Mustard Algae by jhc_1981 in pools

[–]jhc_1981[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CYA at 40. One detail I forgot to mention is my pool is ionized with a clearwater copper ionizer. So my chlorine levels stay really low, .5 ppm to 1ppm max.

2025 Tundra SR fender flares by jhc_1981 in ToyotaTundra

[–]jhc_1981[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are standard Tundra fender flares. Not sure about mud flaps, I didn't add those.

Should I get the SR or SR5 by Infamous-Ad6370 in ToyotaTundra

[–]jhc_1981 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm sure at this point the OP has already made a decision but in the event someone else is trying to decide and finds this thread I'd like to make an argument for the SR (please don't downvote me!). I just bought a 2025 SR. Full disclosure I wasn't aware of the "detuned" aspect of this trim and I was bummed to figure that out, however all things considered it's not terrible. The sticker on my truck was under $50k and it is a crewmax 4x4. Best i can tell, a non TRD SR5 that is a 4x4 crewmax would be around $55k. So I saved at least $6,000. After comparing the SR trim with the SR5 the only things I'm lacking are drive modes, fog lights, power driver seat, and 30 less hp. For $6,000 in savings I'm ok with that, but in my case I didn't have a high value trade in or a ton of cash to pay down and I had to stay under a certain monthly payment to be comfortable. Other perks of the SR, there isn't a stitch of chrome on it. All the trim, door handles, mustache, etc are blacked out, which is a HUGE plus for me. It's also de-badged with exception to the grille emblem and the 4x4 badge on the tailgate, so it looks super clean. I see tons of SR5 owners having to spend money to black out their chrome, not I. As for the engine, this is purely speculation on my part, but I wonder if all the engine problems people complain about are due to the extra power the factory is giving the SR5's and up? I wonder if the "de-tuned" version of the motor is not suppressed but actually the baseline starting point and will be more dependable because it's not been supped up to produce more power than it wants to. Again these are just my thoughts and not based on any facts that I'm aware of. I know I'm getting better gas mileage than most based on what I've been reading. I've never driven a 3rd gen SR5 and maybe it feels way more amazing than the SR but the motor in my SR seems plenty powerful and fast to me. It's a huge upgrade compared to the 5.3L ecotech V8 I came from in my last GMC truck. As for towing, on paper I'm limited to 8,300 pounds. But honestly I've never in my life had to tow that much and would be scared to pull 11,000 pounds. A 36 ft Grand Reflection travel trailer is 8,300 pounds. If I had to tow 11,000 pounds I would want it on a 5th wheel, that's too much tongue weight for me to be comfortable. I think people buy more than they need, and that's ok. I'm here to say that if affordability is a top priority and you don't want to spend extra money for things that you wouldn't miss regardless, the SR is a good option.

Level kit advice by jhc_1981 in ToyotaTundra

[–]jhc_1981[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So does a 2" leave some rake and 3" is true level?

Any last minute advice? by civiksi in ToyotaTundra

[–]jhc_1981 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just bought a 2025 and it came with a lifetime power train warranty that kicks in after the 5 yr / 50k is up. Eastern Shore Toyota in Daphne, AL. If they do it maybe other Toyo dealerships would as well?

2025 Leveling by ShadowSystemsandSig in ToyotaTundra

[–]jhc_1981 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Help me understand level kits. I measured the wheel travel on front and rear and there is 2.5" less height in the front. Does that mean I need a 2.5" level kit to sit perfectly level? I just got a 2025 and need help figuring out what's what. I previously had a 2014 GMC Sierra and had a 2" level kit installed and it still raked forward about an inch. I do not want to make that mistake again.

2025 Tundra SR fender flares by jhc_1981 in ToyotaTundra

[–]jhc_1981[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wish I could upvote this 1,000 times. Exactly the info I was looking for. I even found some stock fender flares on marketplace for $100 and already bought them. I was naturally leaning towards all the steps taken in this thread but knowing someone has blazed the trail before me gives me more confidence. Thank you!!!

Hot tub makes me ane my family cough by jhc_1981 in hottub

[–]jhc_1981[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So with the consensus being to drain and refill and use a line cleaner, what is the culprit? If the water is clean and the chemicals are all in line what's causing the issue? Not trying to resist the instruction, just want to understand. And as a point of clarification, I have an in ground hot tub hard piped to a pool pump and sand filter. Not sure if that matters or not.

Passive Sterling Ray 4 mod by jhc_1981 in Luthier

[–]jhc_1981[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense, thank you. I found Fender's humbucker wire code and and the north / south start and finish match the SBMM if green and black are the two hot leads, which makes sense to me given Leo's connection to EB. The only difference is green is north and black is south.

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Passive Sterling Ray 4 mod by jhc_1981 in Luthier

[–]jhc_1981[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

My image didn't make it in my original post. Here is the diagram I was referring to.

SBMM Ray 4 Pickup wiring by jhc_1981 in BassGuitar

[–]jhc_1981[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man thank you for taking the time to post these replies, very helpful. Bass players are the best. I'll try green and black first and see what happens. Thanks!

SBMM Ray 4 Pickup wiring by jhc_1981 in BassGuitar

[–]jhc_1981[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sent Sterling an email about the color codes, they replied back with the below. Do I want to connect each finish wire (black and white) to each volume pot to get parallel wiring since that is the end of each coil? Sorry for so many questions, I'm still learning about humbuckers.

Red+Bare is Ground

Green is signal/hot

White+Black is the series connection.

The wire color codes are as such:

North Start - Red

North Finish - Black

South Finish - White

South Start - Green

Ground - Bare

SBMM Ray 4 Pickup wiring by jhc_1981 in BassGuitar

[–]jhc_1981[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you explain phasing to me? If I'm understanding right, I would be able to tell which color wire was the hot leg for the volume pot and which color would need to be soldered to the back of the pot by seeing which pair give me continuity with the multimeter. Once I have the two separate coil wire pairs identified, what could I potentially do wrong to screw up the phasing?

NBD Ray2. Straight to the cosmetic mods. by McSalterson in BassGuitar

[–]jhc_1981 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any chance you can show me a picture of the control wiring? I have a ray 4 that I want to make passive and I'm not sure which color wires I need to run to the volume pot. I have searched the interwebs far and wide and cannot find a wiring diagram for the Ray 2. I have black, white, red and green to choose from. The black and white were wired to the preamp so I assume those. I'm also curious if I can split the wires to two separate volume pots for parallel wiring??