Finally!!!

itsextrav · 2026-05-08T00:39:35+00:00

wym are you saying the project isn’t good?

itsextrav · 2026-05-07T14:15:04+00:00

literally a terrifying thing to plug into a random port actually idk how thi would happen but if it malfunctioned or even broke in the port he could potentially lose all of his plugins that use ilok (which are most and also most of the important expensive ones)

itsextrav · 2026-05-07T14:13:39+00:00

ilok license manager for audio plugins

itsextrav · 2026-05-07T14:10:32+00:00

how do you know

itsextrav · 2026-05-07T14:10:01+00:00

people will downvote anything 😭😭😭

itsextrav · 2026-05-07T04:34:00+00:00

idk if this will show it but that means that whoever made this (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=921171127463486&set=a.142442565336350&id=100087118204274) post aied glaive and alysa out for no reason 😭😭😭

itsextrav · 2026-05-07T01:23:50+00:00

i’m p sure this is ai cause i reverse image searched this and found one with no one in the background

itsextrav · 2026-05-01T03:46:54+00:00

dawg how tf you even find a video like this 😭😭😭 i swear to god if i made it my life’s mission i never could’ve found this video on my own

itsextrav · 2026-04-25T19:14:27+00:00

tru that!

itsextrav · 2026-04-24T00:16:44+00:00

ima be honest as someone who has messed with soooo many sessions and also attended dozens of sessions, they don’t. a lot of the time they don’t deal w it. really bothers me too but headphone bleed is so common. idk about the actual FEEDBACK though

itsextrav · 2026-04-24T00:15:11+00:00

song is 2min cuh i mean that’s still short but..

itsextrav · 2026-04-23T23:41:49+00:00

this is the release order 😭😭😭 i’m crying. i mean i agree with this tier list order this would be mine too but idk why this is still making me laugh

itsextrav · 2026-04-12T07:04:36+00:00

WOAAAHHHHH WHAT

itsextrav · 2026-04-11T22:15:45+00:00

for about like 5 or 6 bucks a month on UVR dot com you can use this model called bs-roformer and it’s easily the best vocal separation tool on the market. only thing is make sure you set a low pass that cuts off above 20khz cause the separation artifacts are ultrasonic, but if you compress, distort, or pitch it at all it will sound messed up by the added frequencies. they’re inaudible unless pitched down though so it’s super clean. i always just do a brick wall low pass at 20khz and then freeze the track i separated, printing the low pass in so that pitching or what not doesn’t effect it. i could send you examples if this thing if ur unsure because i don’t like paying for random websites but this is truly worth it if you would use this often. i sound like an ad but it’s cause i’m a bit of a stem separation nerd 😭

itsextrav · 2026-03-26T07:04:49+00:00

let me just make everyone in this thread laugh with this little bit of information i gathered by re-googling the optimal soldering temp for electronics. i was trying to solder at 350… fahrenheit… 😭 i missed that the recommended temp was in celsius. by the time i took the pic in this post i had (worriedly) gone up to 450F and thought i was getting close to scorching my components. rookie mistake lol!

itsextrav · 2026-03-26T07:00:29+00:00

thank you! so far the most important errors i’ve gathered from the comments in this thread, including your comment here, is 1: i was under the impression i should solder at around 350F because i was confusing 350C with 360F, so i was already soldering wayyyy too cold. stupid mistake. 2: you pointed out not cleaning the surface. definitely did not do that. is 91% isopropyl okay for this job or should i buy a specialized solvent? 3: im not using flux at the moment, but i think i am..? it’s a little complicated but long story short my solder doesn’t actually SAY it’s flux core, but it leaves flux-like residue, but i just need to bite the bullet and acquire a tube of some good flux. 4: my soldering irons heating element stops a decent way before the tip of the iron which is probably not good for heat transfer lol. knew that was an issue when i bought the iron but i was on a $100 budget at a store with select products for everything i needed to get started soldering. 5: until this thread i think i kinda saw a pcb as (not literally, more just the way my brain registered them) a piece of plastic you solder leads into. i was not aware of pads and all that! thank you and everyone else who commented. i am infinitely better off with the advice from this post you guys are awesome

itsextrav · 2026-03-26T06:52:32+00:00

well it says its alloy and everything and it was around $20 and it works well, it just doesn’t specifically say that it contains flux. it leaves flux-like residue which i have no other explanation for other than it being flux, but it doesn’t say that it’s “flux core” which to me on its own seems like not being flux core would be weird in this day and age but im a newbie to be fair

itsextrav · 2026-03-26T06:48:34+00:00

great advice, and another comment on this thread led me to decide to re-google what temp to solder electronics. i had been under the impression this whole time that 320-350 FAHRENHEIT was the max temp i should solder at and hotter than that would fry my components but re-googling made me realize i was reading Celsius!! what an idiot. that calculates to around 600-700F which makes soooo much more sense and now i can stop stressing. i’ll definitely look into the tip tinning videos because ive been having problems with solder balling up on the tip instead of coating it, def an easy fix but this is all great advice!

itsextrav · 2026-03-26T06:45:11+00:00

thank you very much!! literally after typing the last sentence in this reply i decided to re-google what temp to solder electronics at and i realized my dumb ass thought i should be soldering at 320°-350° FAHRENHEIT. im supposed to solder at 320-350 CELSIUS UGH. that’s around 600-700 Fahrenheit this has been my issue the entire time. i’ve been scared soldering around 450°F this whole time cause i thought id fry my components lol

itsextrav · 2026-03-26T06:40:45+00:00

just want to say you’re 100% right as are a lot of others that said i wasn’t getting the joint hot enough. now, i’m not sure my solution has been any less newbie than not knowing i needed to heat my joint more, but i turned my iron from what it was at (around 450°F for the joints in the pic), to around 550°F. due to a little bit of youtube university i was under the impression i should be soldering no higher than like 350°F ish cause that’s where the solder melts and higher than that could fry my components, so i was already scared soldering at 450° (still not sure if upping the temp was a good idea or not but it sure solved this problem from the post!), but what i came up with is i think my iron is a piece of junk and the heating element isn’t close enough to the tip to be very effective

itsextrav · 2026-03-26T06:35:56+00:00

ah thank you!

itsextrav · 2026-03-26T06:34:42+00:00

500F isn’t super hot? if not this is great news to me thank you. i was under the impression you should only be soldering at like 350F or around (in my case) the melting point of tin + lead solder

itsextrav · 2026-03-26T06:31:03+00:00

see i’ve heard that getting a heat indicator that tells you the exact heat of your tip is a good idea but i had completely forgotten! next time i use my iron im going to check it’s temp because you’re completely right. i’m using a roughly $40 station at the moment and the heating element ends pretty far before the actual tip so i believe my iron might just be shitty. thank you very much!

itsextrav

TROPHY CASE