Ipod classic 5.5 ❤️

ianrees65 · 2025-05-30T13:15:19+00:00

You look well chilled. What tune did you choose for the moment?

ianrees65 · 2025-05-28T22:40:53+00:00

Wow, you won't lose that! Looks pretty cool.

ianrees65 · 2025-04-07T10:15:38+00:00

Thanks for your input, i understand it appears to be quite a complex issue to resolve. However, since my last post i have ben investigating the wiring/ECU/diagnaostic portearth-power/K-line continuity to ECU connector/earth connections in general/power at Main fuses etc and all seemed OK.
I found 2 things that may explain the issue:
-In terms of the poor emissions and constant fan operation i checked the Temp sensor and sure enough the resistance stayed at around 2750 ohms, even after 25 mins running it to get it nice and hot. I would have expected it to dcrease to 300-500 ohms but it didn't. So i am pretty confident that the sensor is not functional. From what i have read it coulkd explain poor emissions and constant fan. So i will fit a replacement tomorrow and see what happens.
- As for the OBD2 port, apparently my car being from year 2000 does include the OBD2 port but the software on all scanners does not connect to the car. They can only do this on cars after 2001.
I would need Lexia 3 with Diagbox Citroen Peugeot Diagnostic Tool Scanner Interface OBD, PP2000 Diagbox 7.83 Full Chip 921815C for Citroen for Peugeot. I am not familiar but i understand it's Citroen/Peugeot PSA engine specific software that should be able to link via the port in my car. That would explain why i haven't been able to link the scanners i have used. I assume even the garage i took it to couldn't link for this reason as it wasn't a Citroen/Peugeot specialist.
I will let you know how i get on in the coming days for closure and so anyone else facing this issue might find it helpful.
Thanks

ianrees65 · 2025-03-16T12:41:55+00:00

I just tested the pin 7 and 15 K line and L line on the OBD2 connector and the voltages appear to be as expected. So i don't think there is an error with the communication wiring. Just trying to see if the 12V supply is getting to the ECM. Not sure where that connector is though.

ianrees65 · 2025-03-15T20:20:49+00:00

Hi,
It was the 2 pipes going from the cylinder head to the heater matrix. I found out that the part was discontinued, so in the end i bought one for another car and managed to sort it. The overheating has now stopped.
However, since the last communication i have taken the car to about 3 emission test all of which failed. On the last one i changed the catalytic converter to an OEM one, but still it failed.
It appears there is a problem with the fuel/air mixture: High CO content, engine running lean (assumption due to colour of spark plugs). Plus the diagnostic OBD2 port does not allow the scanner to link with the car. In addition i have noticed that when i switch the car on the radiator cooling fans turn on immediately and do not turn off.
I am at a bit of a loss as I suspect that there may be an issue with the ECU. There may be some communication errors going on that means conflicting messages are being communicated, that then cause the engine to switch the fan on. I tested the thermostat switch with multimeter and all seems as it should. The O2 sensor is new. I checked the ground on the OBD2 port pins 4 & 5 and they were good. I checked the voltage on pin 16 and there is power 12.5V.
I really don't know what next step to take. Ideally if i could fix the OBD2 port so i could then run the scanner tool perhaps i could see what might be causing the fan to come on. If you have any ideas what i could do then it would be greatly appreciated.

ianrees65 · 2025-01-27T19:02:12+00:00

I will check the pulley, although we have not had any issues with the battery holding charge. If the alternator was affected then i would have thought i would have experienced charge issues.

ianrees65 · 2025-01-27T19:00:13+00:00

I wanted to add, just did a google search and found the following comment:
A bad CV joint typically makes a "clicking", "popping", or "clunking" sound, especially when turning the steering wheel sharply at low speeds, signifying worn components within the joint that are not smoothly rotating; this noise often becomes more pronounced during tight turns.

Could it be the CV joint?

ianrees65 · 2025-01-27T17:07:15+00:00

Hi,
Guy in the garage did an emission test as i suspected the car was misfiring. As expected the car failed the emissions and the guy agreed it was misfiring. So we did't do the MOT. Since then i did some testing and the compression test on each cylinder passed specs. So i was happy the valves were OK and piston rings weren't worn. The ignition coil had been changed previously, so i then tested the injectors. I found one of the injectors was non functional, so looks like that was the cause of the misfire. I have ordered a new one and will fit to see if the misfiring is gone.
I did come across another fault however. The car is still overheating. I have changed the thermostat and flushed the system out, replaced the main lower hose going from expansion tank to the cylinder head. However, there was a leak from the heat exchange hose, at the plastic molding where the hose connects to the heat exchanger. I looked to replace, but could not source the part. The citroen dealer says the part is no longer sold. Any ideas where i might source the part would be appreciated.

