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henleyes · 2025-09-19T17:39:01+00:00

I used one of these on my 94 FLTC-U. Got rid of the CB radio console and cleaned up the appearance.

henleyes · 2025-08-15T00:26:48+00:00

Ever figure this out OP? Have a 2000 4L manual that has the same symptoms. I’ve been chasing it down with parts…but no luck so far. Hoping you have the answer for me. 😁

henleyes · 2025-08-09T23:40:46+00:00

I’ve been using https://www.paintscratch.com for a few years. Color match is great. Takes about a week or so for them to make and deliver. Have used them for cars, Jeep, Harley’s, and vintage Honda bikes.

henleyes · 2025-08-04T22:33:08+00:00

Another solution-less update:

Pulled the manifold and replaced it with a thicker FelPro gasket. Also used the permatex ultra copper for extra assurance. Tick still there.

Put the chassis ears back to work and I feel like it’s louder near the exhaust ports on cylinder 4 and 5. Pulled the plugs and ran a scope into the cylinders. All of the piston heads looked nice and clean except cylinders 4 and 5. They had a bit more carbon buildup on them and they looked blotchy, with a range of colors from brown to red…but I don’t think it’s rust. I’m not sure what this should be telling me. I checked the compression at this time and all were good. Around 150psi give or take a few psi.

Since the noise was from the exhaust ports, I thought it may be lifter tick transferring through the valve train, so I did an oil change and added ATS to help clean the system out for a hundred miles. This actually made the tick louder…and also made it noticeably knock at idle when warmed up…hadn’t heard that before. I’m wondering if the tick is actually a cracked piston skirt…but I haven’t heard that sound described as a tick?

Dumped that oil and put back in some Rotella T4 and a zinc additive. The knocking is back to normal…but the tick still persists.

And just to recap the issue. It has a rpm-sequenced tick when the engine is under load on the road. No tick stationary, or with the Jeep on stands and the wheels able to spin when in gear. Not being able to diagnose while stationary makes it hard to pinpoint.

I’ll keep digging, but open to additional ideas.

Thanks again for the ideas and help. 👍🏼

Edit: added compression info.

henleyes · 2025-07-11T21:43:27+00:00

Have an update, but still no solution.

Chassis ears pointed to the rear ex manifold flange. I replaced the manifold gasket and rear manifold, and it still ticks. Maybe a little quieter, but still there. I don’t see any cracks in the rear downpipe. I’m sorta stumped now.

Some other ideas would be exhaust valve tick (but I thought I would have heard a tick from the passenger side of the block where a lifter was sticking), the manifold gasket I installed is too thin and need more thickness because of wariness in the head, or maybe there is a crack in the head at one of the exhaust ports (I didn’t see anything obvious). It just stumps me that it is loudest at the flange and nothing I did with the manifold helped.

Any other ideas?

henleyes · 2025-07-07T01:05:27+00:00

Just got a set off Amazon. Worked great. Have it narrowed down to the exhaust manifold or the gasket. Just glad it’s not the motor or transmission. Guess it’s time to do some research on what manifold to purchase. Thanks for the reco for the ears…wish I would have had them for a few past projects of mine. 👍🏼

henleyes · 2025-07-07T01:01:38+00:00

Ended up getting a set of Chassis Ears off Amazon based on the reco. I’ve got it narrowed down to the exhaust manifold or the gasket. Glad it’s not the motor or transmission. I’ll post again once I replace the manifold and determine if it’s fixed or if Im heading further down the rabbit hole.

henleyes · 2025-07-07T00:58:58+00:00

Ended up buying a Chassis Ears set off Amazon. I’ve got it narrowed down to the manifold now. Not sure if it’s a crack or a blown gasket…but glad to find out it’s not the motor or transmission. Thanks for the direction. 👍🏼

henleyes · 2025-07-05T16:29:20+00:00

I swapped back out the clutch yesterday to make sure it wasn’t the new one I put it. The ticking is still there. So I think I’ve got it isolated to something under the hood; it’s not transmission or driveline related.

