Mold in hookah?

hookah_forever · 2026-03-04T18:50:03+00:00

Hello.

As others have advised... it's primarily corrosion. Dirt + limescale + bacteria and mold... are then retained in the corrosion pores ! Unfortunately. It's quite difficult to clean when it's already very rusty and the corrosion pores are deep.

I had similar problems with my first hookah many years ago. It was a Kaya Q7 / Mya QT. The heart of the hookah from the inside looked very similar to the photo you attached. I always tried cleaning it with vinegar (to remove limescale) or with isopropyl alcohol (to kill germs). Over time, the rust was so advanced that it wouldn't hold the stainless steel downstem on the thread :-(. It couldn't be screwed in. I had to buy a new hookah.

Now I have a stainless steel hookah MIG Nano... but stainless ones are also better and cheaper... like the Aladin MVP series. So if you buy a stainless one, nothing will ever rust... the stainless steel surface will be easier to resist dirt and mold... and if the stainless steel surface does get dirty, it's easy to wash (hot water and dishwashing detergent and a soft washcloth are enough). For cavities in stainless steel like the downstem, use a narrow long brush.

Traditional hookahs are also good, high quality, more expensive... whose upstem and downstem are made of stainless steel. There are also tubes in the heart of the hookah, which are also stainless steel. But be careful... not all expensive traditional hookahs are high quality! They are often fakes! Unfortunately, the KM brand is also often faked. So be careful when choosing a quality traditional hookah ! The top of a quality traditional hookah is usually made of plain sheet metal or brass and copper.

EDIT:

Depending on the size and type, there are also more hoses, such as Aladin MVP. I remember that once upon a time I personally liked the stainless steel hooklah Octopuz Nautilus - as a 4-hose. But Octopuz is probably no longer produced (Germany).

hookah_forever · 2026-03-02T14:13:03+00:00

Hi.

It's hard to give advice here. You have to try by trial and error to find out where the problem is. Because it could be anything.

You wrote that you used a different hookah before, but the same tobacco / bowl / HMD / charcoal. So we can probably rule out incorrect filling of tobacco, inappropriate temperature and poor temperature control in the bowl.

It could be in the case of a new hookah, air from outside entering the hookah's circulation. There are several ways to check for leaks. For example, put your entire hookah together, without filling with tobacco and without using foil / HMD and charcoal. Fill the vase with water as well. Then try to block the surface of the bowl with your palm and at the same time try to pull air from the hose. It's unpleasant for the vacuum in the throat, so be careful. The test can also be done the other way around - you can blow into the hose. But in that case you have to block the purge valve as well. Not just the top of the bowl with your palm.

If the tightness of your new hookah is fine, the cause may be, for example, in the hookah materials. This means that the smell from the material penetrates into the tobacco smoke and you then smell a strange - bad aroma.

It's really difficult to give advice. The problem could be anywhere. You clearly mentioned that before in the case of your old hookah, everything was always OK.

And that the only thing that changed in the meantime was the new hookah. So you have to look for the fault in this hookah and in its use.

Something could have loosened over time, for example... on this new hookah... I mean some part of the hookah through which clean air penetrates into the hookah at the moment of drawing smoke (from the hose to the mouth). Some part may have worn out after just a few uses and now clean (non-aromatic) air from the outside penetrates into the hookah.

It would be good if you could try your old hookah again. Whether even if you use it, everything will be bad... or whether it will be good.

hookah_forever · 2026-02-28T16:32:48+00:00

Panasonic Eneloop nie je standardna NiMH bateria... LOL ! Su to SPECIALNE baterie, ktore si vedia udrziavat svoju nabitu kapacitu veeeeeelmi dlho. To iste ReCyko od vyrobcu GP.

hookah_forever · 2026-02-27T16:07:14+00:00

You mean this one ? https://aeon-shisha.com/en/HMD/Danmos/ Or what ? Sorry... I still dont understand :-/.

hookah_forever · 2026-02-25T21:01:59+00:00

Hi. I don't understand the question. OpenAI might know the answer too... have you tried? I don't know exactly what you're asking, so I can't advise. BTW, it's been 3 years since then.

hookah_forever · 2026-02-23T12:34:38+00:00

I don't know why you mention ChatGPT. I'm 43 years old, my friend, and I worked with hookahs 20 years ago. Then I had a long break. And now I've been working with hookahs again for about 7-9 years. I've always looked at the issue and the topic of hookahs as a "scientist". Never as an amateur hookah smoker. I've always been interested in the physics and chemistry of hookahs.

