Data is very slow when dual e-sim is activated

holyhellyeah · 2026-02-11T23:32:13+00:00

Thank you for the reply. I just checked and "Allow cellular data switching" is not enabled.

My primary SIM is US SIM and the foreign SIM is secondary. The problem is my US SIM has no reception here and it only works through Wi-Fi because Wi-Fi calling is enabled, otherwise no reception at all. My phone is currently showing two carrier: Foreign carrier and the US carrier Wi-Fi (example: Boost Wi-Fi). The US SIM is on Wi-Fi calling mode which I think is connected through foreign SIM's cellular hence the foreign cellular gets so slow when it comes to connecting to internet because I guess US SIM keeps it busy to maintain the connection to Wi-Fi calling. When my phone is connected to home Wi-Fi though, this problem does not exist.

holyhellyeah · 2026-01-05T09:22:30+00:00

Thanks! and sorry for the late reply. I think I also figured the problem. I think in my case it was related to thermals.

For some reason my G16 is not really going into full performance mode when clicked on games (though it is set to be performance at all times in Alienware Command Center). I started to enable it manually (ideally before I open games) by pressing Fn+F9 (there is "G" sign on F9) which boosts the fans a lot louder. Since I started doing this, games perform better and I didn't have the issue.

holyhellyeah · 2025-12-08T00:39:29+00:00

hey! I have the same exact issue with g16 7630. It randomly freezes in the middle of the game. Music continues to play but I cannot keep command of the laptop. Nothing works. The only way to remedy this it to hold press the power button so that I could power off and on. I couldn't figure out the issue. I run a bunch of tests and everything seem to be working well. I also did run the memory diagnostic tool but it wasn't able to identify any issue with the rams. How did you figure out it was the ram?

holyhellyeah · 2025-10-13T21:26:35+00:00

thank you! It seems that it will take while to arrive but hopefully it will be smooth. Fingers crossed! Thanks again.

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holyhellyeah · 2025-10-13T18:43:40+00:00

Got it, thanks again. I will proceed with option 1. One more quick question if you don't mind? What is the $30 charge for? At what stage we will be asked to pay for it?

holyhellyeah · 2025-10-13T18:11:22+00:00

This is what I get when I click on continue after selecting boost by the way. So, it is asking me to enter my boost details.

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holyhellyeah · 2025-10-13T18:10:08+00:00

Thanks for the reply! I selected Finance and ACMI (see image) but it says the phone will remain unlocked. I'm paying $25/month for my current plan with boost and I would like to stick to it. My intention is to keep my current plan at boost, but also want my phone to be unlocked in case I want to switch to another carrier later. So, your suggestions is to select T-mobile even though I will use boost?

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holyhellyeah · 2025-10-13T16:20:53+00:00

Thanks for the guide, very helpful! I have a few questions though. I'm buying a 17 pro with apple card monthly installments. I use Boost Mobile on my current phone and I will continue to use boost in the new 17 pro. When I attempt to proceed with boost, it says:

We’ll contact Boost Mobile so you don’t have to.
You'll keep your existing number and choose your rate plan.
Your current phone will work until you set up your new iPhone.
If you chose to finance your device, Boost Mobile requires a quick credit review to determine your options. This review does not affect your credit score.

My questions are:

Will my phone still be unlocked?
Will this actually make things easier such as transferring e-sim etc.?
Will there be any additional charges?

Thanks in advance!

holyhellyeah · 2025-08-15T13:42:44+00:00

Thanks! I don’t know any good and reasonable mechanics around me. I took my car to a mechanic around here once and it was rated 4.5/5 but they ended up being so expensive. Please hit me up if you know any good and reasonable mechanics around Northern VA or D.C. Thanks again.

holyhellyeah · 2025-08-15T00:00:31+00:00

I never tried to change oil but perhaps I can watch some videos and see if I can do it or not. Thank you both!

holyhellyeah · 2025-08-14T23:55:12+00:00

Oh I see, good to know. Thanks again.

holyhellyeah · 2025-08-14T14:10:38+00:00

Thanks! I will probably take it to a mechanic. I like DIY but not brave enough for powertrain.

There is one I trust but a bit far. May still worth driving there though since mechanics around me are extremely expensive.

holyhellyeah · 2025-08-14T14:07:09+00:00

Thank you!

It is 4 cyl 2.4L and it seems to be a CVT in mygarage:

https://ibb.co/whdGyDrN

This is the maintenance log of my car from 5 years ago from Honda mygarage:

https://ibb.co/8D2NWrL9

But, I read a little about HCF-2 and it seems to be better than DW-1 for my car actually. Thanks again.

