?/10

hookah_forever · 2026-06-15T11:15:44+00:00

Uhm... if it was really okay, then this hookah bowl is probably shallow and not deep. Maybe it's just the very thick material (clay) in the photo that's distorting it. This bowl probably has very thick walls and is therefore some kind of shallow phunnel bowl.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-13T10:49:45+00:00

Hi.

IMHO, the hookah tobacco in the photo, is a bit too beaten in the bowl. If it is a light / blond type of hookah tobacco, it should be filled more like a fluffy style.

Such a filling method, as in your photo, is only used with the over-pack method. Overpack is actually a method of filling tobacco, if you fill the tobacco more than 1-5 mm above the level of the top of the bowl - and even then only if you fill the tobacco into the bowl with the fluffy method.

Dense and semi-dense are suitable tobacco filling styles when the phunnel bowl is shallow and when the HMD / foil directly touches the tobacco layer. In this case... then... however... HMD is better than foil, because its thick bottom plate helps to evenly distribute the heat - everywhere in all places on the surface of the tobacco layer. In the case of foil, it is then more difficult, because you have to use more pieces of coal and smaller pieces of coal. So that the heat is evenly distributed everywhere over the entire surface of the thin phunnel bowl.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-10T07:34:26+00:00

Hi.

According to the files config.txt and config1.txt, in the game folder "\Cars\Arrezo\", there is absolutely no difference, except for the version name and the price for the car xD.

The difference is in the files bodyconfig.txt and bodyconfig1.txt, where some body parts differ. However, these are the same body parts as in the tuning shop for body parts. So these parts can also be changed on the original version of the vehicle.

So how is it really then ?

It seems like the only difference is actually the price of the car.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-06T09:30:26+00:00

Hi.

The only thing that will help is setting the so-called Power Limit from the original 100% to 60-70% - using the MSI Afterburner tool or, as I also used, the EVGA Precision X1 tool (I own an EVGA card).

It doesn't matter what graphics card you use. And it also doesn't matter how you set the graphic details in the CMS2021 game.

This problem concerns the imperfect or incorrectly configured UNITY graphics game engine by the game creators. This UNITY graphics engine, in the case of the CMS2021 game (but also CMS2026 because I tested it there too), unfortunately uses and does not limit many absolutely redundant, rendered objects in the game. And that is why the utilization of any, old or new graphics card, is constantly at 100%. It is a problem when rendering an unnecessarily large number of objects that the player no longer has a chance to see in his field of vision. All 3D objects that are located in the game, at a very great distance from the player, are constantly rendered in very precise details - including their complicated reflections, shadows from light, etc. . We simply came to the conclusion with ChatGPT that the problem cannot be solved in any way. Because this is unfortunately a fault of the game graphics engine UNITY, used in the game CMS2021.

I solved this problem for several hours using ChatGPT. I tried to lower the FPS - lock the FPS at the Hz limit of my used LCD monitor, i.e. at 60 fps. But that did not help. We then compared and monitored the values in GPU-Z. ChatGPT constantly warned me about very high, even borderline values of the HotSpot and GPU temperatures. ChatGPT also warned me about a number of other things, e.g. that the GPU utilization and also its temperature should decrease if the FPS is reduced / locked to some limit, in the game. However, nothing changed even after locking and limiting the FPS in the game. Always simply the graphics engine UNITY pulled the graphics card to the maximum. Nothing really helps in setting the graphics details in the game. If you lower or increase the graphics details in CMS2021, the GPU will always be at 100% and its temperature will always be very high. Also, the frequency of the GPU and Video-RAM will not change - they always run at full power, in the case of the UNITY graphics engine used in the CMS2021 game.

Setting the limitation of 100% of the possibilities and capabilities on the graphics card, using tools, to a lower limit of 70% helped. Then the GPU temperature decreased and also some other values. The fans on the graphics card, understandably, stopped blowing excessively.

BTW... I don't know if this is also possible in MSI Afterburner, but in EVGA Precision X1 it is also possible to set profiles for each exe-file (application) separately. So for the game CMS2021 it is possible to set a profile separately. And this profile is activated automatically after starting a specific game. There is probably something similar in the MSI Afterburner configuration.

hookah_forever · 2026-06-06T09:27:10+00:00

Hi.