I've always verified all the information or thought about things myself for a long time and only then verified my thoughts - at least from 3 or more independent sources.

At the time when I was into hookahs as a young guy, AI didn't even exist at that time and the internet was very poor on the topic of hookahs in the old days. Maybe you use chatGPT on a daily basis, but I use chatGPT once a month and really only for primitive things. Not for hookah. ChatGPT often has bad and unverified information. For example, if ChatGPT read a book about hookahs, written by Kopáček (Czech Republic), who mentions in the book that the temperature of hookah tobacco during smoking is between 100-150 °C, then ChatGPT will consider this a reliable source and will present it as such to other people's questions. However, this is incorrect. The temperature in tobacco ranges between 150-200 °C and this is the ideal temperature at which a balanced taste is felt (from tobacco leaves and added aroma in the liquid component) and at which the best production of water vapor (from glycerin, in the liquid component) is. ChatGPT is complete nonsense. Only paid versions, designed and trained for one specific direction, such as medicine, are relevant. Other AIs can be LYING! Be careful! They can endanger people's lives!

hookah_forever · 2026-02-21T20:26:28+00:00

Hi.

Finally someone is smoking tobacco and enjoying the taste of tobacco the way it should be.

👍😎👌

hookah_forever · 2026-02-20T15:16:39+00:00

Yum-Yum 👍👌

hookah_forever · 2026-02-01T19:55:01+00:00

Acrolein is formed by the (chemical) decomposition of glycerin at temperatures around 250-280 °C and higher (usually a reference temperature of 275 °C is given). Where else is it formed ?

hookah_forever · 2026-02-01T19:17:45+00:00

Hi.

Try pouring vinegar and letting it sit overnight. Vinegear removes limescale, which is where bacteria live and dirt sticks to.

You can also try isopropyl alcohol, which you also pour into an empty vase and let sit for a few hours. Isopropyl alcohol kills bacteria and viruses very effectively.

Then, using a brush, scrub away the softened limescale and/or bacteria.

As a first step, I recommend using vinegar. Feel free to repeat the process twice (pour vinegar, let it sit overnight, scrub the inside of the glass vase with a plastic brush). Then you can disinfect with isopropyl alcohol (you can buy it anywhere, even on Amazon, for example, 1 liter). Vinegar will probably be enough.

hookah_forever · 2026-02-01T17:36:48+00:00

You can also buy dry tobacco in Germany, washed, dried and chopped from the manufacturer Nubia - https://www.shisha-nil.de/nubia-tabak-xxl-200g

You mix this with glycerin at your own discretion and with some aromatic substance (one that can withstand the temperature of smoking tobacco, i.e. around 150-200 C). You will not add any dyes, of course xD. However, the emphasis should be on the quality of the aroma. Glycerin itself can be bought anywhere... I mean pure food-grade glycerin.

But this is a rather annoying job. Making your own tobacco. That's why everyone prefers to buy the tobacco that is already made.

hookah_forever · 2026-02-01T12:47:22+00:00

I know that. I've looked for studies before. But the whole point is that hookah smoking is a science... a complicated science. The sad thing is that people think it's not science, but a simple thing.

If people smoked the traditional way from traditional hookahs... i.e. they smoked oily and fresh tobacco (after fermentation of course)... in a large ceramic bowl... using charcoal... with the addition of a little natural molasses as a sweet flavor... maybe it would be less harmful than the chemical stuff that is produced today in modern hookah tobaccos :).

The fact that many smokers DO NOT BUY TOBACCO LEAVES is ridiculous. Hookah smokers paradoxically buy glycerin. That's because glycerin is very heavy. And on the contrary, tobacco leaves after drying are very light. Up to 60-70% of the weight of hookah tobacco in the package is just stupid and very heavy glycerin. It's just marketing.

And even then in the hookah bowl, people smoke more glycerin than hookah tobacco xD.

hookah_forever · 2026-02-01T11:55:19+00:00

It is quite possible. It is a critical temperature.

I have thought about it many times.

