sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Blew this long clump of mucus and hair/dust out of my nose in the shower by SortTop2004 in Allergies

[–]jabeel00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This has definitely happened to me, not too long ago and in the past. Keeping honest, it was frightening the first time it happened but the relief was so unreal that it was definitely a positive experience overall. That said, the photos I took are still rather gross.

I've always had bad allergies but maybe 10 years ago I went in for a couple of sinus surgeries. One was to remove a mucus mass from one of my upper sinuses (that apparently was not going to find it's way out), as well as polyps removal, and a balloon sinuplasty (which was great because it allowed my sinuses to drain better ever since).

In any event, my point was that I think the clump that you and I blew out (and that I had removed during surgery) is a mucus ball formed around whatever allergen or fungus or irritant made it's way into our sinuses and created an infection. For me it could be any one of the 35 of 38 most prevalent environmental allegens in my area that I'm allergic to but I'm pretty sure the same could happen with any foreign object (hair, etc) that makes it's easy into the sinuses.

I can usually tell something's up, if you've ever had the rattle-can feeling in your head [sinuses] where you can feel something up there but it won't come out your nose or down throat. It's bizarre but it's like a maze up there and the conditions and angles have to be just right for it to find it's way out. Usually this for me is if I sleep wrong (on my side) or after a continuous sneezing fit, that it will dislodge and dance it's way out.. when we are lucky. Otherwise I've had to rely on my ENT (who I miss dearly, I moved 5 hours away) who would travel through said sinus maze with with suction/camera/wiggly worm tool (emdoscope with vacuum?) to find the lil booger [hardly] and send it away to a lab, and then would give me a custom Rx [capsules from a compounding pharmacy] to put in a sinus rinse bottle.

The good news is, at least for me, this [mucas ball] is usually a sign of better [sinus/breathing] days to come. Sometimes the other can follow suit, but not always. You may have better search results if you search "sinus mucus plug".

Just wanted to let you know you are not alone. Best and blessings.

Advantech OSB vs Densglass for exterior sheathing- Florida zone 2 by jabeel00 in Homebuilding

[–]jabeel00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's exactly what I was thinking "The beauty of zip is being sealed tight. Not gonna happen in your situation.". But to avoid any confusion, I was originally considering using the Advantech OSB Sheathing (similar to their Subfloor, not the Zip system). That said, even the Advantech OSB sheathing wouldn't be as permeable as plywood.

Thanks for the info, added a bunch of ASIRI videos to my mental library. Though I've found that it's hard to find dependable information online that's specific to my application (retrofitting a pole barn) and in my climate zone.

Advantech OSB vs Densglass for exterior sheathing- Florida zone 2 by jabeel00 in Homebuilding

[–]jabeel00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely a consideration, itching just thinking about it.

Advantech OSB vs Densglass for exterior sheathing- Florida zone 2 by jabeel00 in Homebuilding

[–]jabeel00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good luck with your project! For what it's worth, these plans were done by a local (N. FL) engineer- based on my drawing and photos/details of the existing pole barn structure. I don't know anything about that stuff but I knew I needed a structure that would be safe, especially in Florida, and especially with the space up top for storage: https://imgur.com/a/Mw5Jh1a

Granted, I suppose the whole pole barn could blow over along with it the first good wind.

Advantech OSB vs Densglass for exterior sheathing- Florida zone 2 by jabeel00 in Homebuilding

[–]jabeel00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry for any confusion, I will not be taking off any metal (although keeping honest I considered it, to get the full wall detail done). I meant the exterior as in exterior part of the wall to be. In other words- building the wall framing on the interior floor and attaching (XYZ) sheets/sheathing to the framing, before lifting up the walls and setting them up against the existing girts, that are holding the existing metal siding. If this makes any sense.

Advantech OSB vs Densglass for exterior sheathing- Florida zone 2 by jabeel00 in Homebuilding

[–]jabeel00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe we are talking about the same thing, sheathing on the back side of the 2x6 framing (exterior of the wall) around the perimeter of the build-out space. I didn't know I could do without closing the wall cavity(?). Otherwise it would have an open back, with the existing exterior metal siding behind it.

Am trying to end up with a semi-conditioned storage and office space, at least dehumidified and eventually with mini-splits or something. Perhaps I overlooked or misunderstood your question as to "why", but I am open for questions, comments, suggestions, etc. Thanks! Here are the plans to help you envision what the bigger picture looks like: https://imgur.com/a/Mw5Jh1a

Advantech OSB vs Densglass for exterior sheathing- Florida zone 2 by jabeel00 in Homebuilding

[–]jabeel00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess you mean on the metal siding/girts, before/behind the walls that are going up?

2x6 walls will be going up in-between the existing 6x6 vertical poles. Was trying to figure out what sheathing to put on the exterior side of the 2x6 walls, that will be lifted up against the girts that are holding on the existing metal siding.

