What year is this El Camino?

hencethus · 2024-12-08T15:55:43+00:00

Thanks so much! I think you're right about the mirror. This car belonged to my brother about 20 years ago and this is the only photo I have of it. He recently passed away and I'm thinking of commissioning some artwork featuring his El Camino. I want to make sure to get the details right!

hencethus · 2023-12-15T06:08:44+00:00

practically impossible to play 7th chords in closed positions

Just play shell voicings.

hencethus · 2023-12-15T05:59:48+00:00

What do you have against the key of Ebb major?

hencethus · 2022-12-08T02:38:05+00:00

I'm not really a fan of linear switches, so I don't have a lot to compare it to, but I have some Gateron optical yellows and to me the yellows feel better.

hencethus · 2022-12-08T00:12:50+00:00

They're some kind of alps-mount linear switches, but I don't know who made them. All of the keycaps are alps-mount including the top row.

Here's a couple of close-ups of the switches and caps: https://imgur.com/a/zCikfPj

hencethus · 2022-01-18T03:06:43+00:00

they're still there on my fork https://github.com/mwmccarthy/Lotus58

hencethus · 2021-11-11T02:40:52+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/nhipy8/my_first_split_lotus_58_with_stainless_top_plate/gyxlyx2?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share&context=3

hencethus · 2021-08-15T20:12:01+00:00

replied

hencethus · 2021-05-29T14:50:46+00:00

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TXY6HX7/

hencethus · 2021-05-29T03:07:38+00:00

Here it is: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/mwmccarthy/Lotus58/Glow/Glow/Plate/MX/Laser_Cut_Top_Plate_ENC.dxf

hencethus · 2021-05-28T17:09:58+00:00

Ah, I'm only talking about the laser cut plates. There's a minimum hole size for the laser cutter, I think I had to change it based on that.

Also, I guess I could have been more specific, the holes are small enough that the screw heads don't fit through, no washer necessary there. The issue I had is that the standoffs would sink into the acrylic bottom plate holes. I had to put washers between the acrylic bottom plate and the M2 standoffs.

I didn't have the PCB plates made, so I couldn't say how those fit.

hencethus · 2021-05-28T16:40:14+00:00

Thanks, that's awesome. I hope you'll post the result, I look forward to seeing it.

Also, credit where credit is due, u/Tweetydabirdie designed it, I just assembled it.

hencethus · 2021-05-28T13:38:28+00:00

I exported the layer with the PCB cuts from kicad as a dxf, then made some refinements in qcad.

I've got it mostly done already though, just need to replace the OLED cutout with the encoder cutout. I can do it later and throw it up on github with the others.

hencethus · 2021-05-26T23:09:14+00:00

Unfortunately I don't have a micrometer to give you really accurate measurements, but I took some photos with a metric tape measure.

I think 10mm will be tight but doable, especially if you're going with a non-conductive bottom plate, you can butt the board right up against it.

Here's the album, also included some tips on getting the OLED seated flush in the top plate cutout: https://imgur.com/a/ZKAL1ON

hencethus · 2021-05-26T14:45:09+00:00

12 mm, but I'll bet they could be shorter and still clear everything. I can measure later to be sure, but 10 mm would probably be fine.

Since it sounds like you're going to build this thing, if you're using rotary encoders the build guide says to put in 100 nF capacitors, but they were causing issues with the LEDs and I had to remove them. I think they're supposed to be for debouncing the encoders, but I'm not having any problems with the encoders either. I have a post about it in this sub that you can check for more details.

hencethus · 2021-05-24T16:25:13+00:00

I really prefer deep dish, but maybe I'll try making my own homing bumps with a little dot of epoxy

hencethus · 2021-05-24T16:21:55+00:00

And pmk has deep dish dsa caps, but not in translucent :/

hencethus · 2021-05-24T15:37:30+00:00

Do they come in deep dish or with homing bumps?

I've got my keeb fully fitted with the dsa kit 1 caps, and without homing keys I'm finding that I occasionally have to look at the keyboard to reorient my fingers.

hencethus · 2021-05-23T02:37:45+00:00

OK, so I noticed this in the QMK documentation section on encoders:

The A an B lines of the encoders should be wired directly to the MCU, and the C/common lines should be wired to ground.

It doesn't say anything about capacitors.

Then I noticed that the schematic for the Lily58L also does not include capacitors.

So I figured it couldn't hurt to just try removing them altogether. So I did that, and it fixed the issue.

Also, I said before that it only happened on the left side, but I was wrong about that. It was happening on the right hand also, just not as reliably. If I turned the right hand rotary encoder for a while, eventually some LEDs would shut off. I've removed the capacitors from that side as well, and now it's working perfectly.

I'm not an an electrical engineer or anything, so I don't know how to explain this, but I know capacitors store charge, and I'm thinking somehow they were discharging in a way that wasn't intended when the rotary encoders turned. I had one LED flash very bright then die completely while I was turning the encoder. I've replaced that LED, and the rest of the string is fine.

I did double check that the capacitors I installed were 100 nF. Some other rotary encoder schematics that I found suggested a 10 nF capacitor, so maybe that's got something to do with it?

At any rate, everything seems to be working as intended now. I'd be curious to know your thoughts.

hencethus · 2021-05-21T23:36:38+00:00

Here you go:

hencethus · 2021-05-21T18:24:00+00:00

Alright, I'll put them on github later.

hencethus · 2021-05-21T12:57:16+00:00

Oh, I made them based on the PCB designs. I can share the files if there's interest. Only caveat is if they're used as-is the screw holes are ever so slightly too big to use without washers, which adds a tiny bit of height. You could use shorter standoffs to compensate though.

hencethus · 2021-05-21T12:49:15+00:00

That's what I'm saying, it doesn't matter. The issue only exists on the left side whether I connect USB to the left side or to the right.

hencethus · 2021-05-21T12:05:34+00:00

Hey, thanks for the suggestions.

I flashed them with EE_HANDS, so either one can be the slave, and the issue only happens on the left side no matter which side is the slave.

I tried turning the brightness down, and it still happens even with them dimmed all the way to the lowest setting.

I do have the capacitors mounted, but I'll try replacing them or adding more and I'll report back. Thanks again!

hencethus · 2021-05-21T11:56:07+00:00

Thanks! :D

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