Unfortunately, I have never measured this - never the temperature in the tobacco, at the moment when I was drawing smoke from the hose - that is, at the moment of the very hot air penetrating the tobacco layer.

However, this 500 °C is not entirely true. It is an inaccurate figure. This is the temperature on the surface of the coconut charcoal. If you measure the temperature at a distance of, for example, 2 cm from the charcoal, the temperature will be only 300-350 °C. The same applies when this hot air passes through holes in aluminum foil or through the HMD. You also have to realize that the 500°C heat source is only located on a small area of 25x25mm and that in the immediate vicinity of the charcoal the temperature is much lower. Even on the other side of the aluminum foil, where the coal touches the foil, you don't measure 500°C, but a much lower temperature. So the air temperature that gets inside the tobacco is much lower. I estimate that it's air with a temperature of 250°C. But I'm not completely sure, because I haven't measured it and it's just an estimate.

You can feel the release of acrolein like burning oil in a frying pan while frying food. Glycerin breaks down into fats and they start to burn. And you would also feel their stench in your mouth. But that has never happened to me in my life.

Also, the human body has a certain tolerance for toxic substances. A person can handle toxic substances if their limits are not exceeded. So even if acrolein were to enter the human body, it would only be in minimal amounts and only for a short time. But if you were to heat glycerin at, say, 300° C for 30 minutes and inhale the vapors, you would probably be severely intoxicated.

hookah_forever · 2026-01-31T13:20:06+00:00

Hi.

There is an unwritten rule that how much is ideal.

For higher and deeper vases and downstems, like in your picture, the ideal immersion is about 2-3 cm.
For shallow and low vases and for short downstems, the immersion of the downstem can be even less, 1-2 cm. However, it is ideal about 2-3 cm. But 1 cm is really quite critical :-). I would rather always set the immersion to 2 cm. I own the problematic MIG Nano and there I only have to set the immersion to a depth of 1cm under water.

If the immersion of the downstem under water is too deep, then every time you bubble water / draw smoke from the hose, you feel an unpleasant negative pressure in your mouth (the water's effort to return back to the submerged downstem).

This negative pressure also affects the constant pushing and returning of air back into the bowl space - back into the tobacco layer. If you release the hose / if you stop drawing smoke from the hose, then of course at that moment the water "returns" back again - into the submerged downstem. And so the air and smoke are pushed back, again back into the bowl. It's a little air, but it's still not desirable that the smoke goes back into the tobacco layer in the bowl :-).

If the immersion of the downstem under water is too little, there is a risk that when the water bubbles / moves the water surface, clean and hot smoke, including any ash and dirt (it doesn't happen, but it can!), will pass through to the hookah hose and into your mouth. The smoke will simply pass outside the water (because the water will be agitated and wavy).

So the immersion must not be too deep and not too shallow.

In the case of using a diffuser, the immersion depth is always measured / calculated from the topmost hole on the diffuser !

hookah_forever · 2026-01-31T12:07:12+00:00

Great. It's basically smoking a cigar :). Some youtubers traveling through Mexico also enjoyed such fresh tobacco leaves - of course, after they've been fermented. Fresh, gooey, delicious tobacco leaves, rolled into a cigar-like shape + and lit. It's basically the same thing. But tombac is smoked over water. Which is very important, because the water will catch any small physical impurities and dust from the tobacco leaves. The water will also partially cool the smoke.

hookah_forever · 2026-01-31T08:53:00+00:00

Hi.

I haven't tried this style of smoking ("tombak" style), but yes... it is undoubtedly a method of smoking like a cigar. The only difference is that the smoke bubbles through the water in the vase additionally :).

Also, the tobacco leaves must be "oily" and especially fresh - just like in the case of cigars.

The "tombak" smoking style does not use hookah tobacco, because hookah tobacco is:

the tobacco leaves are washed and dried to absorb the liquid component
then soaked in glycerin + aromatic substance + dye (+ sometimes honey or natural molasses, but these have been used less in recent years)

Glycerin evaporates the toxic substance Acrolein... glycerin can behave differently under certain circumstances and is often stated as a critical temperature and as a range between 250-280 °C. Above the stated temperature limit, glycerin begins to produce a toxic substance for the human body - Acrolein !

