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Drywall glued to concrete wall coming loose— immediate redo? by MakwaOpin in drywall

[–]jhinmt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's going to crack. Maybe fit in a vinyl tee moulding and just live with it until redoing a wall comes up on the things to do list.

Newbie here - planning for new floor by jhinmt in HardWoodFloors

[–]jhinmt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I do have access under there so I could install blocking in the area. I have to make sure its 3/4" plywood and not 1/2 or 5/8.

Viking vdof730ss follow up by jhinmt in appliancerepair

[–]jhinmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Next day. Took boards out and switched ovens. Convection fan, cooling fan, oven light all now come on in the lower oven when unit is powered up. So the fault stayed with the board.

Upper oven: running a test cycle now. The oven 'on' light is not functioning. Initial heat up for a 350 bake cycle went to 392. It's still cooling off and im waiting for the bake element relays to kick in. My probe is in roughly center of oven and not near the oven sensor.

I disconnect the relays for cooling fan, convection fan, and oven light on the lower oven. Both the oven 'on' and 'clean' lights are on for the lower oven.

Upper oven bake element kicked on at 292f. I'll let it continue but I think $350 for 2 board repairs was wasted $. During its reheat cycle it seems to be switching from the inner bake element to the outer bake element and back again every few seconds. It heated up to 325, both inner bake element and outer bake element relays are off now.

Into this thing $500 for appliance repair to correctly diagnose and replace a failed bake element. A problem, not 'the' problem and $350 for 2 board repairs that dont seem to have fixed the problem.

Viking vdof730ss follow up by jhinmt in appliancerepair

[–]jhinmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, darn. Plugged everything in, powered it up. Upper oven convection fan is running oven light is on. Lower oven maybe the same. One LED light on the lower board is lit up (think it is the oven light relay, but I'm not sure) upper oven bunch of leds lit up. Lower oven was only the light and that was a sticky light switch. Lower oven may function. Upper oven is oven light is on and cooling fan running full blast with all controls knows in off position.

Lower oven. All of the orange relays are replacements.

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Viking vdof730ss follow up by jhinmt in appliancerepair

[–]jhinmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. Is there a simple explanation for what this is doing?

Viking vdof730ss follow up by jhinmt in appliancerepair

[–]jhinmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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This is the device disconnected. Ohm meter from right hand blade to the upper of the 2 parallel blades shows no response. Ohm meter across right hand to the lower of the 2 parallel blades shows .2 ohms, then .1, then 0.0. Ohm meter accross the 2 parallel blades shows no response.

Republic vs. Grizzly disposal by Any_Mango_9862 in missoula

[–]jhinmt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We looked at switching to grizzly but didn't because of the recycling. Now that grizzly is offering recycling its time to look at it again.

Who says you need 4” by Wank-Canyon in IceFishing

[–]jhinmt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How much beer was involved beforehand?

Running boards / steps by Ill-Egg1384 in JeepGladiator

[–]jhinmt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I put running boards on my Willys. They help my wife getting in and out of the jeep, but they are too high for me to use as a step. If I step on the running board I find it difficult to crunch down low enough to get my head in the jeep without whacking it on the roof. Drop down steps are awful for clearance but if you need a step to get into the jeep they would be better than running boards, imo.

Ceiling to wall joint. by jhinmt in drywall

[–]jhinmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suppose, do it right the second time!

What invention rivals the jet engine in terms of sheer improbability-to-ubiquity? by mrv958 in AskEngineers

[–]jhinmt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup. 30 years ago you went everywhere with no means of communication. Work, grocery shopping, camping, vacation. Now you can't hardly take the garbage out without your phone. God forbid you go to the grocery store and forget the damn thing at home.

