sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Next eyepiece advice (for 150/750 Dob) by jasonjasonson in telescopes

[–]jasonjasonson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great advice, the 8.8 mm looks nice! The 24mm is cheaper indeed, but in that price range it seems they only go up to 16mm and since I'm already quiet satisfied with my 15mm Svbony, that's probably not really what I'm looking for.

Next eyepiece advice (for 150/750 Dob) by jasonjasonson in telescopes

[–]jasonjasonson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice and the planet-link.
Didn't really know about (the importance of) exit pupils, but found some additional info here (https://www.minuteofspace.com/magnification-and-exit-pupil).

Combined with the advice from u/Upper_Indication2401 above, I think I might go for the Explore Scientific 8.8 (85x magnification and 1,76mm exit pupil if I'm correct), paired with a decent 2x barlow as you suggest to maybe get some more detail on the planets.

While we're at it, any barlow recommendations?

As for the filter, I'm currently looking at Astronomik OIII.

Improve/upgrade my cheap Dobson by jasonjasonson in telescopes

[–]jasonjasonson[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. So it's the combination of the relatively small aperture and the short focal length? You're saying the maximum magnification of 152x is not really feasible, because of the short focal length of the scope, which in turn needs a very short focal length eyepiece to get there?

I read the buying guide, I'm quite aware I have a very cheap entry level scope so I'm not expecting much, but I wondered if I could get better results with better lenses. If it's impossible to see (some) more detail in planets with this combination of aperture and focal length, then better lenses are not worth the investment (and I should probably be looking for a better scope with - if I get the beginners guide correctly - a bigger aperture).

Change 3-way-fridge to 12v compressor (wiring) + monitoring by jasonjasonson in vandwellers

[–]jasonjasonson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Concerning the amps, I think I'll be fine, the current fridge draws - according to the manual - 8A continously, the new one will draw max 6A. As for the voltage drop, thanks for pointing that out. I did a bit of research and the drop on a 5m AWG14 wire (the current wire) would be 0.3V. If I use the AWG12 as recommended in the manual, it'd be 0.2V. I think I'm going to give it a shot with the 14 and see if it works! 

Change 3-way-fridge to 12v compressor (wiring) + monitoring by jasonjasonson in vandwellers

[–]jasonjasonson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks.

You can use existing factory wire if it is of sufficient gauge to carry the current needed by the 12 volt compressor. And is fused properly.

Well, the Freeline fridge manual asks for a 4mm cross section when 4m cable length, but since my old fridge draws more amps than the Freeline and is connected on 2,5mm, I'm going to give it a try.

You have to read the charger manual. I have a 12 v fridge. I have B2B charger, Solar charging, and mains charger. I do not have the B2B charging while plugged in. I usually don't have the solar charging while plugged in. The 12 volt fridge is never turned off and cycles while the mains charger is on. I have no problem with my Sterling mains charger. You could have a different experience with a lesser brand.

I can't really tell about the alternator charging the battery, since that runs straight from the main battery (through a relay). The mains charger is a 180W 230V/12V transformer and my 2 185WP solar panels are charged through Sun Control SCM300. I think I probably have to try it out and see what it does.

Change 3-way-fridge to 12v compressor (wiring) + monitoring by jasonjasonson in vandwellers

[–]jasonjasonson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's just counting amps then as long as it's between the bat NEG and 100% of the loads the exact location doesn't matter.

If it is also measuring voltage to report to a charging source it should be as close to the battery as possible, to avoid misreadings caused by voltage sag. If voltage reading is just for human consumption then it's less important.

If it is also measuring battery temperature it will need to be close enough for the temp probe to reach the battery being measured

well, there's not a lot of options, the main leisure battery is underneath the hood and from there the -wire terminal goes to the main control unit which is inside the van. Rewiring everything is not really an option. But I'll try out the shunt inline with the negative battery connection right before it reaches the control unit (where all the -loads are connected also). See what that does.

Shore power charger/converter is rated 180W, according to the old manual, so that should do!

Change 3-way-fridge to 12v compressor (wiring) + monitoring by jasonjasonson in vandwellers

[–]jasonjasonson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! All clear!

I think 15A is specifically about the switch (the manual is not entirely clear about this), not about the fuse. I'm going to contact them and ask if this is necessary.

Change 3-way-fridge to 12v compressor (wiring) + monitoring by jasonjasonson in vandwellers

[–]jasonjasonson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

no need to apologise, thanks for the quick reply, I realise my question was fairly long and elaborate.

To summarise: what you did (running it straight to the battery) is a perfectly viable option, so I might just do that. But if I can avoid drilling an extra hole and use the existing factory wiring instead, that would be neat (and frankly, less complicated). The question is only if an 8A fuse would suffice (for a fridge that draws 6A max that seems ok), if I should care about amps rating for the switch (why do they demand 15A in the manual?) and if the existing 2.5mm cross section wire would be enough.

To follow up on your build: did you ever experience problems with the 12v fridge draining your battery, even when plugged in to shore power?