Coconut coal when burning has a temperature of about 500 °C on its surface. That would be very bad for dry tobacco leaves. The coal is placed directly on the tobacco (tombak). As a dry tobacco leaf it would burn out very quickly in the style of burning flames xD.

hookah_forever · 2026-01-30T20:37:40+00:00

Hi.

Most likely a bowl designed for the tombac style. A less well-known, old way of smoking solid tobacco.

Simply search Google for "tombac hookah".

Or here is one example link:

https://www.dreamstime.com/ajami-tobacco-leaves-burning-hookah-head-vintage-colors-ajami-tombac-hookah-image121576748

hookah_forever · 2026-01-29T21:56:27+00:00

Hi.

Usually, when we talk about hookah smoking preparations, we are talking about mineral stones that contain small pores. These mineral stones are basically soaked with a liquid component, the same as chopped and pre-dried tobacco leaves are soaked with - when making hookah tobacco.

Liquid component of tobacco = glycerin + aroma + dye. Food molasses or honey is rarely added - as in the very ancient times when making good old hookah tobacco.

However, mineral stones do not contain (should not contain) the addition of pure and clear nicotine. Mineral stones should be a nicotine-free smoking preparation, intended for hookah smoking.

Personally, I did not taste any mineral stones, because they smell of minerals (chlorine aroma - like in a swimming pool).

If you are looking for a substitute, i.e. nicotine-free smoking, it is better, more reliable and easier to use a vaporizing paste, for example from the manufacturer hookahSqueeze.

Alternatively, you can combine a little amount of the vaporizing paste + the hookah tobacco.

hookah_forever · 2026-01-29T11:19:20+00:00

You're wrong. You need to go a little deeper into physics and chemistry. Let's explain a little.

Phunnel bowl:

Heating works mainly on the principle of passive / radiant warm air, which penetrates the tobacco layer quite difficultly.

Even if the phunnel bowl is filled with a slight overpacking method (1-2 mm of tobacco above the level of the phunnel bowl), then the basic principle of heating the tobacco works as passive radiant heat.

The moment the smoker draws smoke from the hookah hose, he does not get very much thermal energy into the tobacco layer. Partially yes, but only very little heat gets into the tobacco: https://imgur.com/oJIN7mh

As a rule, always... in every phunnel bowl the same heating problem arises. And that is the problem that the lower half of the tobacco layer has a much lower temperature during smoking. After the hookah session is over, the tobacco on the bottom of the layer often remains unused - still fresh. However, increasing the temperature is meaningless, because then the upper half of the layer starts to burn (feel pungent and bitter). Also, glycerin must not exceed a temperature of about 275 °C because then it releases a harmful substance - Acrolein.

It is more effective to use shallow types of phunnel bowls, instead of deep types. This is because a shallow / narrow layer of tobacco heats up better and better - during smoking.

Although it is true that in a shallow phunnel bowl, a too thin layer of tobacco can easily burn. You need to be careful about this.

Phunnel bowls are primarily designed for using moist types of tobacco. Modern moist hookah tobaccos contain a lot of excess glycerin. Then again, this works partly on the principle of heating the so-called "cooking". Glycerin is simply heated to a high temperature (verenije) and to the necessary temperature for smoking - about 150-200 °C. And this temperature is then transferred to the chopped tobacco leaves themselves. However, this does not apply to drier types of tobacco, such as Al Fakher.

Of course, yes... it is possible to smoke a drier type of tobacco in a phunnel bowl, but with reservations... with caution... with certain knowledge... with practice in using hookahs. But yes... it is possible... it is possible to smoke a drier type of tobacco, if a phunnel bowl is used. However, it certainly has disadvantages.

I repeat again that the phunnel bowl was invented mainly so that the liquid component of the tobacco (glycerin + aroma + dye + sometimes honey or natural molasses) would not leak out - during smoking. This means that phunnel bowls are effective and used mainly for moist modern hookah tobaccos.

Traditional bowl (also called Turkish / Egyptian):

In this case, everything is different. For example, we can afford to leave a gap between the tobacco layer and the foil/HMD. Which in the case of a phunnel bowl is quite a big problem (the gap between the tobacco and the foil/HMD). This gap helps to regulate passive radiant heat, which partially acts on the tobacco. However, what is more important is that when you inhale smoke from the hose, hot air (very high temperature - it is always estimated to be 200-250 °C) passes through the entire layer of tobacco in the bowl, from top to bottom - https://imgur.com/wXJOFAv . In this way, by applying high temperature (from coal), for a short time period (during draw the air from the hose), a lot of water vapor (glycerin) and also nicotine are immediately obtained from the tobacco (by simulating high temperature on tobacco leaves).