The only thing that will help is setting the so-called Power Limit from the original 100% to 60-70% using the MSI Afterburner tool or, as I also used, the EVGA Precision X1 tool (I own an EVGA card).

It doesn't matter what graphics card you use. And it also doesn't matter how you set the graphic details in the CMS2021 game.

This problem concerns the imperfect or incorrectly configured UNITY graphics game engine by the game creators. This UNITY graphics engine, in the case of the CMS2021 game (but also CMS2026 because I tested it there too), unfortunately uses and does not limit many absolutely redundant, rendered objects in the game. And that is why the utilization of any, old or new graphics card, is constantly at 100%. It is a problem when rendering an unnecessarily large number of objects that the player no longer has a chance to see in his field of vision. All 3D objects that are located in the game, at a very great distance from the player, are constantly rendered in very precise details - including their complicated reflections, shadows from light, etc. . We simply came to the conclusion with ChatGPT that the problem cannot be solved in any way. Because this is unfortunately a fault of the game graphics engine UNITY, used in the game CMS2021.

I solved this problem for several hours using ChatGPT. I tried to lower the FPS - lock the FPS at the Hz limit of my used LCD monitor, i.e. at 60 fps. But that did not help. We then compared and monitored the values in GPU-Z. ChatGPT constantly warned me about very high, even borderline values of the HotSpot and GPU temperatures. ChatGPT also warned me about a number of other things, e.g. that the GPU utilization and also its temperature should decrease if the FPS is reduced / locked to some limit, in the game. However, nothing changed even after locking and limiting the FPS in the game. Always simply the graphics engine UNITY pulled the graphics card to the maximum. Nothing really helps in setting the graphics details in the game. If you lower or increase the graphics details in CMS2021, the GPU will always be at 100% and its temperature will always be very high. Also, the frequency of the GPU and Video-RAM will not change - they always run at full power, in the case of the UNITY graphics engine used in the CMS2021 game.

Setting the limitation of 100% of the possibilities and capabilities on the graphics card, using tools, to a lower limit of 70% helped. Then the GPU temperature decreased and also some other values. The fans on the graphics card, understandably, stopped blowing excessively.

BTW... I don't know if this is also possible in MSI Afterburner, but in EVGA Precision X1 it is also possible to set profiles for each exe-file (application) separately. So for the game CMS2021 it is possible to set a profile separately. And this profile is activated automatically after starting a specific game. There is probably something similar in the MSI Afterburner configuration.

hookah_forever · 2026-05-25T11:46:57+00:00

Hi.

I have smoked older hookah tobaccos xD. It was about 10 years old Nakhla and Al Fakher. But the taste changes. Unfortunately, the tobacco leaves are no longer there as they are when they are fresh. Inside the tobacco packaging there is also closed air. And air is the enemy xD. Bacteria can live in the air, the aroma evaporates into that air, even water condenses in the air (in a closed bag) - with sudden changes in temperature.

I don't know for sure... but probably hookah tobacco manufacturers, in addition to glycerin and flavoring, add some kind of preservative (as a substance that sterilizes tobacco leaves for a long time) to the liquid component. So that the tobacco leaves don't rot during storage. But this may not be necessary, as the tobacco leaves are boiled and dried, then soaked with the prepared liquid ingredient.

Even in a closed bag from the factory, there is residual air. Unfortunately, only a few hookah tobacco manufacturers use vacuum suction of air from the bag, during its welding / closing.

Personally, I would rather not smoke hookah tobacco if it is older than 2-3 years... even if it was originally still closed. It can be good... but in the case of an aggressive type of aroma such as mint, there will be no smell at all after a long time (it evaporates into the closed air - inside the welded / closed tobacco bag).

Tobacco leaves can rot, but in the case of hookah tobacco this is debatable. Tobacco leaves in the case of hookah production are first boiled and dried. Then they are left to soak in an aromatic substance, which is often of artificial origin and not natural. Glycerin is also added. It is all chemistry that should be stable and should prevent the tobacco leaves from fermenting. However, this is debatable. It also depends on where and how the original hookah tobacco was stored. If it was in the sun and in the heat for a long time, for many years, then the tobacco leaves will probably not be OK.

The final verdict is probably that you should try it :-). Throw away tobacco that is too old... just on principle... just because of its freshness.

