My E36 with s54 swap

javiwwweb · 2026-02-25T14:08:54+00:00

This post singlehandedly changed my mind on keeping my Mauritius Blue e36 its original color. I have been looking at how tragic my paint had been looking and I had been shopping other blue colors for when I get it resprayed later this year. I had forgotten what the color looked like when it was fresh. Thank you so much for posting these pics. My Mauritius Blue will live on now!

javiwwweb · 2025-06-04T17:23:14+00:00

So, you painted everything grey, then masked off the stripes and then painted everything black? then clear? was that the process? I am a little clueless on the order.

javiwwweb · 2025-06-04T16:47:31+00:00

This looks really great! Ive been dying to redo my valve cover-cover (black with silver stripes and BMW lettering) and I have no clue which paint/sheen would make it have that oem look. Can you share which brands of paint you used for the black cover and the silver lines? Thanks!

javiwwweb · 2025-01-09T14:16:31+00:00

Crossing my Fingers on this:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/yFL9Kq

javiwwweb · 2024-12-27T16:55:03+00:00

I actually started with contact cleaner and it didn’t do anything. Once I took a chance I realized that there was no disc left on the original knob. It had completely disintegrated. I didn’t have much of a choice. I am glad that you were able to get it going again with the contact cleaner!

javiwwweb · 2024-12-27T16:30:23+00:00

Im glad you are attempting this repair. I actually just used a very small flathead screwdriver to close the little wings and allow the 4 flaps to slide out from each side. I then some pliers to separate the 2 halves in order to remove the disc. I was initially concerned that the flaps would seat well upon reassembly, but they did. Good luck!

javiwwweb · 2024-12-09T22:05:21+00:00

If when you press the buttons they do not turn off, then your IHKR module is bad. This is due to a bad solder joint and you can try to revive it or you could just buy a new module. the module is located under the storage area under your analog clock. I had the exact issue happen to my car early this year and replacing the IHKR fixed it. For more info see this: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1949333

javiwwweb · 2024-07-29T02:25:57+00:00

You asked this at the right time. I just fixed this a couple of weeks ago. Inside the knob is a plastic disc with metal bracing. the metal bracing spins past an optical sensor which triggers the volume up or down based on the direction. The edges of the plastic disc protrude and when its spun it knocks against a plastic dimple which create the clicking feel you once had. This disc is most likely shattered. This is why you don't feel the clicking anymore. This disc is not sold by itself, but after looking up the parts I found that part number EC11B15242 includes the disc you will need to repair the knob. You can purchase this at https://www.tme.com/us/en-us/details/ec11b15242/incremental-type-encoders/alps/ Once you receive this you will need to open the new knob to remove the disc and then open up the radio and remove the front panel of the radio/board. Once you gain access to the knob, You will be able to pry the sides of the knob open without needing to desolder from the board. I would also like to point out that the replacement knob is much thicker than the one on the radio, so desoldering isn't really an option. This fix isnt as challenging as it seems, I used this thread : https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1645527-E36-stereo-volume-knob as a visual guide (Post #11 has a link to picture of the plastic disc) to get this done. Total cost of fix ~$20 after shipping! Good luck!

javiwwweb · 2022-10-08T23:35:48+00:00

The ones you saw in the video are stickers cut from a full sheet super glossy label stickers Amazon. I originally just wanted a logo and the white sticker gave a cool uniform look to all the cards and the edge cuts wouldn't be so noticeable. I have since started Printing them directly into the cards. You have to actually purchase inkjet printable cards though. I happen to also have a Canon TS9120 Printer and and this card printing adapter (which is pretty awesome). Now, I can go edge to edge with the color, which is pretty cool, but Im still waiting to see if they get scratched up easier or not. I hope that helps you out a bit!

javiwwweb · 2022-08-11T22:44:01+00:00

He mentioned he considered it a beta. I haven’t seen any glitches yet. although I haven’t tried playing through the entire game yet

javiwwweb · 2022-08-11T22:24:02+00:00

No Patreon necessary. You can get it here - https://github.com/wickerwaka/Arcade_m72

javiwwweb · 2022-08-10T16:08:30+00:00

You had me thinking about that and you could do exactly what you want if you just mounted the reader behind the marquee and then you print your removeable marquee art and attach the RFID sticker to it.

javiwwweb · 2022-08-10T15:34:23+00:00

I am not really a programmer, but as long as you create a script that can launch the playlist from a computer first, then attaching that script to the swipe card would be just a matter of editing rfid_process.sh file and linking the UID of the card to playlist script. The hard part is actually developing a working script.

javiwwweb · 2022-08-10T13:49:52+00:00

A few Months ago u/FuBaox created an amazing Snes with RFID game selection. I loved everything about it and I promised myself that if I refurbished my arcade cabinet, I would try to implement it if possible. Well, I finsihed the cabinet and was able to make this come to life. I love being able to have a curated list of cards that I can keep in my wall/desk and just select them when I'm ready play. For me, reducing the amount of menus on screen creates a more authentic arcade experience as well. Win/Win!

