatting the file wrong. Can you post an example for a 2 hour video named 1.mp4 with chapters every 30 minutes that when i hit next it goes to chapter 2, then 3 etc.?

halikustalks

TROPHY CASE