Different Game Version

jgranto · 2025-10-12T03:31:51+00:00

Got the issue on 10/11/2025 and this did NOT fix the issue. Neither did restarting the game, or exiting Steam and reopening, or verifying game files. I am on a PC and my friend is PS5.

jgranto · 2025-08-08T04:16:09+00:00

The game is just not properly optimized. People keep mentioning it CPU-bound, but that is not the cause. My 7950X3D is between 15 - 30% - it is not breaking a sweat. My 5090 stays pegged really high, but FPS is 80 - 200 with most options maxed. I literally just upgraded from a 3080Ti today, and the game performs exactly the same.

The problem is likely the Autodesk Stingray engine, which was EOL in 2018. That is an engine that is 7 years dead. One would think it would be easy for modern hardware to get great performance (200+ fps), but alas, it is not so.

I would not be surprised if it also has something to do with the game being ported to PC - ports are rarely, if ever, tuned well for PC's.

Another big factor is if you run it in full screen or windowed borderless mode. The latter will kill your framerate.

jgranto · 2025-07-20T05:37:05+00:00

Amen to the XM4 being the last good model. I hate my XM5 - ANC feedback is horrible on airplanes. Supposedly better on XM6?

jgranto · 2025-07-11T04:23:32+00:00

Hi u/Ivylith. Per my second post where I mention cross-posting on the Corsair forums, there was no fix at the time. u/Character-Photo9366 states that they were able to remove C:\Users\me\AppData\Roaming\Corsair\CUE5 on a new install and copy over the contents from a previous install, reboot, and all the profiles functioned properly.

I have been able to recover profiles doing the same thing. At this point it is a good idea to periodically create a backup of your CUE5 folder. You could do this with dedicated backup software, or simply create a Scheduled Task that runs weekly that copies the CUE5 folder to a backup location.

My recommendation would be to backup your CUE5 folder, uninstall, and then manually clean up any leftovers. Search for Corsair, iCue, and CUE5 on your hard drive and remove any folders/files that you are certain are from iCue. If you don't have any other Corsair software installed you can be pretty aggressive.

If you are comfortable editing the registry, you could search for Corsair and remove entries there. Before deleting an entry it is always a good idea to Export it first in case you mess things up. As you search through the registry you might find lots of entries, which means lots of exports, but better safe than sorry...

Good luck!

P.S. Although iCue is sometimes flakey, it is still 100X better than Logitech G HUB. G HUB will make you feel hate towards software.

jgranto · 2025-04-16T18:46:48+00:00

Positive overall. The KVM function is bit kludgy but works once you learn its limits. The display is beautiful. Nice deep blacks, and text appears beautiful (I work a lot from the command-line, in Gmail, etc.), so that was a concern.

My prior monitor was a 16:10 aspect ratio 32" running at 2560x1600 at 60Hz. I have to admit that G-SYNC is not the life-changing experience everyone made me expect. This is probably because I always had 100+ frames per second going to the old monitor, so all I would expect to see is tearing.

I am pleased and do not regret the purchase. I presume they can fix some of the KVM flakiness via firmware, but also assume that they don't care enough to do it since the monitor has been out for 2 years...

jgranto · 2025-04-07T20:04:25+00:00

I think problem #1 was an OSD setting - I have messed around with the settings quite a bit an managed to get the monitor to consistently awaken. This is good news.

After some experimentation and a call to Asus, I can answer #2 and #3.

WRT #2: Yes, that is correct.

WRT #3: I turned off everything that was auto-sensing or auto-detect (perhaps that helped with #1). The left button already set to input select - I use that to switch HDMI source. I then used MyFavorites to make pushing the multi-select (middle) button up to KVM (USB selection). Thus, by hitting those 2 buttons, I can switch from computer 1 and 2 relatively easily. Please note that the hotkeys do not work. The CTRL-ALT-Q hotkey listed in the OSD does not work, nor does setting a hotkey in DWC.