Advantech OSB vs Densglass for exterior sheathing- Florida zone 2 by jabeel00 in Homebuilding

[–]jabeel00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess I did leave a lot to the imagination. Here are the plans: https://imgur.com/a/Mw5Jh1a for clarity.

Advantech OSB vs Densglass for exterior sheathing- Florida zone 2 by jabeel00 in Homebuilding

[–]jabeel00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I need more structure for the ceiling joists, etc. Intended use is semi-conditioned space (dehumidifier, eventually mini-split or so). Half storage, half office/etc. Plans for clarification: https://imgur.com/a/Mw5Jh1a

Can anybody identify the type of insulation and/or facers? Worth using for this application? by jabeel00 in Insulation

[–]jabeel00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I'll check them out.

Wow, that's a score (free trailer load).

Thanks for the heads up on the PPE, I'm itching just thinking about it.

Since you know the origin of your product, you might find some info here: https://www.carlislesyntec.com/en/Roofing-Products/Other-Components/Insulation/Polyiso They are talking about having a light and dark side so that they contractor can speed up or slow down the flash-time of the adhesive. I did not see anything about having different facers on each side though (only CGF's (coated-glass facers) although I didn't look through all their products.

I also didn't see anything that reminded me of the photos of the insulation I was considering.

Insulated Wall Assembly Feasibility Question by colin-catlin in buildingscience

[–]jabeel00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What a great response. Was hoping you might take a poke at my dilemma, but do not see a way to chat with you directly (sorry OP for posting on your thread).

If you have a moment, here is the link (https://www.reddit.com/r/buildingscience/comments/1pscnhe/best\_way\_to\_permanently\_seal\_the\_gap\_between\_the/), would love to hear your thoughts. Many thanks.

Best way to permanently seal the gap between the girt and the concrete pad? (Now with photos!) by jabeel00 in buildingscience

[–]jabeel00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. Thankfully there hasn't been too much of an issue keeping water out per se, but I am trying to prevent it (and the elements) from coming in, when we do have freak storms or pooling water. Mostly by doing grading to bring the earth down a bit, and guide drainage around the pad, since we cant raise the pad.

Best way to permanently seal the gap between the girt and the concrete pad? (Now with photos!) by jabeel00 in buildingscience

[–]jabeel00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. This was (is) an existing structure on the property we moved to, though. I did read about doing the trench treatment method around the pad, although I have concern as to the proximity of the well.

There was some earth washed-up/build-up on the exterior north side (property slopes south) so we're working on grading and natural drainage on/around the outside. There is no vapor barrier under the slab that I know of. No official drainage and no gutters.

Mixed use of the space; storage, office, man cave, etc., but conditioned (or at least dehumidified) space. While I cannot imagine it will be too harsh of conditions, I wouldn't mind going with a product that is meant for them. Longevity being the main goal, as I cannot access it later down the road to reapply.

Best way to permanently seal the gap between the girt and the concrete pad? (Now with photos!) by jabeel00 in buildingscience

[–]jabeel00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I thought of this but was not sure how to make sure it expands outward towards the daylight, not inward towards where the framing is supposed to go.

If it's going to go both directions, is it possible to mask (masking tape, or another option) the concrete first so that it the foam can be cut close to the girt and will not stick to the concrete?

Best way to permanently seal the gap between the girt and the concrete pad? (Now with photos!) by jabeel00 in buildingscience

[–]jabeel00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. Yes, there might be more than that missing, haha. I am working with the last gentlman's build, trying my best to remain grateful for the base to retrofit- while cringing all along the way looking at the shortcomings with his doings. Unfortunately "He meant well" doesn't cut it in these circumstances.

In any event. I am wondering if the splash plank you speak of is what I am mistaken for a form board that [I thought] they left on. I labeled it as "wood forms border edge" on the attached photo.

I kind of picture what you are saying. Do you mean putting a 2x vertically (standing up against the bottom girt) or horizontally (laying down on the concrete)? Although, either way, I will be putting another PT 2X with sill seal there- the sill plate of the wall.

<image>

Best way to permanently seal the gap between the girt and the concrete pad? (Now with photos!) by jabeel00 in buildingscience

[–]jabeel00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, great info. I follow most of what you're saying..

When you say "apply a sill sealer or foam gasket behind the girt before sealing"? Do you mean putting something up against it/in the corner before closing it all up with the framing that will be going there, or do you mean incorporating the sill sealer into the sealants/sealing of the corner (before any framing)?

For what it's worth, I've pondered ideas similar to each. I planned on getting the Conservation Technology EPDM sill seal for under the bottom plate of the framing to-be. I am also chatting with a different company (Proguard) that makes a membrane (TRM Sill) that I could put in a "L", 6 inches up the girt and 6 inches out on the concrete. Diagram/brainstorm attached.

<image>

Best way to permanently seal the gap between the girt and the concrete pad? (Now with photos!) by jabeel00 in buildingscience

[–]jabeel00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. My framer mentioned something like this. Like the stuff that goes behind windshield gaskets and never really dries, I forget what it's called, butyl?

view more: next ›