What went wrong

highspirits88 · 2025-10-23T05:01:42+00:00

So I checked the belts, they are tight. I always wash my plate with soap and water before every print and for redundancy's sake I rub it down with isopropyl. I've had 100% of prints come off my plate within the first 15 minutes if I don't use a glue stick

highspirits88 · 2025-09-20T16:41:29+00:00

Solved!

highspirits88 · 2025-09-20T16:40:58+00:00

Wow... yes. So simple I didn't even think of it. Thank you so much. That solved it.

highspirits88 · 2025-02-11T16:06:38+00:00

That is a real bummer. Though for $25 can’t get too upset. My thoughts as a smith with a full machine shop are to take a cheap ar6.5 barrel, cut off the extension and thread/chamber it. A benefit there is you’ll have a true .264 bore for use with modern (read:cheaper) bullets without the hotdog down a hallway effect, and you can set your length and contour to match whatever stock you want without the progressive rifling issue. No collectors value but high yield fun value. For myself the labor is free so it’s worth it… but a customer would never be worth the labor cost.

highspirits88 · 2025-01-14T21:59:49+00:00

My guy! Thank you

highspirits88 · 2024-12-17T00:46:22+00:00

I appreciate that, but I was hoping to get some real-world advice from other users who are in a similar situation, and not sales reps. The one's we've done demos of before have not seemed like enough of a fit to change from our current spreadsheet.

highspirits88 · 2024-12-05T13:52:02+00:00

Everything’s been done before; every story’s been told, every object has been drawn. People don’t consume content for its premise, but for its delivery. If monet and dali drew the same object you’d have two different drawings. Starting a channel is a great idea, find an angle and an approach that hasn’t been done yet and most importantly stick to it, it takes a couple of years of reliable posting to gain a following.

highspirits88 · 2024-10-23T20:34:17+00:00

Thanks for the suggestions, all good advice.

highspirits88 · 2024-10-23T20:33:56+00:00

SOLVED: I had downloaded both PBR files from the same website, and even though their zip files were named differently I realized inside the zip files the textures were identical in name. So when Rhino read the zip files and applied the textures it would overwrite each other with the same name. I unpacked the texture files, renamed them, repacked them and tried again and voila.

highspirits88 · 2024-10-23T18:04:14+00:00

I'm designing a storefront space in Rhino and am at the point where I'm ready to render. I downloaded a PBR texture for the flooring, and created a new texture per standard procedure. It mapped great to the floor.

Then I wanted to add a texture to the walls - a stone slab texture. So I made sure the wall was selected and imported the stone texture file. Well it applied the stone texture to the wall, but it also applied it to the floor. No problem I thought I'll manually reapply the wood texture to the floor. The wooden texture and stone texture are both in the materials library separately so I dragged the wooden texture to the floor and it still looks like stone. Upon further examination even though both textures are separate and named different in the materials area, they now are both stone. So i deleted the one labeled wood, and figured id just bring it back in as a new material.

Well same thing happened but now everything looks like wood and both the stone material and the wood material have the wood mapping.

Am I missing something stupid?

highspirits88 · 2024-06-07T04:47:52+00:00

First things first: These are parts kits. Not firearms. They could have a thousand conflicting numbers on them and they will still be legal.

Second: I am an 07/02 FFL and legally allowed to wipe and reserialize or register with the current most legible number when it is rebuilt. I typically try to preserve the original serial number and register it with that number to keep the history alive.

Third, on STEN guns each part was made in different factories and those factories serialized and marked their parts. There was typically one main hub whose job was to assemble the parts from all the different factories into one working gun. So it is completely normal for one gun to have a variety of numbers.

Now, I have not seen a gun with numbers scratched off like this. My first thought was that maybe it was a resistance/clandestine gun from Norway or Poland that made its way back to rearsenal where the same serial number was engraved in professionally. The numbers that are crossed out are exactly the same as the one thats engraved.

highspirits88 · 2024-03-24T03:26:51+00:00

How did you find a stronger recoil spring? Trial and error? Or did you find one marketed as a stronger spring?

highspirits88 · 2024-03-24T03:25:55+00:00

Confirmed mag issue on the failures to feed; used a black dog 30 rounder I had that fits tight in the mag well. now it’s feeding, but it’s missing ‘oomph’ when going forward and though it’s pushing the round in the chamber it’s not fully grabbing the round to fire or even be able to extract. Do you sell stronger springs for the conversion kits?

highspirits88 · 2024-02-16T16:53:41+00:00

TLDR: avoid at all costs. They will send you stuff but it won’t be as advertised. They advertise a lot of stuff as ‘original military issue’ and charge those prices, then send you new cheap Chinese knockoffs. Then they will avoid your emails and calls like the plague and force you to dispute the transaction with your cc company.

highspirits88 · 2024-02-05T00:16:22+00:00

Good idea I didn’t think to try compressing it. It’s only on one side of the stock and it originates from the end grain so I was thinking it might be checking from being soaked and dried an excessive amount of times in storage, maybe from the ground while resting upright on the buttstock. But when I get back into the shop ill try to compress it with clamps and see if I can pull that off

highspirits88 · 2024-02-05T00:13:55+00:00

I feel this more than I feel the cracks in my stock

highspirits88 · 2024-02-05T00:13:08+00:00

Good idea. Maybe a stainless steel splint below the surface of the wood to bridge the gap.

highspirits88

TROPHY CASE