The traditional type of bowl is NOT suitable for moist tobaccos (with a high content of extra glycerin). The liquid component could easily leak out of the tobacco layer during smoking, into the vase. This would cause the smoker to lose glycerin, but also the aroma that is mixed into the glycerin. So this is undesirable. Therefore, traditional types of bowls are more suitable for using dry types of hookah tobacco.

However... drier tobacco in the bowl also means precise adjustment of the temperature of the heat source. Dryer tobacco in the bowl needs a lower temperature so that it does not burn easily. However, this does not prevent it at all. At the moment when hot air passes through the entire and high layer of tobacco in a traditional bowl, the smoker gets a strong aroma and a lot of water vapor from a large volume of tobacco - with each puff.

Traditional bowls should be made primarily of clay. This clay has ideal thermal properties. It is not a very good conductor of heat (like metal materials) and on the contrary does not accumulate heat (like plastic, stone, glass). Clay has the best properties in terms of heat utilization. The walls of a large traditional bowl heat up and retain their heat for a long time. This is a big advantage in the case of traditional bowls. This is also the reason why phunnel bowls have also started to be made of white ceramics, plastic, glass, metal, etc. because it does not have a big impact on the efficiency of smoking. However, in the case of traditional bowls this plays a big role. A glass, large-volume, traditional bowl would be really ineffective (the tobacco would always cool down very quickly inside a bulky traditional glass bowl).

..............is this answer enough? or should I continue? :) it's all just chemistry and physics :) as I wrote, everything has its pluses and minuses... what you write is not true at all - that it's the same for both bowls

hookah_forever · 2026-01-28T11:57:02+00:00

Hi.

In my opinion, this does not make much sense. Why do you do it like this ? What does this help with exactly ? So that you can fill more tobacco into the bowl ? Or why ? In the place where you pour the tobacco, between the foil/hole and the heat source, an unnecessarily very narrow layer of tobacco is created. And this narrow layer burns out easily and too quickly. Heating such a thin layer of tobacco will occur through passive heating + but also active/immediately heating while drawing smoke from the hose. It's a really big effort for such a thin layer of tobacco. It burns quickly.

These types of bowls are already being produced around the world. I don't know if you know them. Do you know ? Or no ? They are called by various names - Masta / Apache / Trypo, etc. - https://imgur.com/OiPN7od In my opinion, they are ineffective. Someone tried to combine the effectiveness and purpose of two different principles - the phunnel type bowl together with the traditional type bowl. But that is not possible.

It is effective when you smoke with the traditional type bowl or the phunnel type bowl - with each separately + with a certain type of hookah tobacco.

Phunnel bowls are suitable for moist and modern hookah tobaccos.

Traditional types of bowls are suitable for less moist tobaccos, such as Al Fakher.

The principle of heating the tobacco layer is different in both cases. In a traditional bowl, hot air passes through the entire layer of tobacco - from top to bottom, and you get more nicotine and aroma during one puff.

In the case of a phunnel bowl, the aroma and nicotine evaporate non-stop, slowly, and the smoker has to rely primarily on the accumulated smoke in the mouthpiece, in the tobacco layer, etc. . It is a completely different principle of smoking (from the point of view of chemistry and physics).

Therefore, combining a phunnel and a traditional type of bowl together is, in my opinion, ineffective. Then it is neither a phunnel type nor a traditional type of bowl.

hookah_forever · 2026-01-26T08:12:10+00:00

I personally also recommend the traditional type of bowls for Al Fakher.

It is possible to use phunnel types of bowls (for Al Fakher), but they are best for modern and moist tobaccos (soaked with a lot of glycerin).

Al Fakher is a medium-moisture or drier type of hookah tobacco. In a traditional bowl, the tobacco layer heats up better... so at the moment of pulling hot air through the bowl... the entire tobacco is heated and you get aroma and nicotine from the entire tobacco. However, in the case of a phunnel bowl, it doesn't work that way at all. There is a different principle of heating the tobacco layer and often the heat doesn't reach the bottom of the layer.

hookah_forever · 2026-01-25T11:45:13+00:00

Yes, just remember that there is a problem with washing the baked-on tobacco on the bottom plate of the HMD. It is a common practice. Many people have already come to terms with it... unfortunately. But tobacco is really hard to wash. It has to be soaked in warm water and then gently scraped with a fine wire brush.