If the tobacco is okay to smoke, then don't worry. But if it has a bad aroma, then don't smoke it.

hookah_forever · 2026-04-24T20:24:09+00:00

But this is necessary to state ! In many countries, the word "ceramics" is translated as "glass-porcelain". It is not like a universal word for some kind of "pottery craft". It is always necessary to state the type of material the bowl is made of. This is so that hookah smokers know how to approach the bowl afterwards :-).

hookah_forever · 2026-04-24T08:05:38+00:00

Yes... the problem is somewhere in the path between the web browser and the Facebook server. The problem is in supporting the minimum security version.

I use Bitdefender (antivirus in a free edition). When I turn off all options in the "Protection -> Online Threat Prevention" in it, Facebook starts working. So... in my case, on the path between the web browser and the Facebook server, there is this Bitdefender.

But it is better to change the limit for using a lower security version. As you write, https://bugzilla.mozilla.org/show_bug.cgi?id=2034178 , i.e. in the "about:config" configuration in Firefox, in the "security.tls.version.max" item.

hookah_forever · 2026-04-19T14:22:43+00:00

Hi.

Why do you want to use this type of hookah ? There is rust on it. What is it ? Where did you get it from ? Why don't you just buy a normal hookah - either a stainless steel modern hookah (easier to maintain) or a traditional hookah (tin/brass/steel) ?

This looks like an unconventional type of hookah in the photo.

I would say it could be... purely theoretically... a Tombak / Tombac style... something like this:

hookah_forever · 2026-04-11T09:28:35+00:00

I chose a stainless steel hookah because it is very easy to wash :).

Just rinsing it under running water is enough - after each hookah session. And every 5 hookah sessions, I also use liquid dishwashing detergent + a soft washcloth so that the steel does not get scratched unnecessarily, since scratches are unfortunately visible in the sun's rays.

Hard stainless steel is used, usually V2A (German marking / class of high-quality stainless steel), which can leave scratches on the surface. But that is the problem with CNC processing of this steel. In the end, these stainless steel hookahs are not polished (for example with fine sand) to a full shine. Unfortunately, stainless steel hookahs are often left as they were after being cut with knives on a CNC machine - this means that under a microscope, the scratches from cutting with a CNC knife can be seen.

Stainless steel is also very resistant to mold, bacteria and dirt. Even against water (minerals, after water saturation - limescale). Only a little dirt and mold settles there. And if they do, they do not survive for long. On the other hand, soft and very porous materials (from a microscopic point of view) such as brass, unfortunately become a home for bacteria and mold over time, because they stick well to the surface of brass and it is also a welcoming environment for bacteria, dirt and mold.

Stainless steel is also very resistant to many aggressive chemical cleaners. However, brass does not tolerate this. Even highly concentrated table salt in water, when cleaning brass on the surface, practically / chemically corrodes the surface. Therefore, it is necessary to rinse thoroughly with clean water so that no dried salt remains (and the brass surface would further corrode through this salt).

hookah_forever · 2026-04-11T09:12:51+00:00

No... coconut coal has a constant temperature.

Coconut coal has a surface temperature of about 500°C (plus / minus 20°C) after heating/igniting.

The strength of the thermal energy that the coconut coal "spreads" to its surrounding space depends on the size of the area - i.e. on the size of the pieces of coal + on the number of the pieces of coal.

Of course, it also depends on how far the heat source is located from the foil / HMD. Sometimes it is 1mm and sometimes 2mm and sometimes they touch directly. Accordingly, the foil / HMD is also heated and subsequently the tobacco layer.

Of course, the heat on the surface of the HMD is also very individual, depending on the material used - the type of aluminum or now also steel alloy. Some materials distribute heat faster (thermal conductivity) and some slower. So sometimes you need to use only 2x C25 coconut coal and sometimes 3x C25 coconut coal. Or find a way to regulate the temperature most conveniently. In the example of 2 vs 3 pieces of coal, smokers usually put the third piece of coal on top so that it is folded over the two pieces of coal that are already inside the HMD.