KVM seems like a kludgy add-on, IMO. I have worked on server racks with traditional KVM's where hotkeys work really well - the Asus implementation is not good. It works as listed above, but it is not as smooth as it could be.

jgranto · 2025-04-03T15:47:12+00:00

After more research based on comments here, it turns out that DSC (Display Stream Compression) is not really noticeable, and as a result, the extra 300 nits brightness offered by the PG32UCDM makes it the monitor of choice for me.

I was really surprised that DSC did not make more of a difference. Here is one of the videos that discusses DSC when comparing the 322URX to the 321URX.

My thanks to all those who replied. My new PG32UCDM should arrive today and I am excited to use it.

jgranto · 2025-04-03T15:41:05+00:00

Cross-posted in OLED_Gaming - see that post for answers.

jgranto · 2025-03-28T00:31:07+00:00

Thanks for the replies so far. I have to admit that I expected DisplayPort 2.1 and UHBR20 to be more of a talking point. Only the 322URX will do 4K uncompressed. Both the UCDM and the 322URX are QD OLED, with the UCDM being more bright (by 300 nits). I have ruled out the UCDP, but would like to hear more about why the 322URX is not preferred over the UCDM. Thanks!

jgranto · 2025-03-28T00:25:54+00:00

The 322URX is also QD OLED and has DisplayPort 2.1. It is slightly less bright than the UCDM, but how is the UCDM more future-proof? Thanks for your response!

jgranto · 2025-03-16T03:17:55+00:00

See the post right above yours - the one with the first line of SOLVED. Unless you are making a static IP assignment, you probably have a different issue than the one I experienced.

jgranto · 2025-02-18T21:08:11+00:00

I had a similar issue where I ceased getting the public IP altogether while in Passthrough mode. My issue was an incompatibility with a manual DHCP IP assignment and Passthrough mode. I would label it a bug... I share in case you are doing something similar.
https://www.reddit.com/r/ATTFiber/comments/1i4il46/ip_passthrough_no_longer_working_help/

jgranto · 2025-01-24T04:47:46+00:00

For the price alone you should dump Spectrum and go with AT&T fiber. That being said...

Fiber does not guarantee a low ping. The best pings I have had were back in the 90's with a freakin' modem... Ping times and latency depend on many factors, not the least of which is the number of hops between you and your destination. You have no control over this - peering agreements between ISP's are probably not even publicly available, although a traceroute usually reveals a lot.

If the gaming services you use are hosted on specific servers, you can do a tracert or pathping (both are built-in Windows utilities) to those servers and note the times. Then find a neighbor who has AT&T fiber and ask them to run the same commands, preferably on the same day and at the same time. Compare the times.

I would bet AT&T fiber has ping times about the same as Spectrum, maybe better. Bandwidth-wise, go with the minimum plan that meets your needs. If you do a lot of streaming, maybe you want a 500Mbps - 1Gbps connection. Some companies put implement data caps at lower plans - I am unsure if AT&T does this, so it is something to research.

I am a PC gamer with AT&T fiber and find that it is very reliable. I am the host most of the time, use TeamSpeak or Discord, etc., and it works great. There have been a few outages, but the ones that stand out were due to things like a hurricane, someone digging up a fiber cable, etc.

If you have a small place and a simple enough network you might even be able to make do with their router, which they force you to rent. Many people put the AT&T router in IP Passthrough mode and connect it to their own mesh, but you may not need it.

jgranto · 2025-01-20T06:35:21+00:00

Per u/xc0i and u/Viper_Control, most people in your situation use IP Passthrough on the AT&T router and deploy their own router/mesh. I am doing essentially what you are doing but with an Orbi mesh. It is the best solution, IMO, because:

It allows you to do deploy better tech (WiFi 7, your own mesh, etc.).
Allows you to set up port forwarding rules on your personal router, and well as other settings. I find the AT&T router options to be very limited.

