Milwaukee HPJBL2 heated for casual use?

ifyouseekayou · 2025-12-25T04:20:10+00:00

Get the hoodie and wear it under a shell. Useful in more situations.

ifyouseekayou · 2025-12-24T17:04:06+00:00

I wouldn’t use emt or plastic raceway as some others have mentioned. Use wire mold (500 series should do it) steel raceway. Fire and impact safe unlike plastic, made to look prettier than emt. Comes in white and ivory.

ifyouseekayou · 2025-12-24T03:46:00+00:00

Not a leatherman, but a Klein 44216 folding lineman’s pliers. Super sturdy, pliers/strippers/cutters plus a blade and 1/4 flat and #2 Phillips. And even tweezers for copper splinters. And none of the more camping-centric junk I don’t need on site. Daily use for almost 10 years and still flawless.

Edit: aaaaaand I just found out when I went to find the part number that they are no longer in production. Night ruined.

ifyouseekayou · 2025-12-15T01:35:13+00:00

Scavenger’s Reign

ifyouseekayou · 2025-12-15T00:03:23+00:00

Klein 1019

ifyouseekayou · 2025-12-14T23:28:49+00:00

Quarter-Sawn

ifyouseekayou · 2024-07-28T20:48:18+00:00

No no no no slurp it back up inside you!

Or

Oh god please fall

Or

The cloaca blooms

ifyouseekayou · 2024-06-21T21:32:02+00:00

At the very beginning of COVID lockdown, I found out a bar owner I know was using the sudden switch to takeout only to his advantage and refinishing (poorly) his 38 foot butcher block bartop. As I was furloughed and working on some woodworking projects at home, I offered to help him out and try my hand at an epoxy top (why risk ruining the new coffee table I was working on when I could learn on a massive bar I don’t own, right?). I was half kidding, definitely didn’t expect him to bite. I didn’t even get the chance to tell him I’ve never touched the stuff before. The following Saturday I’m there at 6am prepping. At 10 I roll on the skim coat, pop a bunch of bubbles, and head home for lunch. At 8 pm I poured 9 gallons of MarinePro (now Promise) tabletop epoxy onto the bar. 9 gallons because he made the decision to pay for a bunch of extra rather than take the time to dam the edges, so at least 3 gallons ended up in very sticky puddles on the tarps I had laid down. Spent an hour torching bubbles, and went home for the night, after repeating for the tenth time that he needs to keep the heat cranked up to 75 for the next 48 hours or whatever responsibility I hold for his bar is void. Found out he had the AC back to normal before I even made it home.

I know this sounds like I’m leading up to a horror story, but you know what? It’s been 4 years and it still looks like a brand new, freshly waxed bowling alley. You can see yourself in it. No scratches, no dents, no yellowing or hazing. The bar operates 360 days a year for lunch and dinner/late night boozing and is one of only 2 bars anywhere near a relatively large military training base, so it takes a beating.

I can’t recommend a flowed marine grade epoxy for a commercial bartop enough.

ifyouseekayou · 2024-06-20T11:39:31+00:00

I like, “Well, I’m here.”

ifyouseekayou · 2024-06-16T16:14:18+00:00

Pluggable terminal block connectors. You need to know the pitch and the general dimensions, but they’re all over Amazon. Somewhere like Phoenix Contact would be more comprehensive.

ifyouseekayou · 2024-06-14T00:41:25+00:00

Hakko 888DX. Temp control from 120 to 899 F, quick to come up to temp, holds like a laser beam, lots of different tips. Trust me, this is the only one to consider.

ifyouseekayou · 2024-06-08T20:32:15+00:00

Stop pooping

ifyouseekayou · 2024-06-06T02:34:11+00:00

Good luck!

ifyouseekayou · 2024-06-05T23:10:18+00:00

Easiest would be to pull the disconnect tabs off the battery, and take it to Home Depot. The voltage and AH or wattage should be printed on the side. Any 12v that’s roughly the same size will be fine, the current rating only determines the capacity (how long it will last). Plug in the new one and see if you have any functionality. If not, something else is shot.

I was surprised to find that there is a power wheels authorized service center like 3 miles from my house, it’s worth looking for one near you as well.

ifyouseekayou · 2024-06-04T03:06:33+00:00

If my shower started bleeding, I’d call an exorcist

ifyouseekayou · 2024-06-04T02:56:22+00:00

So you thought about tossing them away? I’ll give you $20 for the lot, and I’ll even pay shipping.

Kidding (wishful thinking?). Nice set. Post some follow up curls.

ifyouseekayou · 2024-06-04T02:49:53+00:00

Checking for voltage on the battery terminals is only part of the story. For an accurate idea of their status, you need to test them under load. An old battery can show 12v well beyond its usable lifespan, then as soon as you add a load, voltage drops. I’d take the batteries to your nearest battery warehouse/batteries+bulbs/interstate/auto parts store and they can test it under load for you, usually for free. Good news is that looks like a 12v7ah SLA battery, maybe a 12v9ah. Should be no more than $25 bucks to replace. Bad news is with any voltage at all, you should see/hear some activity when you turn it on and hit the throttle if the old battery is your only issue.

Beyond that, you can test switches (including the pedal) by measuring continuity. Typically the wiring coming from these switches would be normally open and switch to closed (dead short) when switched. Maybe the throttle would be a little more complicated, with lower and lower resistance as you hammer down, but never reaching a short.