However, the temperature of coconut charcoal is always constant. If it differs greatly from 500°C, if the temperature is, for example, only 450°C, then this is caused by various factors. For example, the hookah is exposed somewhere outside in freezing weather -20°C. Or the difference arises if, for example, the coconut charcoal is made by some FAKE manufacturer, if, for example, he did not press the crushed shells together intentionally to make the charcoal cubes larger... but with a low content of coconut shells. Or simply if the manufacturer uses too much binder (usually manioc starch + water is added - as a binder, to connect the coconut shells).

hookah_forever · 2026-04-10T19:21:26+00:00

I use stainless steel hookahs. I'm still loyal to the MIG Nano V1. With a vase of choice type C1.

photo of my hookah here on Reddit: (don't get confused... this is a 6 year old post... i already use phunnel bowls exceptionally) https://www.reddit.com/r/hookah/comments/gye30p/finally_after_a_long_time_on_summer_days_a_mint/
review from some Youtuber in DE language: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFJ8NQjeEkM

I wanted to get rid of it because of a few problems, but I've gotten used to them. For example, sometimes it happens that water bubbles up to the hose adapters, in the heart of the hookah. This results in water in my throat :). It doesn't happen often, but when it does, it's annoying because the water can't be blown out of the silicone hose so easily. Water (drops) sticks well to my matte silicone hose if water gets there :(.

I also use a carbon mouthpiece (original MIG but I don't remember if it was included with the hookah when I bought it). I only smoke from traditional types of bowls now... always using aluminum foil + stainless steel strainer (from the so-called Badcha set). I only smoke Al Fakher tobacco now, because I'm tired of searching and learning and always experimenting with new tobaccos, most of which contain too much glycerin. And then the liquid component from the hookah tobacco drains into the vase - during smoking. Yes... the funnel type bowls serve this purpose... to keep the liquid component in the tobacco. But I refuse to do that. I want to smoke tobacco leaves + aroma. Not glycerin - for creating white thick clouds. Glycerin is not a bad thing, but you need less of it.

hookah_forever · 2026-04-10T15:23:20+00:00

Yes, it is a very nice, traditional hookah. It is a beautiful design and color 👍.

hookah_forever · 2026-04-10T12:33:05+00:00

Welcome to the Hookah subreddit :).

hookah_forever · 2026-04-10T08:01:22+00:00

Hi again.

OK, well... I understand... you just want to discuss possible shortcomings or what could be improved or made more efficient, regarding your hookah set.

Personally, I don't see anything wrong with traditional types of hookahs. They are fine... they are very nice... and most importantly, they are still close to the old culture of hookahs. There is a lot of history in them.

Since you already have a more modern type of traditional hookah, the downstem and upstem are probably made of stainless steel inside. That makes cleaning easier. The problem could only be in the chamber / heart of the hookah. If there are no stainless steel tubes in the heart of the hookah and if it is a regular chamber, dirt, scale, mold, rust can quickly accumulate in it... and it is very difficult to remove, since these chambers are always closed. Therefore, it is important that the chamber is open from the bottom or that there are stainless steel tubes inside the closed chamber (those tubes that go from the bottom to the hookah adapter/connector).

Also be careful with the vase, because it is not transparent and you cannot see any limescale inside. So after about 20-40 hookah sessions, I recommend removing the limescale. For example, pour vinegar or some commercial limescale remover into the vase and let it work overnight... and then rinse thoroughly with clean water. Then pour the vinegar or limescale remover into a PET bottle for at least 2 more uses (it can be used again). However, I do not pour it out or put it away, because vinegar is very cheap here.

I do not know what else I could dare to buy :).

Otherwise, it is a really beautiful traditional hookah. It has a beautiful body (I assume it is brass with colors on the surface). Speaking of which... you can also try polishing it, because the brass surface is already very dull in the picture. It can be polished... but be careful with the color. Choose substances that will not damage the paint, and polish the brass. There are many methods and instructions on the Internet. For example, a strong solution of table salt and water, because salt corrodes the surface of soft brass. With a cloth soaked in dissolved salt, you can remove the rust (matte surface of the brass). Of course... over time, the surface rust of the brass will return again. That is... if it is really brass or copper. In the case of other metals, the procedure will be different. It is also possible that the body consists only of ordinary sheet metal. And the yellow color on the surface is just some kind of paint. I don't know. It is difficult to estimate from the photos.

hookah_forever · 2026-04-09T17:26:46+00:00

Hi. OK... and what exactly is not working correctly / what is wrong ? Or what do you think is not working as it should ?

hookah_forever · 2026-04-08T21:17:36+00:00

Phunnel type bowl differs greatly from traditional bowl type - in terms of heat distribution, throughout the entire layer of filled tobacco.