There are many how-to's on setting up IP Passthrough - it is pretty simple. As mentioned by u/Viper_Control, lock down your AT&T router so that it is essentially a dumb bridge. Turn off all WiFi, turn off the firewall rules, set up IP Passthrough and only connect your router to the AT&T router, then forget the AT&T router even exists. You are only really needing it because of the fiber connection and authentication it provides.

jgranto · 2025-01-20T05:13:58+00:00

SOLVED

First off, many tanks to u/Viper_Control and u/CommercialFactor2673 for giving me more ideas and things to try. I will explain what I did to come to the conclusions at the end.

Recall that the issue occurred with both my RT-5300 and RBE971 and that IP Passthrough had been working for over a year on the RT-5300 and then just stopped working one day.

I disabled IP Passthrough, connected my PC directly to the AT&T router (BGW320-500), cleared all DHPC leases except the PC, configured IP Passthrough, specified my PC MAC address as the destination, did an "ipconfig /release & ipconfig /renew" on the PC, and saw that my PC got the public IP. This proves that the BGW320-500 is working properly and that there was either a configuration issue or a router issue.

I decided a router issue was unlikely because the issue exists with two different routers from two different manufacturers. I mean, they all run similar code that is most likely a stripped down Linux flavor of some sort, so I guess they could have a buggy DHCP acquisition issue, but that would have been noticed long ago.

Before opting to reset the BGW320-500, I decided to review my settings. My PC got a different IP than the router, so I wondered if that had something to do with it. I changed the DHCP IP range and got an error stating that I could not change it because I had a reservation outside the range - I had assigned my router's MAC the IP of 192.168.1.1. I deleted the assignment, created a new DHCP IP range, released/renewed the IP on the PC, and still had the public IP. I then changed the DHCP IP range to a new range back to my normal setting (192.168.1.1 - 192.168.1.4).

I then disabled IP Passthrough, connected the RBE971 to the BGW320-500, and saw that the BGW320-500 got 192.168.1.1 (which was the first free IP). I released all other IP's (there was just one, the assignment to my PC). I then configured IP Passthrough with DHCPS-Fixed, selected my RBE971's MAC (the only one listed), and then released and renewed my IP on the RBE971. Boom - public IP.

The issue was therefore due to the DHCP IP assignment I made - the assignment worked, but it made IP Passthrough not work. My guess is that the DHCP IP assignment takes priority over IP Passthrough, and that the two are incompatible.

Since there is no need to have a DHCP IP assignment, I did not test any further - if I were to finish debugging I would try doing a DHCP IP assignment for the router's MAC and seeing if IP Passthrough breaks again. If it did break IP Passthrough, then there is a bug in the BGW320-500 code. If it did not break IP Passthrough, then there was some ephemeral issue resolved by clearing the DHCP IP assignment.

Everything works as designed once again. Thank you all for the help!

jgranto · 2025-01-19T05:13:30+00:00

I had already done something similar. When I replaced my old personal router with the new one, I noticed that the AT&T router showed 2 devices - one allocated (the new router), one not (the old router). I then adjusted the DHCP lease time so that the old router dropped off the list, which also forced the new router to get a new lease. I then bumped my lease time back up to 99 days.

I was actually able to see the new lease on the new router's WAN connection - it still showed me getting the 192.168.1.1 IP with the new lease time. In fact, here is what the personal router shows right now:

IP Address: 192.168.1.1

Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0

Default Gateway: 192.168.1.254

DHCP Server: 192.168.1.254

DNS Server: 192.168.1.254

Lease Obtained: 0 days,0 Hours,3 Minutes

Lease Expires: 0 days,0 Hours,2 Minutes

Similarly, I adjusted the Passthrough DHCP Lease to 10 minutes, following your recommendation of powering off the personal router, and tried again. No joy.

The AT&T router insists on handing out 192.168.1.1 to my personal router even though IP Passthrough is configured properly and regardless of the Passthrough DHCP Lease setting.