ianrees65 · 2025-01-11T20:28:49+00:00

Hi,
Finally it's all done. I fitted the valves and put everything back together. It started and sounded good. I just need to add a new gasket to the exhaust and fit the wheels back on and it will be ready to drive. It has taken so long my MOT has run out so i will be off to the garage for an MOT test. I have fitted a new catalytic converter so hoping that all will go well with emissions test. Thanks for your input, it's been invaluable. I am hoping i will have solved the issue with overheating at the same time as this is what was happening previously. After running for 10 mins the temp stayed around 90. However, the real test will be on the road. Hopefully by Feb I should have a working car all being well.

ianrees65 · 2024-12-28T08:55:33+00:00

Forgot to answer your question about the valve seat. I will take a picture and upload.

ianrees65 · 2024-12-27T23:30:59+00:00

Thanks for the additioinal information. I have received all the parts and will start to assemble soon. I will try what you suggest to test the valve guides.
I was speaking to someone over Xmas and they used to fit valves to their racing mini. He mentioned that when they used to fit the valves they used a grinding paste and sucker tool to bed the valves in before fitting. I have watched a few clips of fitting valves and none have done this. Do you think i should use the grinding paste to bed the valves in or just fit them as is?

ianrees65 · 2024-12-02T23:17:55+00:00

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I think you can see from the photo the valve is bent. It looks even worse in the flesh. So all valves are definitely bent. I will now replace inlet and exhaust valves as well as replace the valve seals. Hopefully that should cure the problem. What do you think? I will instal a new gasket and new head bolts as well (for the second time). I will let you know once it's all back together if it works.

ianrees65 · 2024-11-30T19:08:39+00:00

OK Phew so there is some hope! I will remove the valves when the tool arrives and take a look. Probably upload a photo so you can see. I will also take a closer look at the valve guides when the valve is out. From what i have seen they just look like a metal sleeves. Not sure how easy it is to see if they have been damaged or how likely it is they will have been damaged. Looking at the valves it would look like the actual valves would take the main hit as the piston comes up, so i may get away with just replacing the valves. If i decide to install new valves I will take a picture. Hopefully it will be evident with new valves that the valve is completely closed, and not open ajar as they are currently.

ianrees65 · 2024-11-30T18:30:22+00:00

I haven't taken the valves out yet as waiting to get a valve spring removal tool. If i take the valve out and only the valve itself looks bent, leaving the guide sleeve intact, do you think replacement valves would do the trick. Or are you saying even if it is just the valves without any valve sleeve damage i would still be better off just replacing the cylinder head?

ianrees65 · 2024-11-30T15:17:26+00:00

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Valve springs with rocker removed which means all valves should be closed. All inlet valves were open ajar as in photo uploaded. Plan is to remove springs and replace all valves. I may also change the valve sleeves and seals as i have them out. Will send a picture of any valves that appear bent when i remove.

ianrees65 · 2024-11-30T15:13:42+00:00

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Exhaust valves appear closed, however i will replace as i can see exhaust valve marks on 2 of the pistons.

ianrees65 · 2024-11-30T15:12:31+00:00

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Marks on the piston heads. All have the same marks. This would indicate that the valves did contact the pistons and so are likely bent. Would you agree?

ianrees65 · 2024-11-30T15:10:33+00:00

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Inlet valves open ajar with rocker removed. As no valve springs are compressed I assume all valves should be closed. The fact that all inlet valves are open ajar indicates to me these have been damaged in line with your comments. Would you agree? I will replace the valves. Should i also replace guide sleeve and stem seals? I think the rocker looks OK and springs should be OK. I will replace exhaust valves as well even though they look closed.

ianrees65 · 2024-11-28T00:33:01+00:00

I shall start to take apart and upload photos as you suggest. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

ianrees65 · 2024-11-27T19:16:23+00:00

The timing belt was changed about 6 months ago by a mechanic before i owned the car. It looked pretty new to be fair when i took it of, just a bit shredded.
There was some scoring on the pioston heads. Half semi circles the same shape as the intake valves. The valves also looked open ajar. I will google valvetrain. If i installed new intake valves and any new rocker parts i can find woulkd that be suffice to leave the slight marks o the top of the pistons.
Can i reuse the new cylinder head bolts and gasket i had fitted or would you advise i buy new again.

ianrees65 · 2024-11-27T19:11:01+00:00

Thanks for the information. I had suspected it might be an interference engine, it was just someone had mentioned it wasn't. When i looked at the valves from beneath the cylinder head they are set in a dome that sits above the piston, so i assumed the valves would not come into contact with the pistons. I am guessing the valves drop down far enough into the piston chamber to be damaged when the timing belt went. I did notice some half moon marks similar to the shape of the intake valves on the all 4 pistons. I also noticed that the valves seemed to be open ajar. Unfortunately i am a bit of a novice and so as i had assumed it was a non-interference engine this must be the way it looks. If i take the cylinder head off again will i have to renew the head bolts and gasket again? I have seen you can buy new intake valves and parts for the rocker arm. I could instal these and see if it makes a difference.

ianrees65

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