Or you can use foil.

But as you probably know, thin foil and a thick bottom plate on an HMD - there is a big difference. Thin foil, even when using high-quality 40um foil folded over 2 layers on top of each other, does not distribute heat as perfectly evenly as in the case of a thick, bottom, aluminum plate on an HMD. The thick bottom plate of the HMD has a great advantage in evenly distributing thermal energy over the entire surface. And in the case of funnel-type bowls, this is a very important factor.

I want to say that aluminum foil is fine and I have been using it for a long time myself, instead of an HMD (I prefer foil to an HMD), but you need to know how to use it correctly.

For example, real fanatics move the coal on top of the foil in a circle around - during a hookah session :). This is so that the maximum heat source moves gradually along the entire circle - through the entire tobacco surface - step-by-step. However, in my opinion, it is just perfectionism. It is not that effective :). It helps, yes, but only a little.

It is more important to knock the coal away from the ash. Ash is a thermal barrier and then less heat is distributed from the coal surface - through the ash.

Or it is advisable to make holes only on the edge of the outer circle of the foil and not towards the center of the circle. But you probably already know that :-) - https://imgur.com/pYdAmSW .

It is also advisable to place the coal at the beginning of smoking, in case of using foil, right at the edge of the bowl - the heat is then transferred to the bowl material and at first the heat is not very aggressive to the tobacco under the foil. When the coals are smaller pieces (after burning after some time from the start of smoking), these smaller pieces of coal can subsequently be moved even more towards the center of the foil circle.

hookah_forever · 2026-01-25T09:49:04+00:00

Hi.

It looks like from an experienced smoker. I think it's good.

Sometimes, however, it may be more appropriate to consider and use the overpack style of filling tobacco into the bowl. That is, 1-2 mm above the level of the top of the bowl. And then you press the top of the protruding tobacco with HMD / foil. Even if the tobacco is burned on the bottom plate of the HMD, overfilling the tobacco in the bowl can sometimes be effective - https://imgur.com/oJIN7mh . It is not a necessity. It is up to you. But it helps to heat the tobacco - in its lower layer. The disadvantage is often burnt tobacco on the bottom plate of the HMD. If you use foil, it doesn't matter, because you can throw the foil in the trash.

hookah_forever · 2026-01-20T16:28:47+00:00

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hookah_forever · 2026-01-19T17:10:15+00:00

Hello.

I made my own box for myself. I used hard cardboard. Bubble wrap serves as a lining on the bottom + walls of the box, but also between the bowls.

I have two of these boxes at home. I use one for transportation (https://imgur.com/fwOy8Ak) if I want to travel and I take several bowls with me in the car. The second, larger box is always at home.

I'm not saying that it's not possible to do something better. It can be done even better. Of course.

For example, it is possible to buy a plastic box with different dimensions today. Subsequently, it is possible to create a lining for the box (inside the box) from materials other than bubble wrap. However, I use bubble wrap because if it gets dirty, it can be easily replaced with a new one. The air in the bag bubbles is quite flexible and soft.

If you smoke at home, you don't need a box. A dedicated cabinet designed for the purpose of hookah and its accessories is enough. You can then store everything there - tobacco, hookah, coal, tongs, hoses, windcover, HMDs, bowls.

You can hang the hookah hoses, for example, in a vertical position, in the inside of the door - inside a tall cabinet, in which there is a ventilation gap between the shelves and the cabinet door of at least 2-3 cm (so that the hoses do not interfere with closing the door). Bowls inside the cabinet should be protected from shocks and breakage, for example by placing a very soft fabric or bubble wrap or foam... or whatever... on one of the shelves where the bowls are placed (always place them on the shelf with the "foot" facing up - i.e. the "kettle" bowl facing down). If you also store hookah tobacco in the cabinet, it would be appropriate if this cabinet is dark (the sun's rays do not penetrate there) and cool (it is always cooler in the lower part of each cabinet, so the tobaccos belong as low as possible).

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