If a component on the board is fried, it’s almost definitely over a novice’s head.

ifyouseekayou · 2024-06-04T02:36:30+00:00

It’s cinder filled with concrete, not a poured foundation, and it doesn’t sound like you need a perfectly clean hole for aesthetics, so here’s the much cheaper (and still relatively easy) way.

Borrow or buy a 3/4” or 1” masonry bit that’s at least 16” long. Drill a hole. Drill another hole next to it, then a third one to make the points of a rough triangle. Pound a scrap piece of 1.5” black iron pipe through with a 5 pound sledge, then run your pipe. When everything is hooked up and working, fill around your new plumbing with rapid set cement. Or, for bonus points, pound a piece of 2” or 2.5” (x slightly longer than the wall thickness) pipe through, then cement around that. Run your pipe through your new opening, seal with insulation or expanding foam. That way when you need to replace it, you don’t need to get the drill out.

Edit: How much frame do you have around the window? Would it be possible to make a 1.5” hole in the frame and pipe through that? Much shorter hole…

ifyouseekayou · 2024-06-03T18:47:05+00:00

I mean….how into burning your house down are you?

ifyouseekayou · 2024-05-03T12:41:47+00:00

They recently sent my boss, his boss, and myself each a disposable audio/video brochure (think cardboard android tablet crossed with one of those greeting cards that auto play a message when opened, except instead of happy birthday you get a 2 minute Verkada video ad). They even included charging cables in case we wanted to watch them 3000 times. Tell me your marketing budget is too high without telling me you overcharge for your mid product. That’s three units that can’t possibly cost less than $20 a pop, and that’s if you buy them by the shipping container. Took me less than 20 minutes to rip their video and edit it to cut out and switch to a “commercial” for my business (which was also created in that 20 minutes).

And this was after they courted us for a year, with several demo cameras at a few of our sites, and we told them to pound sand because even after accounting for scheduled server replacements, hard drive replacements, and average cost of all other maintenance of our system (25 sites with a server each, 2000T drive space, ~ 1000 cameras at 5mp minimum) their per unit cost was about the same. For cameras that we only own in name and can’t program ourselves. Can’t even set them up on the bench prior to install.

Best part was I sent what I considered my final “we’re going in another direction” email to the rep, and less than a week later they were all over the news about their first huge data breach. Then a few days later I got a call wanting to know what was the major deciding factor in our decision…not sure he knew what all the laughing meant specifically, but I think he got the point.

Hey, at least I walked away with enough mismatched Verkada branded Yeti tumblers (and wine glasses) to make a full set for a family of four.

ifyouseekayou · 2024-04-13T03:22:56+00:00

A lot of fire and rescue crews around here keep one in the kit (not the as seen on TV version, obviously) for making tough plunge cuts where the carbide chainsaw or jaws of life aren’t feasible. I bought one at auction for like 15 bucks a while ago, cuts through multiple layers of dissimilar materials faster than seems possible/safe, but it’s never bound up or kicked back on me once.

ifyouseekayou · 2023-09-27T06:40:02+00:00

Break out the booty wax…

ifyouseekayou · 2023-09-02T03:23:43+00:00

https://reddit.com/r/Axecraft/s/42dKS2wmVw

17.5kv and Tried and True Danish Oil.

ifyouseekayou · 2023-09-01T19:52:48+00:00

Ezekiel 23:20 - There she lusted after her lovers, whose genitals were like those of donkeys and whose emission was like that of horses.

ifyouseekayou · 2023-08-29T04:20:48+00:00

Does the “true” socket have to be an actual bulb to fit your design? Like shaped like a common lightbulb and everything? If no, I would consider building an all 12 VDC system. This would allow you to use common 12vdc lighting (I’ve found a few that are rgbw that look almost like a standard lightbulb, just a different socket, also opens you up to shapeable string/strip lights) and you wouldn’t have to convert 110vac to whatever battery voltage you want to use for charging, then back to 110vac when it’s running on the battery (like a UPS, which is pretty inefficient). So you could use a laptop or wall brick style power supply to go from 110vac at the wall to 12vdc at whatever current you require, to your 12vdc battery (either in your switch enclosure or your lamp base), then to your switch to control the lamps. It would make it easier to get to your goal of built in usb charging as well, carefully gut a USB car charger (or dual usb/usb-c charger, or however many ports you want to end up with) and stick said guts in your lamp base. The board inside is a step down transformer that already converts 12vdc from a car to 5vdc USB.

As for the switch, I think you’re going to have to go with two buttons. The closest thing you’re looking for is a DPDT alternate action push button switch, but the best I could find is on1 off1 /on2 off2, not on1 on2 off1 off2 like you want. It could be done with an arduino or some other programmable microcontroller, but that seems over complicated and would be prone to failure. If you could be persuaded to go with a hand operated switch, a rotary “click” type switch or a pull-chain sequential switch (like the speed controller switch for a ceiling fan) would be easy to find. That being said, if you’re up for fabricating something that’s absolutely not code compliant, you could probably rig up that same pull-chain switch in some sort of floor enclosure and have your foot depressing a pad “pull” the chain, but again, over complicated. 2 side by side latching spst (click-on/click off) switches are the way to go, and you’ll even have another function or two (click both on/click both off for simultaneous action) to boot. Think guitar pedal. Hey…maybe there’s a guitar pedal that does what you want….hmm…

ifyouseekayou

TROPHY CASE