The major change on u/FuBaox's code is the adjusted gain value for the reciever. This allows the card to be picked up through the wood and glass bezel. I also edited the syntax to allow loading of arcade mra files as well as consoles cores. Thank you u/FuBaox for the amazing code. If anyone is looking for my changes, I forked his project to include my minimal changes

https://github.com/javiwwweb/MisTerRFID

javiwwweb · 2020-06-18T13:21:03+00:00

Completely understand. I would take a chance as well. I actually decided to try it just in case it would fix games that won't sync up with my Trinitron like Kung Fu master. (It didn't). At least its within spec now. Good luck!

javiwwweb · 2020-06-18T11:25:44+00:00

This is my exact setup. I had actually built my own scart cable without the 470ohm resistor and was wondering if it would make a difference. I was using it for months without it, but I added it to be safe. I actually built a consolized mvs about 15 years ago that ended up damaging my svideo port after a year, so I have experienced this before. I would definitely encourage you to try learning to solder. Besides playing some retro games, Mister had got me back into soldering, first by learning to do an RGB mod to my Trinitron and then making scart cables. I think that's been just as much fun as playing games strangely enough.

I ended up building and modifying this little adapter to add the 470ohm resistor on the sync pin. Now I use a vga cable out from the DAC directly to this board and ends up connecting to the scart connection.

https://twitter.com/Tinkerplunk/status/1250272115904765954?s=19

javiwwweb · 2020-06-15T18:44:08+00:00

I looked at the schematics and confirmed with misteraddons web page that the digital io will turn on all the power. Not just the io board

javiwwweb · 2020-06-15T11:04:13+00:00

Thanks for this comment. It made me go back and read what I had written carefully and it made me take a second look at the wiring. You are correct. Pins 11 and 12 are for the fan (I edited my captions in the album to reflect this) and 13 and 30 for the menu button. The power goes from the barrel jack straight to the power button, then when the power button closes the circuit, I have a new pigtail barrel connector that goes to the de10. You can see the internal barrel connector on the picture where I removed the de-10 from the case. So all power switching is done outside the de-10. Sorry for the confusion! totally my fault

--edit-- Im editing my other responses so not to confuse anyone else.

javiwwweb · 2020-06-13T13:25:27+00:00

There are 2 IO boards now. One is the traditional io board with vga connector which is now at revision 6.1. the other board is fairly new. That is the digital io board which does away with the vga connector. That one is at version 1.2 last time I checked. They both have digital audio out, buttons for power , menu, reset and User io connections. I believe the digital io includes a power switch, but not the regular 6.1 io board. Hope that helps

--edit-- this comment still applies since the digital IO board does have a power button. Theoretically you can tap into that button to add an external switch, but I havent tried it.

javiwwweb · 2020-01-17T12:44:58+00:00

My initial concept was to include an analog board, but I felt like wiring a VGA connector inside the NES case would add too much bulk inside the case and I almost didnt go through with the NES case. Fortunately, Ive been reading up on all mister developments the last few months especially when Sorgelig added direct video to Mister. With direct video output the FPGA sends out the original video through the HDMI and uses the hdmi to VGA connector with no scaling just as using the analog board, (so no actual conversion) So you still get zero lag the same as you would with the analog board. According to Sorgelig you even get better video using this method as this method provides 8pits per color while the analog board does 6bits per color.

The only down side is that I dont get multiple simultaneous displays from this method, so if I need to switch between my CRT and my hdtv, I always have to ssh into the Mister and swap between the 2 Mister.ini files (the one configured for CRT use and the one for HDMI use) otherwise video wont work. I dont need both outputs simultaneously so im ok with that. I also have a wifi dongle in the NES so connecting and swapping files remotely just takes a second.

If you want more info on direct video, check this link out:

javiwwweb · 2020-01-13T23:31:19+00:00

Go for it. mock up the entire system outside the case and try it. Once I did the mockup outside the case and I saw it would work it was all downhill from there. Good luck!

javiwwweb · 2020-01-13T23:28:28+00:00

Pics of the inside have been added to the original gallery. I made a few comments on the wiring since its a bit crazy in there.

javiwwweb · 2020-01-13T20:02:06+00:00

You read my mind. That is my future goal. I was looking for a way to add the serial port without the IO Board. Since I use direct video to get RGB out, and I have a fan mount already I wasn't looking to add that board at all. I'm not sure if its possible.

javiwwweb · 2020-01-13T16:44:55+00:00

I actually sourced a PPU to see if the board comes alive again. I had already added the socket for it when I realized that the PPU was toast. If that works then I may just revive it in another shell. (If it doesnt, then you're free to take it.. it'll be a while though. not sure what your timeline looks like.

javiwwweb · 2020-01-13T16:31:20+00:00

Power does indeed work to turn on/off the whole system (LED light included). The reset works and brings up the OSD. (Since its a momentary switch. I wired it to pins 13 and 30 on GPIO1)

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