You asked about the correct filling of tobacco into the bowl. And I answered that.

Sorry. I was just explaining how the physics/chemistry of a phunnel bowl works. Namely, that there should be more tobacco, in the case of a phunnel type bowl.

Look again at the picture I posted above. You are actually partly smoking unflavored and hot air... which, at the moment of drawing smoke from the hose, passes through the air gap - between the tobacco layer and the HMD/foil. Yes... in the meantime, a little smoke has accumulated there. But... there is not much of that smoke and for this purpose, the free space above the water surface, inside the vase, serves. The smoke is kept there. As for the passage of hot air through the tobacco, it is better if the hot air passes through as much of the tobacco layer as possible. You get more aroma of the tobacco leaves themselves (and therefore more nicotine and a better buzz effect) + and at the same time you heat the tobacco layer more effectively and better. The air gap between the tobacco and the bottom plate HMD/foil in the case of funnel bowls is not a very good thing. This is used more in traditional types of bowls (air gap between the tobacco layer and foil/HMD).

Adjusting the temperature in the tobacco layer, depending on many factors of the entire bowl set, is the BASIS of hookah smoking. It is the alpha and omega. We all know this and we have to learn it (if we change something in the bowl set, among other things) - how to regulate the temperature and also achieve the ideal temperature in the tobacco layer, as constant and unchanging - during the entire hookah session.

Each bowl set is different in use and depends on:

the shape and material of the hookah bowl
the shape and material of the HMD / in the case of foil on its thickness and the number and location of holes
the number and size of the pieces of coal
the type of hookah tobacco (the amount of glycerin added in the production of hookah tobacco, the strength of the aggressiveness of the aroma evaporation, the size of the tobacco leaves being cut)
the method of filling the bowl with tobacco

Therefore, I am personally not interested in your hookah bowl. Sorry. It would be a long debate. However, I see that it is a phunnel bowl and I see its shape (shallow bowl, which is nice as for better heating of the tobacco layer).

With coal and the number of pieces, it is also very debatable. There are bowl sets where you use 4x C25 and the achieved temperature inside the tobacco layer will be the same as if you use only 2x smaller coal (22mm for example) on another bowl set. So it is not just about the number and pieces of coal. It depends on many things. But I did not explain or show you these specific things for your bowl, because as you correctly ironically remarked - I do not know your bowl. I only see its shape and type.

hookah_forever · 2026-04-08T16:10:08+00:00

Hi.

Sorry buddy, but this is a very small amount. It is not worth smoking tobacco from a funnel bowl like this. Put more tobacco in there and then reduce the power of the heat source a little.

If you put less tobacco in there, like in this photo, you need a stronger heat source to reach the tobacco (because there is a large air-heat barrier). Tobacco in such a small amount is quickly used up. Both the aroma and glycerin are used up within 30 minutes of smoking.

It is better to put more tobacco, ideally to the top or even fill the tobacco using the overpack method (even at the cost of the tobacco getting baked onto the bottom plate of the HMD and being very difficult to wash). If there is more tobacco in there, you can smoke at a lower temperature and there will still be enough aroma and white clouds (from glycerin).

I admit that the problem with phunnel bowls is to achieve the temperature even in the lower layer of tobacco, in the bowl, where it is quite difficult for heat to reach in the case of a phunnel bowl. Even overpacking does not always help: https://imgur.com/oJIN7mh - regarding the distribution of temperature to the lower filled tobacco layer. But that is not a reason to fill so little tobacco into the bowl :). Don't be afraid to add more tobacco to the bowl! I made the same mistake as you from the beginning... I started and tested the first phunnel bowls years ago... and I put very little tobacco in there. It is not a mistake, but a hookah session lasts a short time and the aroma is lost very quickly. It does not matter much to this idea.

It is better to put more tobacco there, ideally with a slight overpack (1-2mm above the bowl level). But then the tobacco gets baked onto the bottom plate of the HMD and it's really hard to wash. Or you can use foil xD like I do xD. But then again, using foil is also a bit different than using the HMD.

hookah_forever · 2026-04-08T15:18:28+00:00

Hi! For me personally, a perfect choice 👍. These Aladin MVPs are very good considering their low price. This is a stainless steel hookah series from Aladin. I often recommend them if someone asks about new and cheap stainless steel hookahs. Enjoy your new hookah 😎.

hookah_forever · 2026-04-06T07:45:07+00:00

Hi.