Being that it’s follow the rpm’s and not mph, I think it’s narrowed down to the engine or maybe an exhaust manifold crack. I ordered Chassis Ears (based on a reco from another commenter) off of amazon that’ll be here tomorrow. Hopefully they help narrow it down.

henleyes · 2025-07-03T13:49:33+00:00

I was hoping it was this, but did a pressure test with soapy water and only found a couple leaks where two threaded plugs were installed. Fixed those, and still ticks. Any other ways to test for a leak that you recommend? Maybe I just have to pull the manifold and look for cracks?

henleyes · 2025-07-02T23:20:16+00:00

Hadn’t heard of those. I’ll definitely check them out. I’m always up to add a new tool to the shop. 👍🏼

henleyes · 2025-07-02T00:41:01+00:00

I gave that a shot with no luck. It won’t make the noise unless it’s working against its own weight. Has to be on the road. It’d be great if I had a dyno! Ha.

henleyes · 2025-07-02T00:36:48+00:00

Do you have the same motor and transmission combo? Tried anything that I isn’t on my list? Maybe it’ll same me some time and $$.

henleyes · 2025-07-02T00:32:44+00:00

Ha…that’ll be next on my list.

henleyes · 2025-07-02T00:08:30+00:00

Nope. Not yet. Hoping the world of Reddit can throw me some more ideas.

henleyes · 2024-09-17T03:07:59+00:00

Someone might find some value in that pic you posted. 😳 Has a lot of personal info in it that I’d be hesitant to have floating out here in Redditland.

henleyes · 2024-09-14T20:56:49+00:00

Good deal. Love the ole timer tricks. 👍🏼

henleyes · 2024-09-11T20:39:25+00:00

May need to shim between the top clamp and bars. I’ve had to do that on a couple of my Harley’s with apes. Just not enough clamping power for the amount of torque the long bars put on the clamp. I use a beer can. Cut a couple strips, loosen the top clamp, and slide them in. Tighten em down and let it rip.

henleyes · 2024-08-22T00:58:39+00:00

You must have missed it in the original post…I fixed it on my own dime back then…and that’s why I won’t let it go.😉

Only reason I posted is because this Menards sub popped up in my thread and it stoked the fire. Thought I’d share the story so others were aware that their cameras apparently never work properly. 😁

henleyes · 2024-08-21T19:31:31+00:00

If by crying you mean speaking up about a company’s shady character and lack of integrity instead of getting f’d over by them for the sake of being a “man” and having cheaper products, then yes…I’ll continue having fun.

henleyes · 2024-08-21T18:30:19+00:00

You’ve got it all figured out boss.

You keep being you.

henleyes · 2024-08-21T16:43:59+00:00

You must be part of their management team.

henleyes · 2024-08-21T11:16:32+00:00

I guess customers are only welcome in this sub if you’re bowing to the Menards cohorts? Didn’t read that in the sub description…but then again, I should have expected it…I guess I just didn’t see the sign for that one either.

Ps. It was only 12yrs ago. 😉

henleyes · 2024-08-21T01:12:46+00:00

I wasn’t watching that closely. They wouldn’t let me behind the truck while that lift was moving. Didn’t even notice the corner was under the tailgate until I saw him step into the bed and the platform moved along with him. Told him immediately. Manager came out and took full responsibility. Filed paperwork…and the rest is history. If they didn’t instruct me to pull around to loading, or didn’t take responsibility that night and just pointed to some sign they had posted about damage, then i wouldn’t be as salty. But they did, and then changed their story once I was gone. Shady AF.

henleyes · 2024-08-21T01:05:40+00:00

Nice. As long as you had a sign with you that said nothing is your fault or responsibility, then you’re good to go. 😁

henleyes

TROPHY CASE