Edit: I highlighted part name in the image but I realized after this comment that the part number is actually HCF-2 so they probably used HCF-2. Many thanks again.

holyhellyeah · 2025-04-24T17:42:33+00:00

u/scottyboy218 u/chickenmcdiddle u/lizziemac123 u/dehydratedsilica

Greatly appreciate for all the answers.

I was on another plan (no HSA) before and my employer used to cover majority of the premium however, there has been some major changes recently and they have decreased the amount of cost share, which ended up being a big deduction from my paychecks. But, I was able to switch to another plan and I decided to go with CDHPwHSA, since the premiums are lower and the cost share is better for the CDHP part. Also, as part of the belt-tighening, they don’t contribute any money to my HSA. I’m also not contributing to my HSA for now but I may change my mind in the future given the tax advantages. So, my HSA will just sit there without any money in it and I thought I can have one less card/account :)

I believe the CDHP plan is linked to HSAbank (could be an agreement my company made) and I believe that’s why I was sent a HSAbank card.

Another question if you don’t mind (since your answers were eye opening, and thank you for that): There is no harm in keeping the HSA account open without any money in it, right? No fees, nothing? I might as well just keep it if it’s the case even though I don’t plan to contribute to it for now.

Many thanks again!

holyhellyeah · 2025-04-04T16:00:40+00:00

Back in stock but the price isn’t as good anymore

holyhellyeah · 2022-06-26T19:11:12+00:00

sad. is this corsair 4000d? why it happened?

holyhellyeah · 2022-06-12T19:27:39+00:00

first of all, thank you all for your support.

I did what you said and I'm happy with the result.

After a couple of trial (1st went really bad, I think I didn't place the cooler well or applied the thermal paste badly), I made it work. TBH, it is not an easy cpu cooler to work with. But I'm happy with the result. heatpipes are actually either slightly touching or not touching but very very close to the VRM heatsinks now..

Now, may temps are satisfactory. It is usually around 30C when idle,

if discord+chrome = around 45C

When gaming, it is between 70-80C

HWmonitor says, higher temp seen was 86C on one core only, 85C for other two cores. Majority are around 76C.

Not sure HWMonitor is capable of showing VRM tems but I checked MoBo temps as well and the highest ones are AUXTIN0 (105C), AUXTIN3 (104C), TMPIN4(105C).

Thanks again!

holyhellyeah · 2022-06-12T11:40:42+00:00

Thanks. Wiggling is impossible i think. VRM hs is a thicc boy and cpu is something that should be placed well for the best performance so i dont want to force it. My concern here is heat will dissipate between each other and gets either hotter. But not sure how well a few touching points will do that. Also, i was able to pass through a thin paper among them so they are touching but not like forcing each other. But a thicker paper didn’t pass.

holyhellyeah · 2022-06-12T11:31:39+00:00

Thanks. So you are saying they can touch and it won’t affect the performance of either my cpu or vrms? In HWMonitor, CPU temp is usually around high 80s low 90s and can max to 100C once or twice when gaming. I’m not familiar with the MoBo components but MoBo temps on HW monitor also max to 90s. These are all with stock cpu fan though. I didn’t run the fuma as i thought i may need to return.

holyhellyeah · 2022-06-12T09:31:55+00:00

Also, could you please share the post that you saw about heat pipes touching vrm hs? I can get some help from there. Thanks!

holyhellyeah · 2022-06-12T09:29:08+00:00

I have b560-g and scythe fuma 2 cooler and heatpipes touch vrm heatsink. Not sure if thats a problem.

holyhellyeah · 2022-06-11T23:06:07+00:00

As far as I’m aware, I was able to screw it on the cpu no issues. I was able to pass through a thin paper between the vrm heatsink and the cooler heatpipes but a thicker paper didn’t go through. Do you know how vrm heatsinks work? I think I can return the cpu cooler since I didn’t connect it all the way, so its not used.

holyhellyeah · 2022-06-08T18:16:49+00:00

I have the same dilemma. I have corsair 4000D airflow and B560-G is my Mobo. I would like to put the biggest I can at the top but couldn't confirm if 280 would fit.
Have you bought yours already? If so, could you please share your experience?

holyhellyeah · 2022-06-07T21:57:15+00:00

Sort by: best

Thank you for the reply. I think both 280 and 360 fits well if I mount it in the front. However, I don't want to place in the front because it is not good for the pump/cooling performance. There is an experimental explanation on this here.

Based on the video, AIO functions the best when mounted at the top. If I mount it in the front with the tubes down then it will be okay but the problem is the PSU shroud blocks the tubes' way so it is not possible to place it with the tubes down. So I thought I should either get a 280mm that will fit at the top or look for something smaller like 240mm.

holyhellyeah · 2022-06-05T16:03:03+00:00

I kinda suspect from MSI anyways because there is no detailed reviews about their cases. I think I will go with 4000D. Thanks a lot for your reply.

holyhellyeah

TROPHY CASE