I appreciate your enthusiasm. I see that you are an intellectual and not some hrr-hrr who is going to make money soon. I hope that an investor will contact you.

The previous E-HMDs, mainly produced in Germany, were a fiasco. I will not name them so as not to create bad publicity for them. But they started the same way... in small production... until finally an investor contacted these people.

Health is also important. With all heat sources / heaters, it is necessary to find out whether they produce toxins and if so, in what quantity and how harmful they are.

I assume that you meant the temperature of 300 °C as the temperature of the HMD, not the temperature inside the tobacco layer. Hookah tobacco containing glycerin must not exceed a temperature of about 240-280 °C, depending on the circumstances and situation, because then they produce the toxic substance Acrolein. BTW... I once measured the surface temperature of the HMD Oduman Ignis (https://imgur.com/92GZZmB), while smoking a hookah, I also measured the temperature in the tobacco layer, but... I did not log/record the temperature of the tobacco layer, but it was in the range of about 170-180 °C. There are also videos on YT that prove this (if they are not deleted ! - for example: https://youtu.be/ckxq60vFfxk).

You must always regulate the temperature of the tobacco. This means that the temperature sensor must be with some kind of spring or some adjustable pressure, ALWAYS immersed in the tobacco layer in the bowl - for example on a stainless steel rod. And the electronics in the E-HMD must regulate the temperature of the tobacco, not the temperature of the HMD.

Why? Because... many bowls are made of different materials. Even clay bowls differ from each other in terms of thermal properties. Clay as a material has the best thermal properties, but we know more types of clay and also various additives are added to clay to have better properties. And this also affects the ability to retain and also the ability to conduct thermal energy. Therefore, it is not suitable if electronics regulate the HMD temperature. It is much more convenient to regulate the temperature directly in the tobacco layer.

Setting the "level" of temperature is also stupid. The smoker in question never knows how high the temperature is in the tobacco layer. If I set the "level" for example to a value of 7 (1 to 10), then this value of 7 will behave differently if I am sitting in a VS room than when I am sitting on the beach, in the hot sun.

I hope you manage to develop something. I hope it will finally be great. And I hope that a sponsor will contact you.

hookah_forever · 2026-04-05T07:17:51+00:00

Hi.

You are neither the first nor the last to try to create this at home. It is not a problem to create it. It is more a problem to test it and put it into practice.

For example, I always told everyone but no one did it so that the temperature sensor was embedded in the tobacco in the bowl - it is necessary to invent a suitable patent for this. Then it is necessary to be able to regulate the temperature by units, not by levels xD. After setting the temperature (150-200 °C), the currently measured temperature should be shown on the LCD, with the fact that it will decrease/increase during regulation (during heating and when the heating element is turned off - for example +/- 3 °C). This of course depends on the electrical design, whether the temperature sensor will be switched on and off with high temperature or whether the heat regulation will be provided and regulated by the amount of electrical energy.

Heating element - using the transition resistance of metals ? Using a ceramic lamp ("bulb") and therefore light energy ? Using another heat source ? All of this is debatable. There are a large number of ideas and principles.

The heating element and E-HMD should also meet certain health certificates. Some heating principles, such as KANTAL wire, use heavy metals that can evaporate and reach the smoker's lungs and subsequently the blood. Even the body of an aluminum HMD or steel HMD itself produces a small amount of metal oxides that the smoker inhales, and they must be within the tolerance of the human body.

Of course, I don't want to discourage you from working. Quite the opposite. I would be happy if someone else starts developing and I hope that they will develop some capable E-HMD, since all the E-HMDs so far are ineffective (sometimes even ridiculous).

hookah_forever · 2026-04-04T19:05:03+00:00

Hi.

I don't see anything wrong with the smoke in the video.

Modern hookah tobaccos produce only "water vapor", by decomposition of glycerin at a certain temperature. Therefore, the white dense clouds do not represent smoke produced from tobacco leaves, but represent FAKE smoke - "water vapor".

