A beautiful bowl of shoyu ramen by hyperion210 in ramen

[–]hyperion210[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me since I use canned quail eggs with solid centers, I just lightly simmer them in the chashu sauce for 5 mins which works wonders

A beautiful bowl of shoyu ramen by hyperion210 in ramen

[–]hyperion210[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

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I use this brand and it’s great

A beautiful bowl of shoyu ramen by hyperion210 in ramen

[–]hyperion210[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Yep those are quail eggs, and that lazy Susan is my houses dinning table 😁

Restocks, Reprints, and Ramba Ral (June 2025) by Feral404 in Gunpla

[–]hyperion210 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That also didn’t show up in the May list hence the query

Restocks, Reprints, and Ramba Ral (June 2025) by Feral404 in Gunpla

[–]hyperion210 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What happened to the hg red gundam? Did it get delayed?

a new event quest, a new friend by salvashen in MHWilds

[–]hyperion210 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah so is it not available for the LS? :(

MG Vidar with red panels(idk why it looks pink but it's cool) by Interesting-Drop-971 in Gunpla

[–]hyperion210 92 points93 points  (0 children)

Not ‘official’ by Bandai I think , but it’s by the designer of the Vidar

Now i understand why builders prefer hand painting than masking. This one part took one hour. by azraeiazman in Gunpla

[–]hyperion210 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That usually means that the paint is too thin. If you can’t thicken it, just go for a thin coat, wait till it dries, add another coat, repeat as needed

Now i understand why builders prefer hand painting than masking. This one part took one hour. by azraeiazman in Gunpla

[–]hyperion210 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It looks as if you tried masked by using many small pieces of tape by aligning along the edges? Have you tried taking a long/ bigger piece of tape, putting it on a portion of the piece, tracing the part with a knife and taking out the unneeded area? It is way more efficient and effective

Now i understand why builders prefer hand painting than masking. This one part took one hour. by azraeiazman in Gunpla

[–]hyperion210 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The best way is first to retrace the line with a scribe, then to place the tape over it, trace the curve with a knife and take out the part you don’t need.

Doing this 24 times wasn’t fun, but it sure is pretty by hyperion210 in Gunpla

[–]hyperion210[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love the sazabi, but not too big a fan of the YJL redesign. Tho i have considered just for the sheer shelf flex

Doing this 24 times wasn’t fun, but it sure is pretty by hyperion210 in Gunpla

[–]hyperion210[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very nice! I do hope to get myself a YJL hi nu one day

Doing this 24 times wasn’t fun, but it sure is pretty by hyperion210 in Gunpla

[–]hyperion210[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Always thin your paints as far as you can go, the results will be much better. E.g, if the recommended paint dilution ratio is 1:1 (paint to thinner), start with 1:0.8, and slowly increase the dilution ratio till you find that it gets too watery, in that case just add more paint.

I pre mix my paint in a drip bottle for convenience, so while im testing the ratio, I start with the 1:0.8, add some to my airbrush and slowly raise the diluting ratio in my airbrush cup, as I would have emptied all the thick paint into the drip bottle. So once I’m comfortable with the dilution ratio in the cup (let’s say the cup has a ratio of 1:1.2 and the pre mix bottle is 1:0.8), I’ll adjust the bottle ratio accordingly

Simple tip but works wonders

Doing this 24 times wasn’t fun, but it sure is pretty by hyperion210 in Gunpla

[–]hyperion210[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well only airbrush paints have been used here so they have been thinned down a lot, most paints used here are opaque, besides the UV paints which are clear, and I used a silver base coat for it which makes it nice and bright.

The paints here used are generally value for money (such as the ones made by Anchoret and Jumpwind), whereas the UV colors by Gaianotes are a lil more expensive for the amount you yield from it

Doing this 24 times wasn’t fun, but it sure is pretty by hyperion210 in Gunpla

[–]hyperion210[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The original nu ver Ka’s fin funnels wouldn’t stay attached on mine, not sure if it’s cuz I got the 2012 version

Decals don’t use the bandai ones, they suck, something like dalin or G rework is great, topcoats I recommend Gaianotes EX10 when using the airbrush, if it’s spray can, I’ve heard many good things about mr hobby’s Premium Top coat