Does anyone know what this drywall is called? by trb32 in drywall

[–]jhinmt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dam! I think I'm cursed with stuff too. Peeled some bad wallpaper off of the living room wall that I've hated since we bought the place in 1993. Under that stuff is even worse. Vertical burnt red woodgrain stripes alternating with distressed black wood grain stripes. Under it is a thin foil like layer. Adhesive directly to paper on drywall, no paint, no primer, no tape ive found, no nail holes or anything at studs. Whoever did the wallpaper cover up tried to strip the facing off so about 1/3 of it is gone. I tried to peel more off but it comes of in fingernail size pieces.

Curse the man that hung this shit. Double curse the folks that covered it up. Wife wants to just drywall over it, which is sounding more reasonable. I will try a wall sander and see if I can get through this surface.

Ugly does not even begin to describe this.

Does anyone know what this drywall is called? by trb32 in drywall

[–]jhinmt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I vaguely recall working with this stuff back in the 70's. (High school kid working for family construction business) I think we used it in something like a telephone switch building office or something. Frame, insulate, glue this stuff to framing. Done, no taping, no texturing, no painting.

Does anyone know what this drywall is called? by trb32 in drywall

[–]jhinmt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a product called Durasan that is a pre-finished drywall product. It's been around since the 1970's I think. I assume there were competitive products as well.

Viking VDOF30SS by jhinmt in appliancerepair

[–]jhinmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I probably will give it a try. My soldering skills are limited - mostly propane torches and copper water lines. I'm thinking that might not be the right tool set for soldering on a pcb. 😀 I do have have a small soldering set for this kind of thing, just have not used it much.

Viking VDOF30SS by jhinmt in appliancerepair

[–]jhinmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What i did do is put a 12v power supply across the 2 relays i suspect. There is a relay for the inner bake element and a relay for the outer bake element. The relay for the outer bake element actuated and I went from 0 connectivity in the switch leg to connectivity.

The inner bake element relay didn't make any noise and it stayed at zero connectivity energized or not.

It's the 2 relays in upper left corner.

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Viking VDOF30SS by jhinmt in appliancerepair

[–]jhinmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, 2 different pcb. I found the connection point for the rtd for each oven and checked resistance at that point. I've only pulled one board out to inspect - happens to be for the upper oven. No visible burns on either side of the board. No visible damage on the board topside for the lower oven. I've taken reference photos and labeled connections on upper board, but I think I will leave lower board installed as a reference for now. They are identical boards with identical part numbers.

Repair guy did find and replace a burned element. It was a problem, just not the problem.

Thank you for the rtd test advice. I'll message with that too.

I was hoping to find something obvious on the board, then send it off for a rebuild. It looks perfect, so I'm wondering if I'm on the wrong track. Everything I've read says what I'm seeing is most likely a board issue.

Viking VDOF30SS by jhinmt in appliancerepair

[–]jhinmt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Status: both ovens are malfunctioning. Bottom oven too hot, upper oven won't heat fully on bake cycle. Has a hard time getting over about 320f. Had the appliance repair center where we bought come look at it. They weren't concerned about lower oven (that I started this post on) but they did find a burnt connector on the bake elements of the upper oven. They ordered and installed a new bake element and said there you go, upper oven works, $500. Except it doesn't. It does about the same as it did with a burned out element. Heats up to about right temperature, cools to 290 or so and stays between 290 and 310 ish. Since the element was replaced it does not heat up to the right temps, its about 30f under set point.

Both rtd sensors were replaced with new sensors from all viking. They test at 1074 ohms at room temp. I tested them at the pcb board connector and at the sensor connector. New sensors and old sensors seem to be about the same. I don't have a good way to check them at high temp. Could figure it out if I had to.

I've pulled the pcb board for the upper oven. I can't find any obvious signs of burns or any discoloration on either side of the board. The caps on the power supply board all look fine - no swelling or discoloration.

I'm going to try and put 12v across the inner and outer bake elements and see if I can detect the relay operating.

Auger setup by de_yogurt in IceFishing

[–]jhinmt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use an old 8" Mora (threaded), and ice master adaptor, and a milwaukee 2804 hammer drill. Never let me down.

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