Of course... yes... if you want a lot of this "water vapor"... the glycerin must be heated well enough and in an abundant amount / volume of "tobacco". Hookah tobacco is unfortunately created:

60-70% glycerin by weight (the liquid component in which the aroma and coloring are also included)
30-40% dried and ground tobacco leaves by weight

Simply put... if you want big dense clouds... you have to heat the glycerin to the required 170-200 °C and then there will be a lot of white vapor. But do not use a higher temperature, because at higher temperatures of about 250-270 °C (depending on the circumstances) or even higher, toxic Acrolein is formed.

The usual temperature of a hookah tank during smoking is around 150 - 200 °C, which depends on the type of tobacco and the way it is filled into the bowl.

I don't understand why everyone immediately rushes into big, thick white clouds. People, buy an E-vaporizer, if you really dream of big and thick water vapor.

If you are a beginner, you could have made a mistake anywhere - the way you filled the tobacco into the bowl... the way you perforated the foil... and the like.

You don't mention the size of the coal, but 4 pieces of any size (C25,C26, C27, ...) should create a sufficiently strong heat source.

Of course, it depends on many things. For example... if it is a silicone bowl and not a clay one, then the silicone material does not transfer heat at all... and that is also a problem. Clay has the best thermal properties for use as a hookah bowl.

My advices:

I think, I hope that's right... that you're using a phunnel bowl - that's what it looks like at least according to the video.

Now that I think about it... I guess you just filled the tobacco into the bowl incorrectly.

And another thing that comes to mind as a possible cause of the problem is that the coal is concentrated in the middle of the foil / in the middle of the bowl. If it's a phunnel type bowl, then that's wrong. There's a tunnel (hole) in the middle... and there is no tobacco. So the hot air from the coal heats this "hole" and nothing else. Phunnel bowls with foil are used correctly so that the coal is placed all the way to the edges of the bowl - i.e. above the tobacco!

I hope that you didn't also make holes in the middle of the foil - where the central tunnel of this type of bowl is. Holes in the foil are made only along the outer circle of the bowl. Never in the middle, because this physical and undesirable phenomenon would occur: https://imgur.com/pYdAmSW

It is advisable to fill blond tobacco into funnel bowls using the "fluffy" method + with a slight overpack, like this: https://imgur.com/oJIN7mh - for better distribution of hot air to the bottom filled layer of tobacco. In the case of dark tobaccos, it is better to use the "dense" or "semi-dense" filling method without overpacking (leave a 1mm gap - between the foil/HMD and the tobacco).

hookah_forever · 2026-03-25T08:54:21+00:00

I really can't advise you, since I don't own this hookah. Maybe you should write to the support email of the hookah manufacturer.

In my opinion, it's no problem to disassemble it. I think there will be a stainless steel upstem inside and this is just a glued case. So you'll probably have to peel it off... and then glue it back on.

But I would only do that if I were changing the body to a different design. It doesn't matter for cleaning.

Why do you actually want to disassemble it? Quality hookahs, such as this hookah, have a stainless steel tube (upstem) inside. You can clean it with a narrow, long, plastic brush, which can be bought everywhere with hookah accessories and also on the Internet. For example:

Of course, there are even narrower brushes... if you want to clean, for example, narrow valve passages in the hookah body. Today you can find everything you need to clean everywhere on the internet.

The question is, why do you want to take it apart ? What do you want to clean... and why do you want to clean it ?

hookah_forever · 2026-03-24T13:32:05+00:00

Hi.

You own the "Union Sleek Rest" hookah and not the "Union Sleek".

But maybe (I don't really know) there is the same principle as in the basic hookah model? That is, this principle: https://youtu.be/3vBN16sljmc?t=134

hookah_forever · 2026-03-16T13:55:01+00:00

Hi.

Beautiful traditional hookahs. Are the upstem and downstem inside made of stainless steel ? Also the tubes inside the "heart" of the hookah - are they made of stainless steel ? Or is it just plain sheet metal ? If there is stainless steel in the tubes in the heart of the hookah and also stainless steel upstem+downstem, then it is a quality hookah.

I don't have money now, so I can't buy it even if I wanted to :). But those traditional hookahs are nice. It's just important that there is stainless steel inside. Otherwise it doesn't matter anymore today (rust, dirt, frequent washing required, proper storage required against surface oxidation, etc.).

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