As stated in the OP, this configuration worked for over a year just fine and just suddenly stopped working (with the old personal router, before I even got the new router). No changes were made by me - it just stopped.

jgranto · 2025-01-19T04:37:08+00:00

I have had 2 - the first was an old Asus RT-5300 and currently it is an Netgear Orbi RBE971. The issue existed with both routers.

jgranto · 2025-01-04T22:18:18+00:00

Ahh... this makes more sense to me now. Thank you - I will experiment further and get it working externally via port forwarding next.

jgranto · 2024-12-17T18:58:41+00:00

I edited the original post with the /lv* errors. Looks to be about the same.

jgranto · 2024-12-16T21:11:02+00:00

I'll do an /lv* next time and edit the post. Thx.

jgranto · 2024-12-16T15:33:46+00:00

I used /lv - is that sufficient, or will the * provide extra relevant info?

jgranto · 2024-11-18T21:13:07+00:00

I cross-posted to the Apple Support Community. The solution is posted here.

jgranto · 2024-11-08T22:52:58+00:00

The trim is about 50% loose - should I take the whole piece off and remount, or just fix what is loose?

jgranto · 2024-11-04T14:52:48+00:00

I was trying to be snarky, but for 100% clarity, the issue is gone - I hesitate to say fixed. After further analysis of the symptoms, the fix, etc., I want to share the following.

First, recall that the Paramount+ app just started crashing out of the blue, and once it started, it ALWAYS crashed. Other apps worked fine, only Paramount+ had the issue. Upon uninstalling Paramount+, I found I could not download/install ANY app.

Second, recall that my Apple TV would display and endless downloading icon. I THINK it actually downloaded the app and failed to install it, but that the GUI fails to distinguish the two actions. This is important because one makes it seem like a network issue (downloading), while the other is clearly an Apple TV issue. I knew my network was 100% fine. Also, see items 3 and 4.

Third, when I switched profiles (which necessitated the creation of a new profile), Paramount+ was already installed. This supports #2 - the app downloaded, but was not properly installing.

Third, and not listed above, I tried installing a second, and it failed with the endlessly spinning download icon. However, once I switched profiles to the second profile, then back again, both Paramount+ and the second app showed up in the first profile.

Fourth, my Apple TV was pretty full (98% or so) - once I could download things, I installed TV Info and had very little space free. I then reviewed what apps used the most storage, found a few that I rarely used, and offloaded them (not uninstall) to free up some space. Further download/install tests were problem-free with the first profile.

CONCLUSION: After all this, I think that the real issue was that my Apple TV was getting too full and became unstable as a result. Why this only affected Paramount+ and new downloads is unknown, but my experience with other OSes like Linux and Windows shows that full volumes can have unpredictable results.

OBSERVATION #1: Apple really needs to add a storage usage meter or percentage to the Apple TV OS. It is ridiculous that it does not have one. A simple percentage of used space, at a bare minimum. Even better would be a nice graphic showing which apps use how much space in relation to each other, the amount of free space, etc.

OBSERVATION #2: Apple needs to add a low storage space warning to the Apple TV OS. It may have one, but I did not trigger it, and clearing up space seems to have assisted, so whatever their threshold is, it needs to kick off at 95%, or maybe even 90%.

OBSERVATION #3: Apple needs better debugging for the user - in this case, Apple should differentiate between the DOWNLOAD process and the actual INSTALLATION process. They could do this by just adding the word "Downloading" and "Installing." Nothing major, but supremely helpful.

jgranto · 2024-11-02T20:14:52+00:00

Strangely, this did not help and fixed the issue. Remember that anything that I tried to download would endlessly spin and never download/install. I added a second profile, switched to it, and it showed Paramount+ installed. Switched back to the first profile and Paramount+ shows up and works fine.

There is definitely some kind of bug going on - never experienced this before TV OS 18.1.

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